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WIF and now P0251 AND P0370!!!

ghost183

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Location
Brooklyn, NY
im the new guy for this week...

iv been told you guys are the doctors of the 6.5

so....

had waterin fuel light come on 2 days ago, drained the cloudy mix out and got P0251,

so....

this morning started as usual, thru out the day start/stopping, i noticed the cranking time was getting more and more, it usually starts instantly when hot, but now cranked a few times to start, went to work, 5 hours later, tried to start it, wouldnt start, had to hold the throttle about 1/3 to get it to start, after it starts, idles like normal but runs with severely reduced power

checked for water again, had a small amount, drained the CLOUDY MIXTURE again, check engine light was still on since yesterday, so i didnt think anything of it aside from the P0251 thats in there,

so.....

just got home, and now i have;
P0251 = INJECTION PUMP METERING CONTROL
P0370 = TIMING REFERANCE HIGH RES SIGNAL

anybody know whats going on?!?!?!?


this IP was dealer replaced under that 12yr/120k mile warrantee thing about 40k miles ago, i JUST did the lift pump test, and its working properly, checked for air.. none... so im led to believe its internal to the IP. is it trying to tell me it has water in it? or air? cloudy mixture?

please help!!!


is my IP failing? im planning on draining the system tomorrow and getting fresh fuel in there
 
Water impacting ability of the optic sensor/diisk read for correct timing of the IP possibly, go to lift pump/ops thread I posted last nite and see how to make your lift pump run with engine off, if truck has sat a while water will be on bottom of the tank so should not have to drain entire tank, drain till you get solid fuel, then add some fuel treatment made for water contamination.

start with that and then we'll go from there, also mite as well get new fuel filter, once you get clear fuel and treated tank, new filter, you'll need a OBD-2 compliant reader to clear the codes.
 
Oh BTW welcome to the site, and 1st post, we manage to fix one or 2 around here :D


thanks pal.. just read thru your other post and found that LP jumper you show.. what a great help that one is!! really!! beats turning the ignition on and off for 30 minutes trying to drain the sysem..lol

and also, the LP tet i mentioned was the 1/2 pint test.. was good, should i still try the pressure test? or actually.. letm get rid of the sh*t fuel first.. and take it from there
 
After you get your fuel system cleaned out, pour some diesel kleen, standyne diesel treatment, etc. into your fuel filter manager w/ the new filter. It will start faster w/ less cranking after cleaning your fuel system and will help clean the optical sensor in the IP.

Oh! Welcome to the forum.
 
You will have those codes as long as your fuel is tainted.....gotta clean the tank out by either pumping it all out, or putting up with the codes until you run out of fuel....

Make sure you fill up at decent service stations....
 
thanks pal.. just read thru your other post and found that LP jumper you show.. what a great help that one is!! really!! beats turning the ignition on and off for 30 minutes trying to drain the sysem..lol

and also, the LP tet i mentioned was the 1/2 pint test.. was good, should i still try the pressure test? or actually.. letm get rid of the sh*t fuel first.. and take it from there


Best to get rid of junk fuel 1st, additives are stop gap measure if you can't afford to drain tank, but best is to dump it. Do not throw away the fuel if water is only contaminant, strip the water by draining into storage tank/can let sit, water will "fall out", then add back to your truck a maybe 5 gal to tank of fresh fuel with additive in it, best to run thru a filter with water block treatment on filter to further catch any water.

If you know where the bad fuel came from I'd be presenting them with a bill for my troubles, I have Racor prefilter for this very reason, you can never know when you are gonna get a bad load of fuel, one more layer of protection.

Also do not continue to pump into your truck if pump is slow (means probably at bottom of station's tank) where the water will also be, or take on fuel if you see the truck is filling or just has stopped filling the tank as that disturbs the water & crud off the bottom of the tank and puts it back into suspension,
 
Almost a week ago I've been chasing a low LP pressure problem. Just started re-using rear tank, and crap/algea/something bad is in ther clogging my sock up. I blew the sock out, and I also got the 370 code added to my 251. Today, it went out on its own.

