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Brake Lines - Buy Them or Bend Them?

minisub

minisub

6-5/6-6;Whatever It Takes
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The Northcoast, Ohio
Ok, how about a quasi - technical thread...:smilewinkgrin:

And let's see if this is a one-size-fits-all 6.5 forum...:)

About 3 weeks ago, someone pulled out in front of me in the parking garage and I had to slam the brakes on hard. After 14 Ohio winters, that was all the front brake lines could take and one of them burst. :( I used the e-brake to get myself parked in a spot and called for a tow...

I am going to replace all of the lines now, not just the one that burst as the others can't be far behind.

Anyone have any words of advice?

I found something called Cunifer brake line from an outfit called Federal Trading Company. It is a copper nickel alloy that is supposed to bend easy and never rust. I can double flare lines and do have a tubing bender. It looks like I can get what I need for maybe $100-$150 in parts.

Am I nuts for thinking I can bend up both sets of front lines? Should I just hit the dealer or a parts house and see if I can get pre-bent? How much stuff am I going to have to take off to do this? It looks like the front passenger line heads down under the fan shroud....:pissed:
 
My Advice The ones that have all the coils coming off the ABS unit buy from GM. wasn't that bad. The rest autoparts store. That's what I did on mine. Same deal, mine popped and I said screw it and changed the rest . I tow a heavy camper.
 
i had to replace my rear brake line from the ABS unit about 1/2 way back when it blew out. i just bent it with a tubing bender including the coils. don't skip those coils, they are there to take vibrations and body flex so the lines don't crack.
 
Minisub,

I have bent my own replacements that got gacked by a rock out here in the Nevada desert. Everything has been fine for over 2 years, and I used to tow a Case Construction King on a triple axle trailer!
 
Cant get GM lines for the rear axle, at least not on my 1991 1/2 ton in sig. dealer said to go to the auto parts store and get a set bent.
 
I always bend my own lines. No problems yet.

I am looking into upgrading to stainless steel lines... Mine rust out every three or four years here in MI.
 
I see no problem bending your own. Just be careful when double flaring, when we were doing them on one of our vehicles when I was a kid my Dad broke the double flare unit off inside the line.
 
Scrufdog said:
bend them yourself, just include all the bends and loops
Click to expand...

The hell with that; I am going from the ABS unit OVER the engine to passenger side. I mean if you can stick an I/C on top of the engine, I can run a brake line there, right? ;) :D

Seriously, thanks everyone for the input; I think I am going to order some of that Federal Hill line and get busy...

Driving the CC/SB Sierra to work everyday to my 6th floor parking garage spot is getting old...:lol:
 
To make the coils, I use the handle to a large hammer or something and bend the line around it, comes out good and ive done it many times, no problems yet :)
 
minisub said:
The hell with that; I am going from the ABS unit OVER the engine to passenger side. I mean if you can stick an I/C on top of the engine, I can run a brake line there, right? ;) :D

Seriously, thanks everyone for the input; I think I am going to order some of that Federal Hill line and get busy...

Driving the CC/SB Sierra to work everyday to my 6th floor parking garage spot is getting old...:lol:
Click to expand...

Actually Tom, I'll let you in on a little secret. Run the new steel lines through the arms of the exhaust manifold for increased braking. You see, the extra heat is GREAT for brake lines, boiling brake fluid is awesome. Also, replace the rubber lines with coolant hose. It will give you that extra special feeling in the brake pedal.

:D
 
Scrufdog said:
Actually Tom, I'll let you in on a little secret. Run the new steel lines through the arms of the exhaust manifold for increased braking. You see, the extra heat is GREAT for brake lines, boiling brake fluid is awesome. Also, replace the rubber lines with coolant hose. It will give you that extra special feeling in the brake pedal.

:D
Click to expand...

:biggrin5::D
 
Scrufdog said:
Actually Tom, I'll let you in on a little secret. Run the new steel lines through the arms of the exhaust manifold for increased braking. You see, the extra heat is GREAT for brake lines, boiling brake fluid is awesome. Also, replace the rubber lines with coolant hose. It will give you that extra special feeling in the brake pedal.

:D
Click to expand...

Bad dog, Bad!

Some newbies might take you seriously!

Bad!

Rob :)
 
Scrufdog said:
Actually Tom, I'll let you in on a little secret. Run the new steel lines through the arms of the exhaust manifold for increased braking. You see, the extra heat is GREAT for brake lines, boiling brake fluid is awesome. Also, replace the rubber lines with coolant hose. It will give you that extra special feeling in the brake pedal.

:D
Click to expand...

Brilliant!

I can use the cross-over pipe as a conduit. Since I think there is a hole in that too, I won't even need to drill a hole...:ihih:

Do you think that those water supply lines with the fake stainless braiding at the home center would give me a better "special feel" than coolant hose? :crazy:
 
I don't know if you have made a decision yet, but ClassicTube has a full stainless kit for the 95 Tahoe for about $220. That is the route I would go.
 
For $220, I'd get a double flaring tool, tubing, fittings, and do it myself. Then spend the $150ish left on beer or something.

Why go stainless? Regular steel will outlast 99% of the truck if it is a 95.
 
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