Is This Normal? Intake Removed.......

[deejaaa]

this is a continued chapter from this saga:
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sh...-Leroy-PMDCABLE-for-the-fuel-pressure-fitting
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removed the intake and saw this:

they were in the loom that runs through the valley. this was after the loom was removed.
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can make out the fuel in the valley:

soaking it up with towels. all lines will be replaced, IP screen will be cleaned and guess i'll get to the wires. why would they short out?? getting bathed in fuel?
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Thanx DexCool for the lovely corrosion:

 

[NVW]

A wire must have shorted and caused a small fire. I don't know if the diesel would harden the wires but they look brittle.

 

[Crankme69]

Nasty, did the vehicle set for a while? Maybe the handy work of a rodent?

 

[NVW]

Thinking about the diesel and electrical wires, my Fordson tractor fuel tank leaks and the wires do seem to be more brittle where they are fuel soaked.

 

[Mike K3500]

Definitely NOT normal if that was a serious question... I would get a different harness and replace it. And I would do a thorough cooling system flush and replace with green coolant and purified water.

 

[deejaaa]

Definitely NOT normal if that was a serious question... I would get a different harness and replace it. And I would do a thorough cooling system flush and replace with green coolant and purified water.

yes, it was serious. will flush/refill with green.

 

[great white]

Looks like a fire, as mentioned.

I would say it (luckily) burned itself out.....

 

[bison]

I have so the feeling it wouldn't start anymore.

 

[deejaaa]

I have so the feeling it wouldn't start anymore.

CORRECT. stalled half in the street, other in the driveway. had to push it back.
don't think rodents did this, was way too fuel soaked to allow them any kind of home. it was also still in the loom.
i will know tomorrow if the wires are hardened from the fuel. i am going to splice, crimp, shrink tube them back. then i will run them outside the intake, not under it.
i think i am VERY lucky it burned itself out. my extinguisher is out and don"t have a spare. it was a large carbon dioxide type.

 

[Big T]

Definitely NOT normal if that was a serious question... I would get a different harness and replace it. And I would do a thorough cooling system flush and replace with green coolant and purified water.

I thought you had to use the DexCool (orange) on later model engines. For example the manual says to use it on my '99. Should I replace it with the green?

 

[L98TPI]

The orange stuff was/is a plague. My former neighbor was a dealer service manager and had horror story after horror story of where dexcool did not live up to its hype and corroded cooling systems till they failed and often took out the engines. In fact that is what I suspected happened to my Sub. With cooling system loss the state employee numbskulls kept driving and cracked the hell out of the heads. Go to the green and change it every other year or so. It has a proven track record.

 

[DennisG01]

For what it's worth, in regards to the Dexcool, that's all that has ever been used in my engine and it's doing well. Although, I do make sure to replace the fluid every 3 to 5 years.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

The orange stuff was/is a plague. My former neighbor was a dealer service manager and had horror story after horror story of where dexcool did not live up to its hype and corroded cooling systems till they failed and often took out the engines. In fact that is what I suspected happened to my Sub. With cooling system loss the state employee numbskulls kept driving and cracked the hell out of the heads. Go to the green and change it every other year or so. It has a proven track record.

You should not generalize all DEX COOL together as there has been about 3 differrent versions of it that I know of. There was teh initail release in 96, a reforumulation around 98 or 99 after the initial problems, and another around 01 or so. Another HUGE problem with DEX COOL is it has the coolant sealant built into it and is activated by air. This is why GM went to the later closed cooling systems with a pressure tank instead of having teh conventional system with a coolant reservoir and a radiator cap. And up till about 00 the O-rings that were avaialble were not compatible with DEX-COOL even though GM specified they needed compatible O-rings. It was such a new product, that unfortunately the long term testing had to be done in the field by the consumer. I know I'm running DEX-COOL in my BURB, and so far it has been great. And most everybody with a DURAMAX has not had a single problem with corrosion, and this is in an engine with very disimliar metals in it. Unfortunately people are still stuck on the down sides of DEX-COOL from the late 90's, sort of like how everybody says a 6.5 is a crank breaking, injector pump eating boat anchor. it doesn't mean it's true, but people still say it.

 

[Big T]

You should not generalize all DEX COOL together as there has been about 3 differrent versions of it that I know of. There was teh initail release in 96, a reforumulation around 98 or 99 after the initial problems, and another around 01 or so. Another HUGE problem with DEX COOL is it has the coolant sealant built into it and is activated by air. This is why GM went to the later closed cooling systems with a pressure tank instead of having teh conventional system with a coolant reservoir and a radiator cap. And up till about 00 the O-rings that were avaialble were not compatible with DEX-COOL even though GM specified they needed compatible O-rings. It was such a new product, that unfortunately the long term testing had to be done in the field by the consumer. I know I'm running DEX-COOL in my BURB, and so far it has been great. And most everybody with a DURAMAX has not had a single problem with corrosion, and this is in an engine with very disimliar metals in it. Unfortunately people are still stuck on the down sides of DEX-COOL from the late 90's, sort of like how everybody says a 6.5 is a crank breaking, injector pump eating boat anchor. it doesn't mean it's true, but people still say it.

I thought they specified DEX-COOL because it's low silicate or phosporous which is what's compatible with the cooling system?