Hopefully your follows.
 
well fellas, got an update for ya

my fuel is a nice shade of eggshell color!!!!! kinda like a transparent offwhite!!

what a disaster!!

so.. tell me your opinions here....

i filled it to brin 2 days ago with clean fuel, i pulled the nozzle out to look at the fuel.. very clean, almost transperant, so obviously i must have ALOT of sh*t in my tank to contaminate another 30 gallons of fuel!! so... i was thinking, instead of draining the 3/4 tank that is left in there, use it up till im almost empty again and then drop the tank for a full flush, i went only 20-25 miles today and blew thru about 1/4 tank.. so the truck is really running like crap..

should i use the fuel up? or just bite the bullet and dump the fuel, my issue here is dropping the tank when its full, i dont have the means to actually hold up that much weight (3/4 tank)while im dropping the tank

i can also use the LP jumper under the hood to power the LP and slowly drain the fuel tank till i can drop it, but is that good for the LP?
 
well fellas, got an update for ya

my fuel is a nice shade of eggshell color!!!!! kinda like a transparent offwhite!!

what a disaster!!

so.. tell me your opinions here....

i filled it to brin 2 days ago with clean fuel, i pulled the nozzle out to look at the fuel.. very clean, almost transperant, so obviously i must have ALOT of sh*t in my tank to contaminate another 30 gallons of fuel!! so... i was thinking, instead of draining the 3/4 tank that is left in there, use it up till im almost empty again and then drop the tank for a full flush, i went only 20-25 miles today and blew thru about 1/4 tank.. so the truck is really running like crap..

should i use the fuel up? or just bite the bullet and dump the fuel, my issue here is dropping the tank when its full, i dont have the means to actually hold up that much weight (3/4 tank)while im dropping the tank

i can also use the LP jumper under the hood to power the LP and slowly drain the fuel tank till i can drop it, but is that good for the LP?

No more harm than driving it for 2 hours (the time it will take for it to drain 30 gallons)

If your fuel is the color you say, i'd ditch it all.. put it in your Home heating oil or something if you want, but i wouldn't run it through the IP any more than you have too... problem is, if you keep diluting it, it will still be there, but less and less everytime you fill up. It will stay with you for a LONG time if you don't flush.

I had similar code, caused by crud/old fuel but my fuel looks normal and clean. Thus my SES light went out.

Did you let your sample sit for a while? Still sitting? did it separate at all?
 
Did you let your sample sit for a while? Still sitting? did it separate at all?

i have it sitting as we speak, i dont know how long it needs to settle, so i figure ill check in the morning.. but im tellin ya, ive never seen fuel as white as this, ive seen #2 with water contamination.. but not like this... this was insane, i did a double take and started talking to myself!!!

but ive been thinking about this, and rodd kinda pushed me with that " H2O will kill" comment.. so chances are ill take my wrangler to work tomorrow, and leave the truck parked, ill use some 5 gallon paint pails to store the diesel till it settles and siphone off the top into a torpedo heater in my garage..

maybe ill snap a pic of the fuel tomorrow for you guys to see
 
I would take pictures every step of the way. In case your IP does crap out, maybe you could go after the fuel station. If others file complaints the same time, thats proof.
 
The fastest way to get the h2o out of the fuel is to get yourself a container large enough to hold all your fuel (30 - 55 gal) cut off the top if it doesn't have a lid/opening almost the size of the diameter of the drum. Put 1/2 bag of water softening rock salt you get from wally world into the bottom of it. Then take an old sheet and fold it a few times and bungie or strap it to the drum w/ it sitting down inside the drum making a bowl. Pour the other 1/2 of the salt into the sheet. Then dump the crappy fuel in slowly. The fuel will not react w/ the salt however the h2o will cling to the salt. If you have a lot of h2o The salt in the bottom of the drum will be like bread dough. After sitting for a day you can either pump off the good fuel or have a friend help you pour off the good stuff. The h2o will be trapped in the salt.
 
well.. can anyone tell me what's the deal with this fuel?!!?!

has anyone ever even SEEN fuel like this?!?!?

this is what came out of my tank less than 2 hours ago, and the sample i had sitting since last nite is identical.. NO WATER SEPERATION AT ALL


CAN THIS REALLY BE JUST WATER CONTAMINATION??!?!?
 

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well.. can anyone tell me what's the deal with this fuel?!!?!

has anyone ever even SEEN fuel like this?!?!?

this is what came out of my tank less than 2 hours ago, and the sample i had sitting since last nite is identical.. NO WATER SEPERATION AT ALL


CAN THIS REALLY BE JUST WATER CONTAMINATION??!?!?

Can't be, water will not mix with diesel(oil). No idea what it is. Bring some to the fuel station and ask them the same qauestion. You don't think someone slipped something into your fuel tank?
 
Is SVC the station name?

Not all fuel is created equal unfortunately. Ive never had any trouble with 76, but since their prices are 20 cents higher where I moved to recently I go to a cheaper USA station, although since I add 2-stroke oil and some K100 I dont think it matters.
 
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