Where in pan to tap for trans temp?

[mgray]

I've heard that the test port isn't the ideal place to install the trans temp probe, and I don't have the adapters to do the cooling lines, so looks like I'm tapping the pan. It's stock and isn't that big, and I've never looked inside mine, but I think I know what's back there, just not exactly where.

So I figured I'd ask where on the pan is best to tap for my sender? It looks like it sticks out about 1/2" past the end of the threads into the pan, so I better make sure I put it in the right place!

Thanks

 

[NVW]

The pan is too thin to drill and tap, you will need to weld a bung on it

 

[Turbine Doc]

X2 pan is sheet metal, I replaced my pan with this one from PML http://www.yourcovers.com/transpan_9437.php in sand cast which provides a boss for a sensor, and adds extra capacity, plus some passive cooling of trans fluid

 

[robzombie4551]

I used washers and hi-temp o-rings to install mine.

I've had no leaks for over six months now and it also pulls the sensor back about a 1/4 inch.

If you don't have the coin for a new aluminum pan or a welder,which I do have,but still didn't weld a bung on at the time because I would have to had to drive into town to get one.

It could be perm. but I will weld a bung on when I drop the pan to change the filter in the future.

Just another option to think about.

 

[Ed HD]

I would braze it in. Less chance of having the pan warp or having leaks.

 

[WarWagon]

Ideal?
I use the test port. It threads right in with zero fuss. I don't have to worry about it (wiring) during a pan drop. It is sensitive enough to start moving up in temperature as soon as a tire separates on a trailer I am pulling. Same with pulling a hill with the TCC unlocked and cooling off with the TCC override switch on.

Last trans um, well 2, that were running hot:
1 required a rebuild due to a spun bearing, OD sprag failed, and OD gears destroyed.
2 required TCC override to quit heating up.

Both units had the temp readings verified with a temp gun on the cooling lines/pan and temp stickers on the pan. The gauge was dead on accurate while using the test port.

Not sure the extra fuss is worth it, but, that is up to you.

 

[mgray]

Warwagon if what you say is true then I think the test port might be easier. I'm not a serious tower so dead on accuracy isn't totally required.

But when I was under there taking a look, I don't think I can get the plug out and the sender in without taking off the shift linkage. I've read online where some people have had shifting problems after taking off the linkage.

The FSM says to put it in "Mechanical Neutral". I'm a little confused on that, as if I turn the control lever, it just switches gears as if I was pulling on the shifter inside doesn't it? So when I put the shifter inside to neutral, then try and turn the shifter on the trans clockwise, it won't move. Then if I turn it 2 indents counter clockwise, isn't that the same as putting it in 2nd?

Plus it seem the 2 bolts holding the shifter to the tranny need to go exactly where they came from, or my shift adjustment will be off, right?

Can I just mark the 2 bracket bolts, remove them and the shifter nut, remove shifter from tranny, install temp probe, then reinstall shifter and line up bracket bolts to where they were before and all should be good?

Thanks again for the help guys

 

[NVW]

I got mine in without disconnecting the linkage, you have to go by feel as it can't be seen.

 

[mgray]

Did you use a wrench, or socket with a u-joint? What size too if you remember?

I tried getting a ratchet wrench back there but had trouble. With the pressures in that port, I want to make sure I can tighten the temp probe enough(any idea of a good torque#?)

Also, did you use anything on the threads of the temp probe? The instructions say NOT TO USE thread tape. Other then Teflon tape I don't know what else to use, if anything?

Sorry for so many Q's, but this feels like one of those situations that should be super easy, but then ends up causing me more problems(ie. taking off linkage, and leaky probe).

Thanks again

 

[NVW]

IIRC I just used a wrench, I'm guessing at about a 3/8". I could look at the plug that came out tomorrow. The fitting may be different but you can easily see what size you need for it.

If the fitting is brass no sealant is necessary, I don't recall what I did. A little teflon tape won't hurt.