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Zombie Solutions lift pump

Yes that is a carter lift pump. I installed many of them over the years.
They last a few years and die, slowly loosing pressure along the way after year one.

But Leroy sells the Carter with install kit for $20 less than Zombie guy who you can’t get ahold of to buy, hows that work when there is a problem?
One thing about Leroy- I can find many people besides myself that were impressed with how he took care of problems. Any business has a couple hiccups, but he answers email & the phone. He fights the mfr for you and offered money back to me as an option. Will Zombie?


On the $$-

I get buying the big full kit for a FASS is expensive .
with the water separator that stops 99.6% of the water by their own admission- no longer said to stop 100%- but still the best available anywhere at any price. Eliminating the air and being the best fuel polishing system that exists again better than anywhere regardless of price.

LIFETIME WARRANTIES so long as you verify with them it is an acceptable dealer and you register it. The complete dodge kit that does 100gpm while filtering at 20 microns and removing 99.6% of the water PER PASS and remember the system can run 100% of the time your key is on to keep cleaning it all.
Then the filters do need replacing every 30,000 miles.

If you don’t want the filter system and are ok with GM FFM Or
Keep the ffm if you want. It does go down to 5 micron NOMINAL not absolute.
And it has a fuel heater that you don’t have to buy separately like the fass. Verify the warranty is good and spend $450 on the liftpump kit without filters. $100 gets you a FAR better pump with a lifetime warranty.

The complete dodge kit (10 psi) is like $650 with hoses, filter, air removal system, etc. idk if the dodge kit works on gmt 400- but I can’t imagine Leroy couldn’t order it.


Remember that whole thing about 8-14 psi for the ds4: 10 is perfectly fine and the Fass will stay in that range for more miles than your engine lasts.


Fass was NOT created for pickups. They were made for semi trucks that run more than 10 times what pickups do. Then they just adapted that fuel pump design to fit in pickups. Thats why their filters are the size they are and not tiny like a pickup that with modern fuel should be replaced now days at 5,000 mile intervals if you are not monitoring the pressure differential through the filter to know when its done.

Rockabillyrat has set my 110cc3 db2 up to run at 10psi. So I am looking at the same units you are. And the $$$ sux. But since I don’t plan to sell it within 10 years it adds up to do it.

@ak diesel driver How many miles/years on your Raptor now and is it lifetime warranty? Do you recommend it as an option with current price at $536 for the kit with no filtering system?
Is it on/off or a continuous feed whenever key is on?
How loud is it?

(In my work truck is a fass and you can’t hear it with the dmax running)
 
Filtering point- skip if you know you aren’t adding filters.
If this is inappropriate please moderator move it to a fuel filter thread. I feel it’s appropriate because the cost becomes justified to get the better liftpump assembly for many.

I Went back and read my last book above - wanted another chapter to clarify (pun intended).
Also trying to justify the $$ I am likely to spend in my own unless I can be shown serious reason to save a couple hundred bucks.

Say you have a 25 gallon tank full of diesel and it has 1/4 gallon of water as part of it. Because you filled up 4 times for 100 gallons total. Factory ffm can stop 2 table spoons not a quart. You need 32 factory filters for that, not one filter. Which filter is more expensive long term? Which will actually stop the 3 tablespoons you really can get from 25 gallons of fuel?

Nominal means on average- these filters all are nominal rated.
If your 25 gallons goes through a 100gph pump then in one hours run time you removed 99.6% of the water. That means you now have 0.01 gallon of water in there. Unless you are getting really bad mpg, you wont burn 100 gallons per hour, so filter it again and again. How many hours of run time to burn 100 gallons?
At 60 mph burn 10 mpg in a heavy hummer or towing. 60 miles= 1 gallon per hour so 60 hours to burn 100 gallons. Better mpg means longer run time for cleaner fuel but stick with heavy towing for worst case scenario.
Your 100 gallons that includes 1 quart of water by time you burn it all is a calculation beyond most people. So lets say just 10 hours- only 1/10 of the way there is 0.000000000000003 gallons of water. How small of a drops tip is that? Any microscope under $500,000 can’t see it. For the 100 gallon math just add that many zeros time ten.
So was the Fass representative telling a lie when he said it eliminates all the water- scientifically yes- real world no.
It does remove enough the first pass if you had an actual quart of water the tank from a fill up none will get to your injectors because your ffm can then stop the rest. That much water without it will kill your ip & injectors within a month longest, could be same day.

The 20 micron fass filter (which you can later get a baldwin or other that is 10 micron easy) - maybe thats not enough for you ip?
No- remember I am chicken little and look at sky is falling scenarios.
Delco says a 5 micron NOMINAL is what they are iirc- I will be verifying that before years end unless one of you can get an email for us all first.

