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IGN Module or Starter Solonoid /lead?

Matt Bachand

Matt Bachand

Depends on the 6.5
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Worcester, MA
Cooler morning reeking havoc on me... and i know it wont get better on its own.......................


Turn the key, WTS, go to crank, no crank. Tried a few times, and it cranked.

Did this yesterday morning too.

I know it will eventually leave me screwed, so question is.............


My IGN Module is probably 2 1/2 years old (non Delco).... Starter is about 4 months old.....


Once she's all warm appears to start no problem multiple times.


IF its doing it now when its 50-60 outside in the morning, I can expect certain failure soon.

How can I find out what it is, when the only time I can diagnose the issue seems to be at 5:30AM by myself???

Thanks guys.
 
Starter is about 4 months old.....
Click to expand...

Someone said......when a new problem occurs.......check the last thing you fixed.

Only makes sense to start with the starter solenoid wiring.....maybe a connection worked loose.

Then go from there.
 
The solenoids on these rigs draw a lot of current.

Does the rig have an alarm system with an ignition interlock???

Try jumping the solenoid terminal directly to the large stud on the starter.
If the issue goes away then the problem is the power flow to the solenoid.

The contacts in the ignition switch are not nearly large enough to handle the starter solenoid load for many many years.

You may have an ignition switch thats failing.

I have wired the solenoid wire to run a starter relay (FORD TYPE) and then power the solenoid from the relay.
This takes the heavy load off the ign switch.
Very basic wiring problem that can be done in less than an hour.
Bolt the relay to the RH inner fender and pull power straight off the battery + on the same side.

Run the solenoid feed wire (from ign switch) to power the relay and then run the other side of the heavy relay terminal back down to the starter solenoid.

Be sure the relay itself is grounded good, if need be run a ground to the engine from the bolt used to fasten the relay to the fender.

Use number 10 wire to feed the solenoid.

As mentioned, check the connections on the starter first though.

Could be a bad solenoid.

Rebuilt stuff fails far too often.

MGW
 
Well, I have huge internet issues of late... no DSL at evening, only early morning....

Didn't start yesterday on the way home, then I hit the steering column and it cranked....

I think it's the IGN switch myself... I don't want to be stranded.... nor miss a day of work..........

I'm so busy this week with work I leave at dark and come home at dark (to no internet)... I'm beat... Just hope it makes it to the weekend...

Anyone have service data for accessing the IGN switch? I know its a a PITA...


Robyn, what draw are you saying runs through the IGN switch? the starter solonoid? IS it really that much of a draw to warrant another solonoid?
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
Someone said......when a new problem occurs.......check the last thing you fixed.

Only makes sense to start with the starter solenoid wiring.....maybe a connection worked loose.

Then go from there.
Click to expand...

I agree here Louis.... I also had to cut that wire and re-connect a eye connector to it as rusty busty salty allowed the old starter solonoid lead to snap the stud instead of unscrew that little bolt.... I'm sure I used a butt connector and I've had horrible luck with those with all my lights....


It started this morning without incident, so at least I can make money. Hopefully It will start tonight on the way home, else I'll be under the rig at a customers house, something I've never had to do yet....................
 
Which IGN switch listed do you think is the one I need? why is there an option for 15,000 GVW switch? WHy different?
Click to expand...

They look like two different setups check the pics......15000 GVW is only the HD (I think)....Your a 3500 DRW non HD, Whats your GVW?
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
They look like two different setups check the pics......15000 GVW is only the HD (I think)....Your a 3500 DRW non HD, Whats your GVW?
Click to expand...

I think 14000, I am defanately NON HD. All HD's are 2wd w/front leaf springs, that 4" lift with the fugly grille.... Now one of those with a solid front axle..............


Surprised they have different ignition switches though.
 
That little wire you are talking about went bad on my truck, I had the same intermittent starting problem as you describe. I'd look closely at all your connections, and don't forget the usual loosened up battery connections.
 
Detroit Dan said:
That little wire you are talking about went bad on my truck, I had the same intermittent starting problem as you describe. I'd look closely at all your connections, and don't forget the usual loosened up battery connections.
Click to expand...

Yep, My battery connections havn't lossened up in over 2 years thanks to the Batt Bolt Mod!!!

It hasn't showed its ugly symptom the last few days,... I did crimp an eye loop on the wire, so I'm sure its the gay crimp gone bad... What do you guys recommend for this type connections? I have HORRIBLE luck with crimps.... Those blue wire tap squeeze and clip thingies outlast my crimp attempts by years........ sucks to be me to drop the starter to fix my own wiring fix.......... :mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2:

HOpefully it will last till next weekend, and I'll do my front shocks at the same time with tire off easy. Billstein's or KYB Monomax best for heavy truck with super heavy plow?
 
What do you guys recommend for this type connections? I have HORRIBLE luck with crimps....
Click to expand...

Just get a decent Crimper/Wire stripper and practice.......When you make the clean long shaped dent/crimp in the connecter, you'll know the crimp is good. (Or as good as it can be with those plastic connecters).....Maybe try your hand at soldering?
 
Yes, and that insulating material is heat-shrink w/ heat activated adhesive that really grabs onto the wire insulation to help spread wire strain.

The heat shrink also covers the end that's normally open on the cheaper terminals. So they're sealed up reasonably well.

This discussion reminds me, I also used a couple of these on the passenger side glow plug terminals. I'll take a look at them this afternoon & report back how they've held up to the heat.
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
Just get a decent Crimper/Wire stripper and practice.......When you make the clean long shaped dent/crimp in the connecter, you'll know the crimp is good. (Or as good as it can be with those plastic connecters).....Maybe try your hand at soldering?
Click to expand...

I'm decent at soldering... so crimp AND solder the end of the crimp plug?
 
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