Here's what Wikipedia had to say:


Organic acid technologyCertain cars are built with organic acid technology (OAT) antifreeze (e.g., DEX-COOL[15]), or with a hybrid organic acid technology (HOAT) formulation (e.g., Zerex G-05[16]), both of which are claimed to have an extended service life of five years or 240,000 km (150,000 mi).

DEX-COOL specifically has caused controversy. Litigation has linked it with intake manifold gasket failures in General Motors' (GM's) 3.1L and 3.4L engines, and with other failures in 3.8L and 4.3L engines. Class action lawsuits were registered in several states, and in Canada, to address some of these claims. The first of these to reach a decision was in Missouri where a settlement was announced early in December 2007.[17] Late in March 2008, GM agreed to compensate complainants in the remaining 49 states.[18] GM (Motors Liquidation Company) filed for bankruptcy in 2009, which tied up the outstanding claims until a court determines who gets paid.[19]

According to the DEX-COOL manufacturer, "mixing a 'green' [non-OAT] coolant with DEX-COOL reduces the batch's change interval to 2 years or 30,000 miles, but will otherwise cause no damage to the engine."[20] DEX-COOL antifreeze uses two inhibitors: sebacate and 2-EHA (2-ethylhexanoic acid), the latter which works well with the hard water found in the US, but is a plasticizer which can cause gaskets to leak.[14]

According to internal GM documents,[citation needed] the ultimate culprit appears to be operating vehicles for long periods of time with low coolant levels. The low coolant is caused by pressure caps that fail in the open position. (The new caps and recovery bottles were introduced at the same time as DEX-COOL). This exposes hot engine components to air and vapors, causing corrosion and contamination of the coolant with iron oxide particles, which in turn can aggravate the pressure cap problem as contamination holds the caps open permanently.[21]

Honda and Toyota's new extended life coolant use OAT with sebacate but without the 2-EHA. Some added phosphates provide protection while the OAT builds up.[14] Honda specifically excludes 2-EHA from their formulas.

Typically OAT antifreeze contains an orange dye to differentiate it from the conventional glycol-based coolants (green or yellow). Some of the newer OAT coolants claim to be compatible with all types of OAT and glycol-based coolants; these are typically green or yellow in color (for a table of colors, see [13])

 

[L98TPI]

You should not generalize all DEX COOL together as there has been about 3 differrent versions of it that I know of. ....... Unfortunately people are still stuck on the down sides of DEX-COOL from the late 90's, sort of like how everybody says a 6.5 is a crank breaking, injector pump eating boat anchor. it doesn't mean it's true, but people still say it.

Your point is-ah well seen.
My guys experience is from that era of "bad" dexcool. My truck is a 96. So there ya go. I sorta like a long lived anti freeze but I will avoid the Dexcool stuff, plenty of other brands/formulations out there. I guess if they changed the name of Dexcool or said in any official way that they fixed it that would be tantamount to an admission of the millions of dollars of losses it caused. And the lawyer buzzards would be circling. :hihi:

 

[Brooklyn Tow]

Just another one of those things......a debate that won't end.....some hate Dex-cool and others swear it's the best thing since sliced bread.


If you use it, just make sure your cooling system is 100%......No leaks.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Dex-cool needs to be kept pure as tap water and high mineral contents will cause it to activate the sealant and make a nasty mud in the cooling system. It's funny to here some people say DEX-COOL is crap, and in the next breath say how great the CATERPILLAR anti-freeze is. Truth be told, the only real differrence between them is the color of the dye in them. Yet people say DEX-COOL is horrible, and the CAT ELF is great. Yes there were problems early on as there really wasn't any long term testing done as to effects of saturation over time on gaskets and o-rings. The new stuff is pretty good stuff, and I see no problem using it. The only ones I reccomend staying away from is the PRESTONE universal crap.

 

[Mike K3500]

My experiences with dex-cool, is plastic / composite components in the cooling system becoming very brittle and failing, intake gaskets deteriorating and failing... I would never run it anything, especially the older stuff I drive.

 

[great white]

Been running dexcool for the better part of the year now.

No issues.

Ran it in the 599 block before the optimizer.

No issues there either.

Iirc, the intake gasket failures were on an older GM v6 (3.4? Can't remember) when dexcool first came out and was caused by an incompatibility in the gasket with the dexcool. Not the fault of the coolant, GM's fault for putting it out the door that way. Once gaskets were changed, problem went away.

Of course, memory isn't quite what it used to be so some of those details could be wrong...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[L98TPI]

My experiences with Dex-cool, is plastic / composite components in the cooling system becoming very brittle and failing, intake gaskets deteriorating and failing... I would never run it anything, especially the older stuff I drive.

YES! Our 96 Buick Roadmaster Wagon came with Dexcool and the father in law when he got it in about 05 had it flushed and the regular stuff put in. about a year later it blew out that plastic tee / restrictor heater hose header tank manifold that the LT type engines have. It would crumble in your fingers when I took it off. My service manager neighbor pointed out one of the big issues they had was Dexcool eating those QD connectors in the heater circuit and failing suddenly.
How long was the initial change interval for Dex-cool? Like 7 years? The whole warranty period? :skep: