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Wooden Flatbed

treegump

treegump

Romans 3:22-24
Messages
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983
Location
Martinsville, IN
Thinking of building a wooden flatbed for a 85 chevy shortbed, with stock suspension and 35's (and thinking of going to 33's if I had a chance). Also - it has a sub gas tank in the bed - that'd like to build a case for - preferably metal.

I'm thinking of using treated 4x4's on the frame rails, and then treated 2x6's for bed floor.... thoughts?
 
Sounds likea good idea.....cept I think the frames rails should be metal......all under bed materials should be metal.....just my .02. I "see" mud and dirt rotting wood there
 
Lancerdually said:
Sounds likea good idea.....cept I think the frames rails should be metal......all under bed materials should be metal.....just my .02. I "see" mud and dirt rotting wood there
Click to expand...

I was planning on using pressure treated lumber - so...hopefully it'll last long enough for the next owner to buy one, haha.
 
Even treated lumber, in that type environment........may be wrong, but I'd say 3-4 years before rot takes over and deterioration sets in
 
Man don't take it that I am knocking ya at all brother......just my .02. Rock on and be sure we see the finished product :D
 
I ran a regular untreated pine bed deck on a toyota for 10 years in your area. You'd be suppised how long it holds up. Yes it will start to show rot after 3 or 4 years, but was strong when it was parked. 4 year of sitting put the death nail in it.

The rails were pressure treated 4x6 and were solid to the end.

The rails cost almost as much as the rest of the materials did. I worked after I rolled the truck and couldn't afford a cab and bed.
 
did that, good idea.

I built a wood flatbed for my '65 dodge (300 or 500) truck.
It was a long time ago, and I don't remember if there even existed treated lumber, but I painted all the wood with some kind of penetrating protector, IIRC, to waterproof and prevent mold and bug infestation, all well dried before I started work.

To do it today, I'd use all pressure treated wood, stainless fasteners, diamond plate on top, and (most notably) full fenders on the rears. Over the years, the bed top wore as to be expected, but the bottom of the bed suffered over the tires. I'd use fenders to look like the full fenders on old peterbilts rear duals. I had made the perimeter as strong as the frame rails to hold the side rails. I sold it to my brother-in-law to use on his ranch, and he sold it to another rancher down south. I saw it around 10 years ago with a water tank sitting on my old frame rails. The cab was well perforated with rust, but those rails were fine.

The stuff I used on the wood is probable illegal now, as too toxic, like DDT...
I think you weren't supposed to ever breathe the fumes, or even smell the smoke if you burned the wood that had been treated.

Thinking more about it, I asked wifey. She said I swore I'd never do it again, and should have bought a metal bed. I didn't remember that, but it sure looked good.
 
dangerousdave said:
I'd use fenders...
Click to expand...

Hadn't ever really thought of that - but that's not a bad idea...or at least get some sheet metal and go along the rails and underside of the bed to protect the wood. Thanks! (the truck that I was going to build this for is for sale, so I probably won't be doing it...unfortunately)
 
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