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What to look for

96GMC6.5L

96GMC6.5L

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I am going to look at a wrecked 96 6.5 tomorrow that the lady wants $1700 for. I am thinking depending on what it looks like I can probably get it for $1000-1200 cash, but what should I be looking for.

I will already be looking at the box as that is what I need the most, but also the IP is supposed to be new, but how can that be seen. I was going to look at it and see if it wasn't too dirty etc but other than that. Also, what else should I be looking for?

Thanks
 
96GMC6.5L said:
I am going to look at a wrecked 96 6.5 tomorrow that the lady wants $1700 for. I am thinking depending on what it looks like I can probably get it for $1000-1200 cash, but what should I be looking for.

I will already be looking at the box as that is what I need the most, but also the IP is supposed to be new, but how can that be seen. I was going to look at it and see if it wasn't too dirty etc but other than that. Also, what else should I be looking for?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Bring a extension small mirror, should be able to peek in and see a shiny new tag on it if its fairly new. I'm sure she has the Turbo cover on it still... bring basic tools. Up in the stickies should be the buyers checklist.

http://www.dieseltowingresource.com/showthread.php?t=13574
 
If you buy the entire truck and want to sell some little interior parts let me know :thumbsup:
 
Stopped by, driver door is junk, passenger door is good. Bed is in real good condition. Has power windows mirrors. No CD player, and like the work truck radio with the sliding adjustments instead of the knobs. The GM-5 has no shaft play, and the truck does have the dual thermostats. There was a lot of oil on the bottom of the turbo, and underneath on the exhaust manifold, so I assume the CDR is really bad. The ODO reads 235,xxx, but I'm not sure if that is right, and she didn't know. What would you be looking for interior parts? I asked if she had gotten a lot of offers and she said she had quite a few, but noone has shown up with cash, and she said to make an offer so. I am thinking maybe 1000. have to talk to my parents and see what happens.
 
Drivers side door speaker cover, Passenger side door handle inside and out, CD holder thing from the center console if it has it :)
 
The truck was wrecked, and the front end is pused into the fan, so I'am not sure it would run. Also, it hasn't run in 2 years I think so. I wanted the check the front rotors as I would need those too, but I forgot. It isn't a Maine truck. Vin check shows it originate from Iowa I think so that explains the lack of rust.

Refresh my memory, what does the rad hose test tell again? I should try this on my own truck.

I never climbed underneath it as it was raining, and it was parked in muddy grass so... The turbo power cover was gone, and there were two spare PMD's mounted on an alluminum plate sitting on the floor on the passenger side, so I think they messed around with PMD's before the went ahead and changed the pump, if it was in fact changed. The only thing I am unsure of and am assuming is the CDR is the oil on the bottom of the turbo, exhaust manifold, and frame rail below the manifold close to where the turbo oil return tube thingy goes back into the motor.

The transfer case shifted except into 4 HI. Does it have to be in gear, or running to shift into HI. I have never really experimented with this much so. I know it has to be in neutral (on an automatic) to shift into LO, but as for the other stuff I am clueless, especially on a manual tranny.
 
the manual says you can shift 4 hi while moving, there isnt any reason it should not shift while parked... it may shift in just fine if the driveshaft was rotated a small amount though.
 
Ya, that might be it. It would shift into the other 4wd modes fine but just not HI.
 
That oil leak sounds like the turbo oil return leaking IMO.. my wifes truck was the same way when I got it. Mine will shift into 4h in park to problems. Radiator hose test is for head gaskets, but if it hasnt been ran in 2 years....
 
Ya, maybe it just wasn't sitting right for it to go into HI. I think it is deffinately worth 1000 if I can get it for that. Like I said, the bed is in real good shape for the most part compared to mine, which is really the only thing I am interested in, everything else is a bonus. If I do get it, I will just take all usable parts off, and junk the rest of the truck that's all. I have to talk to my folks, and maybe my dad will come take a look at it.
 
That's what I am thinking. This is the add with a few pictures. The tires are pretty much junk but. Maybe I could swap out the 4.10's for the 3.73's and up my mileage! (that is thinking a little far ahead lol) I would probably definately take the dual thermostat housing and water pump off and put that on. Other than that, that is probably the only motor part I would use right off. Pull the motor and tranny, transfercase, passenger door, door handles, electronics, power window switches, speakers, etc and junk the rest.
 
I had a nice lesson with the GM 4wd system a while back. It has something called an "engagement actuator" that has to engage, imagine that, in order for the front wheels to turn. If the light doesn't go on, it's not engaged. You can feel the thing shift, but front wheels don't turn. The part is on the front axle, over toward the passenger side with a plug having two wires. I have to put mine in 4wd, then count to 10 or 12, then the light goes on and it's ready. Strange design.
 
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