The ffm is filtering 100% of the junk in your tank. If you have a big honkin filter before it that is removing down to 20 microns- how much longer doesn’t your ffm filter last? Studies I read say anywhere from twice as long to twenty times as long all depending what contaminations are in your area. So again my defacto two pressure gauges to read the pressure differential. There are more accurate gauto do that better but cost hundreds of dollars to over a thousand. So adding one pressure sensor and a switch/button with 10’ more wire and doing some
12-3=time to change the filter math seems wiser to me.

Now- how much cleaner is the fuel going through the ip & injectors?
Remember that water example where I stopped at 10 instead of filling a paragraph of zeros up? Yeah…

Is it overkill for a $2000 ip and injectors plus your labor and tow bill? to spend an extra $200 or $300 and most likely never have pump problems again? Idk. Your call. I need serious convincing that it isn’t worth it.

If this were the 2005 and you could buy a used good ip for $40 at a junkyard I would say no way. But also running complete 6.5 then was $250 and they pulled it and put in your truck for you. Usually threw in a handful of extras free too.
Back in my day a nickel bought you something! Haha
 
Will L. said:
Filtering point- skip if you know you aren’t adding filters.
If this is inappropriate please moderator move it to a fuel filter thread. I feel it’s appropriate because the cost becomes justified to get the better liftpump assembly for many.

I Went back and read my last book above - wanted another chapter to clarify (pun intended).
Also trying to justify the $$ I am likely to spend in my own unless I can be shown serious reason to save a couple hundred bucks.

Say you have a 25 gallon tank full of diesel and it has 1/4 gallon of water as part of it. Because you filled up 4 times for 100 gallons total. Factory ffm can stop 2 table spoons not a quart. You need 32 factory filters for that, not one filter. Which filter is more expensive long term? Which will actually stop the 3 tablespoons you really can get from 25 gallons of fuel?

Nominal means on average- these filters all are nominal rated.
If your 25 gallons goes through a 100gph pump then in one hours run time you removed 99.6% of the water. That means you now have 0.01 gallon of water in there. Unless you are getting really bad mpg, you wont burn 100 gallons per hour, so filter it again and again. How many hours of run time to burn 100 gallons?
At 60 mph burn 10 mpg in a heavy hummer or towing. 60 miles= 1 gallon per hour so 60 hours to burn 100 gallons. Better mpg means longer run time for cleaner fuel but stick with heavy towing for worst case scenario.
Your 100 gallons that includes 1 quart of water by time you burn it all is a calculation beyond most people. So lets say just 10 hours- only 1/10 of the way there is 0.000000000000003 gallons of water. How small of a drops tip is that? Any microscope under $500,000 can’t see it. For the 100 gallon math just add that many zeros time ten.
So was the Fass representative telling a lie when he said it eliminates all the water- scientifically yes- real world no.
It does remove enough the first pass if you had an actual quart of water the tank from a fill up none will get to your injectors because your ffm can then stop the rest. That much water without it will kill your ip & injectors within a month longest, could be same day.

The 20 micron fass filter (which you can later get a baldwin or other that is 10 micron easy) - maybe thats not enough for you ip?
No- remember I am chicken little and look at sky is falling scenarios.
Delco says a 5 micron NOMINAL is what they are iirc- I will be verifying that before years end unless one of you can get an email for us all first.

The ffm is filtering 100% of the junk in your tank. If you have a big honkin filter before it that is removing down to 20 microns- how much longer doesn’t your ffm filter last? Studies I read say anywhere from twice as long to twenty times as long all depending what contaminations are in your area. So again my defacto two pressure gauges to read the pressure differential. There are more accurate gauto do that better but cost hundreds of dollars to over a thousand. So adding one pressure sensor and a switch/button with 10’ more wire and doing some
12-3=time to change the filter math seems wiser to me.

Now- how much cleaner is the fuel going through the ip & injectors?
Remember that water example where I stopped at 10 instead of filling a paragraph of zeros up? Yeah…

Is it overkill for a $2000 ip and injectors plus your labor and tow bill? to spend an extra $200 or $300 and most likely never have pump problems again? Idk. Your call. I need serious convincing that it isn’t worth it.

If this were the 2005 and you could buy a used good ip for $40 at a junkyard I would say no way. But also running complete 6.5 then was $250 and they pulled it and put in your truck for you. Usually threw in a handful of extras free too.
Back in my day a nickel bought you something! Haha
Click to expand...
I had been contemplating if I should install the FTB FFM back onto My truck just more for the fuel heater and the WIF sensor.
You nailed that decision in here for Me.
Oh yeah, I did install a Fuel pressure sender at the Raptor Air Dog, I have another installed at the IP and as I think You suggest, a switch to throw from one sender to the other and the gauge being the center position on the switch.
Now, if only I could remember where all these left overs belong and quit installing components where they dont belong, this rig would be running now. 😹😹😹1731387053981.png
 
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