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Where is the easiest connection to get key switch power

What kind of load you plan on it supplying, if a high current load get a add a tap fuse to send low amp load to the control side of a relay and then have the relay carry the high current from the accessory power lug by the under hood fused accessory connection.

Pictured here from Amazon site http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GKEXK2/?tag=jhuntlink-20 most auto part stores carry them, also handy when wanting to add gauge light power so they work with the dash dimmer switch
 
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Turbine Doc,
Thanks, the wiring harness for the plow has the relays built in. I just need to tie into keyed power. I'll get a fuse tap and find power in the box by the parking brake release. Surely I'll get this done before I need it!!
 
Hey Doc, that "add-a-tap" thing is pretty cool, never seen that before. I'll be grabbing 2 of those today. I am installing my gauges, and will need to tap for the lights so they will be dimmable. Which fuse should I tap into for that? I will have 3 gauges, so 3 little lights. I will also need to tap into a switched wire, for the Trans temp and Pyro. Which fuse should I tap for that?

Thanks
 
Ok well on further searching, seems like fuse #14 would be best for my gauge lights, but what about the switched power for the trans temp and pyro?

I'm just a little confused with electronics and not sure how those add a tap's work. I don't want to overload a circuit or degrade another by tapping into the wrong one.
 
mgray said:
Ok well on further searching, seems like fuse #14 would be best for my gauge lights, but what about the switched power for the trans temp and pyro?

I'm just a little confused with electronics and not sure how those add a tap's work. I don't want to overload a circuit or degrade another by tapping into the wrong one.
Click to expand...

The tap usually taps into the hot side if the circuit (fuse contact leg), can either be switched power or unswitched power. The accessory that you are adding should be fused inline to the proper sized fuse, check the documentation that came with it.
 
TurbineDoc has the best advice. Use the add-a-circuit.

It is basically a device that takes the place of the mini-automotive fuses that the GM uses. It has a place for you to replace the original fuse, and taps off that circuit with a 3 amp-max load. This is based on the fact that the carrying capacity of the circuit is usually well over what the fuse is rated for. A 3 A addition is well within safety specs (based on my understanding as an electrical engineer) and should be fine for most purposes.

I think tapping into the box in the engine bay is way easier for what you want to do.

I would put a notch into the weatherproof plastic cover and run the wire through there. If you want to be super-fancy, then drill a little hole and put a rubber grommet in to run your wire out of. Leave enough slack to take the box on and off.

Any more than 3 A and you'll want a relay. Notice that the two taps (permanently on) on the back of the fuse box in the engine bay I believe are rated a lot higher, like 30A or so. I have tied several small devices (e.g. the relay for the OPS) into that larger circuit. You will need a very large terminal lug to get it to properly secure to those outlets.

Good luck!

-Rob :)
 
I would also like to point out that unlike other devices, the 'add-a-circuit' doesn't add any thickness to the fuse legs (like other designs) and doesn't 'wrap around the leg' of the fuse like some designs. It literally takes the place of the fuse, with the exact same spade terminal ends, same thickness, same dimensions, etc. Therefore it doesn't mess about with any of the problematic designs that either have bad connectivity or deform the fuse female plug. I think it is a very smart design both mechanically and electrically. I would also look at cleaning everything with DeOxit by TechniTool to help with the oxidation problems in the electrical fuse box.

Good luck,

Rob :)
 
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