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Three different issues, opinions welcome

DieselAmateur said:
I don't know if it would be worth drilling & tapping for slightly larger bolt and how that would play with the starer fitment
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I believe that’s what someone’s has already done here. The threads in the holes look fine, so I guess I could just put the old bolts (or new ones the same size) back in and hope for the best, and order up some Nordlocks for peace of mind. It might be an okay setup once I put the rear bracket on the starter, it having been MIA was probably mostly the reason this setup came loose in the first place. That and the STACKS of washers they put on, sheesh.
 
Not many options, and none that are fun for sure.

First is use what came out and cross your fingers. If the diameter is too big for the new starters- I would not drill the starter. I have in the past mind you, so experience talking to that.

Next is Restoring it by welding, drilling tapping is just not worth it imo until there is a major failure.

The best imo but is half as much works as the welding: custom studs machined to fit perfect.
With no starter, hand screw the bigger bolt in and make sure the threads can NOT bottom out. If it does, mark the thread and remove to the vice. Spin on a nut, cut the threads to proper length then spinning off the nut with a wrench fixes the cut thread. Then tiny ignition files to fit the threads perfect. Know to do this, but don’t do it till you determine next step...

Next is determine if they drilled the old starter holes to handle bigger diameter bolt.
If they did, then I would get longer bolts with long enough shanks that you can turn the bolt in a lathe and turn it down to the proper diameter. That clearance is kinda important to keep from breaking things or letting the starter move under load. Then cut the head off and thread the end so it is now a stud with shank in the middle. Make the threaded end about 1.25” and cut a notch in it where a standard screwdriver can install/ remove it. If you have access to doing a cut for Allen wrench in it or ignition wrench around it, that would be better. You do not want any of the cut away material within a couple threads of the nut once seated. Use loctite 222 on the stud that goes into the block. It is high temp but low strength. So you can remove it easy if needed but it won’t back out. Do not Torque the studs into the block, they just go in then back out 1/8 turn.

Then use the nordlocks and a nut on it.

If you have to put starter in first then studs- some kind of flat 1” tie down strap from above to hold it while fiddling around is how we did yellow iron starters often.

Oh yeah- those studs dont need to be grade 8. Grade 5 is plenty.
The all thread idea turns out bad later. I’ve done that too. The threads dig into the inside bore of the aluminum starter head housing and allows tooth mis alignment and wrecks the start head.
 
Will L. said:
Not many options, and none that are fun for sure.

First is use what came out and cross your fingers. If the diameter is too big for the new starters- I would not drill the starter. I have in the past mind you, so experience talking to that.

Next is Restoring it by welding, drilling tapping is just not worth it imo until there is a major failure.

The best imo but is half as much works as the welding: custom studs machined to fit perfect.
With no starter, hand screw the bigger bolt in and make sure the threads can NOT bottom out. If it does, mark the thread and remove to the vice. Spin on a nut, cut the threads to proper length then spinning off the nut with a wrench fixes the cut thread. Then tiny ignition files to fit the threads perfect. Know to do this, but don’t do it till you determine next step...

Next is determine if they drilled the old starter holes to handle bigger diameter bolt.
If they did, then I would get longer bolts with long enough shanks that you can turn the bolt in a lathe and turn it down to the proper diameter. That clearance is kinda important to keep from breaking things or letting the starter move under load. Then cut the head off and thread the end so it is now a stud with shank in the middle. Make the threaded end about 1.25” and cut a notch in it where a standard screwdriver can install/ remove it. If you have access to doing a cut for Allen wrench in it or ignition wrench around it, that would be better. You do not want any of the cut away material within a couple threads of the nut once seated. Use loctite 222 on the stud that goes into the block. It is high temp but low strength. So you can remove it easy if needed but it won’t back out. Do not Torque the studs into the block, they just go in then back out 1/8 turn.

Then use the nordlocks and a nut on it.

If you have to put starter in first then studs- some kind of flat 1” tie down strap from above to hold it while fiddling around is how we did yellow iron starters often.

Oh yeah- those studs dont need to be grade 8. Grade 5 is plenty.
The all thread idea turns out bad later. I’ve done that too. The threads dig into the inside bore of the aluminum starter head housing and allows tooth mis alignment and wrecks the start head.
Click to expand...
I have a feeling the starter holes have been drilled out, they would be way too big for the new factory bolts.
And I’m not putting a new starter on it btw, I realize it would be nice to throw a new one on since I’ve gone through all this trouble already but this one has been working fine and I can’t spend that kind of money on this truck right now. So wouldn’t have to turn anything down until this starter craps out, then I’ll have to do the studs I guess.
Is there really an advantage to using studs vs bolts in this application? If using Nordlocks it shouldn’t make a difference right?
 
After thinking about it I bet the starter would be difficult if not impossible to put in with studs. Your best bet would be to make some custom inserts to make the holes the proper size for the OEM bolts. If the bolt is enough bigger you could machine an insert from it.
 
ak diesel driver said:
After thinking about it I bet the starter would be difficult if not impossible to put in with studs. Your best bet would be to make some custom inserts to make the holes the proper size for the OEM bolts. If the bolt is enough bigger you could machine an insert from it.
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Yeah except the holes in the block are still too big for the stock bolts. Maybe I could throw some Timeserts in there. Trouble with all this is that it just makes more sets of threads, and therefore greater chances of something loosening up... hmm.

