Wheel bearings

[Brooklyn Tow]

Someone please give me a quick lesson in "how tight do you make the spindle nut" For the, "replacing the hub and wheel bearings, again for the second time on both sides because the A-Hole mechanic didn't use Hi temp grease and probably overtightened the spindle nut too," problem that i'm having.

Mods please don't move this thread "Yet"

 

[vail426]

2WD drive I presume? I have always tightened the nut tight with my fingers and then back it off just enough to get in the cotter pin. Just make sure there are no burrs on the nut or spindle threads. These bearings are not to be pre-loaded. Done it this way since day 1 and never had an issue.

 

[Brooklyn Tow]

Please explain pre loaded.....yes 2WD 3500HD w/ a big a$$ hub and the inner has to be loaded before going back on.

 

[Missy Good Wench]

Finger tight or snug will do fine.

On a drive axle (4X4 or rear axle) the bearings run under a loaded condition.

Load or preload is to run the nut down until it is snug and then take it a little bit more.

There is always a spec on the preload (amount of torque needed to turn the setup)

Fronts are fine with the nut just finger tight or slightly more.
Make sure there is no slop in the hub though.

Now if snug by fingers wont allow the cotter to go in and you can go just a tad more and get it, thats fine. If it takes more than a little past finger tight then go back to the next notch.

Some setups have devices that allow for fine adjustment rather than just the standard castle nut with slots.

MOPAR used to have a stamped steel device that you could position to get things perfect.

Not rocket science and as long as you dont overtighten it will be fine.

MGW

 

[ak diesel driver]

You should over tighten a little to squeeze excess grease out of the bearing and the back it off and do finger tight. Otherwise it will be to loose.

 

[Matt Bachand]

I assume yours are totally different then the rest of our as you have leafspring setup and not IFS????

I cranked my axle nut on tight w/impact!!! No good?

 

[jmiller]

Usually, good practice is to torque the spindle to 40 or 50 ft/lb, rotate the hub, then back of the nut 1/2 turn.
Repeat torque, rotate, back off. This seats the bearings and assures accurate preload.

Then, without moving the rotor, set the nut finger tight or to the preload setting in the manual.

Most preloads are set by either torque or force required to rotate the hub.

Using the high torque to seating the bearings, makes sure the inner is tight against the spindle and bearing rollers are in place. this give the most accurate pre load / setup.

This is what I do when ever setting up wheel bearings on a spindle. (non cartridge type) Haven't had an issue yet.