I’m kinda leaning towards just using the current size bolts, (new ones, but same bigger size) and try to track down some Nordlocks to fit them. Seems that may be the simplest at this point. Ha. Providing I can even find Nordlocks anywhere nearby. That’ll probably be the hardest part I’m afraid.
 
ak diesel driver said:
Timeserts are an insert ,I'd consider putting them in with the green threadlocker. Nordlocks won't do any good if the insert backs out
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Ohh, I misunderstood, I thought you meant put an insert/bushing in the holes on the STARTER, so the stock bolts would fit the bigger holes and not be too sloppy. I realize now you were talking about the holes in the block, sorry for any confusion.
 
Definitely slide under with the starter and try is studs would work. I really can’t remember it they would. I am thinking with an automatic trans it has the tin rock cover that comes off... that would allow studs. But a bellhousing of manual, I doubt it.
 
Will L. said:
Definitely slide under with the starter and try is studs would work. I really can’t remember it they would. I am thinking with an automatic trans it has the tin rock cover that comes off... that would allow studs. But a bellhousing of manual, I doubt it.
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Pretty sure it won’t work, have to slide the starter forward several inches to get it out of the bellhousing.
 
J_dude said:
I can’t spend that kind of money on this truck right now.
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What, exactly, do you expect this truck to do? Why do you need it?

I suggest you either sell it or part it out. It's a 1996 and going to be a parts black hole. Every Single Suggestion* to the FUBAR starter mount is a band-aid that going to toss the 10HP starter off the engine without engine start leaving you stranded eventually. Anything short of a proper repair attempt can snap the block corner clean off. Good luck getting the holes fixed to hold the starter in proper alignment: not said the alignment is CRITICAL. This is why GM has special bolts.

*IMO you have ruled out suggestions that are expensive and the ROI and RISK is your call.

Aside of you need a engine to properly fix the starter it has other critical expensive problems. How do you feel about doing the damned job over and over because krap cheap parts thrown at it that fail over and over? You can not get good parts for some things anymore. Ask me how many sub standard half shafts puked the grease from rubber boots vs. what GM used. Not a fun job to do over even with warranty on parts.

All I am saying is get the best parts you can so you don't have to do the job over. Maybe a towing plan like AAA etc.

I will suggest you simply drop a 350 gas in it if the truck body etc. is any good. It will be cheaper than keeping a throwaway 6.5L Diesel running that needs extensive repair or replacement. Unless you spend serious cash on a new longblock 6.5 to drop in. Not much used available that's any good anymore.

If you don't have a need to patch it to get by: don't. Wait until you can afford a proper repair and/or a better vehicle.
 
Ok, understand I’m not trying to cheap out and avoid fixing a good vehicle. I’m not against putting money into worthwhile vehicles. I have a 500hp Cummins in my Dodge that I built just because I wanted to. But the story on this truck is, it’s just a stand-in until I get my Dodge back together (fixing oil leaks on it and checking KDP). I really only drive back roads to work and back with the 6.5. (Keep in mind I live in the middle of absolutely nowhere, the nearest traffic light is over an hour away in any direction.)
I like the truck but it’s not worth anything really, I paid my brother $500 for it. I got it because I needed a truck, as my dodge is down, and I don’t want to drive my Jetta on gravel roads.
It has over 570k kilometres on it.
It has pretty bad blow by, but starts good when plugged in.
It leaks oil, and some coolant.
Also has a bad PS leak from the hydroboost.
The rear diff is, well, I’m not sure, last time I drained it there was pieces of roller bearing from the spider gears rolling around in the bottom.
I’ve hit four deer with it, not bad hits, but still didn’t help anything cosmetically.
She’s covered in dents, scratches and body rust.
Other than that it’s a solid truck 🤣
I don’t expect much from it, but it’s only a “gravel roads” or “going fence fixing in the pasture” sort of truck. That and it’s the only truck I’ll let myself put stacks on 😂 so I sort of want to keep it alive still.
That’s all.
 
Yeah, it’s not looking good for a great fix on that. Went and stared at my block- and think since you are honestly close to engine death on this one from being worn out,
I would drill the starter and use the existing oversized bolts.
If you don’t already have the new starter- still get the Powermaster 9052. The much faster cranking speed will help the starting situation. If later you do a new 6.5 or sell the starter later- it can be sent back to them for a rebuild and have the head replaced for new one with proper sized holes.

Have you added “Restore” treatment to it? If not, do it. It is same price as oil, and proven in all kinds of tests to work. 6.5 get blow by from overheated and worn rings, and normal cylinder wear and cylinder scratches. Restore helps with worn rings, worn cylinder and scratched cylinders. Normally just 1 bottle, but on the 6.5 I seen results doing 1 bottle, then next oil change doing another bottle.
 
Will L. said:
Have you added “Restore” treatment to it? If not, do it. It is same price as oil, and proven in all kinds of tests to work. 6.5 get blow by from overheated and worn rings, and normal cylinder wear and cylinder scratches. Restore helps with worn rings, worn cylinder and scratched cylinders. Normally just 1 bottle, but on the 6.5 I seen results doing 1 bottle, then next oil change doing another bottle.
Click to expand...
Oooh, hadn’t heard of that stuff, I’ll maybe do that just fer giggles
 
J_dude said:
Oh and it also has intermittent heat soak/hot start issues in the summer, have to pour a bottle of cool water over the IP sometimes 😂
Click to expand...
Low inlet fuel pressure is biggest cause of wearing out like that. Head and rotor are shot so that is a no-rebuild scenario. But bumping pressure helps. So that 5-8 psi for db2 up to 10 and the ds4 8-14 range getting bumped to 16 helps the hot start a little. It is beating up the ip a bit, but at this point- meh...
 
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