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What to do for my trans?

pacificdrumma

pacificdrumma

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Need some insight here. Truck has 161k on the clock. To my knowledge, original trans, 4L80E of course. I have had the truck for about 24k miles and havent touched the trans at all. I know the rule of thumb is that if the trans hasnt had regular flushes, DONT flush it. Thats the category I think I fall into. It shifts smooth, very smooth, no lurching or anything, you can feel it shift if you pay attention. Doesnt seem to slip at all. I would like to add some power to the truck in the coming months. My goal is about 250-275hp and 500-550ftlbs. I want it to be usable power, not looking to blow the doors off anything- except my buddies 12v :) The only thing I was really planning was a trans service and then the B&M "trans tuner" the $40 box that has a sport, tow, and stock mode for the trans. Will my trans take the power okay or should I budget for having some work done on it?
 
Don't flush it, but a fluid and filter change is always a good idea. With that many miles you might as well plan on saving up and fixing it when it starts to slip. I'm personally NOT a fan of pressure boxes, but rather goign with an actual shift kit. With that many miles though, it's like putting a band ade on a bullet wound. Theres only so much it can take with that many miles on it. And if you make ANY trans mods, make sure and let whoever does your tune know. Pressure boxes combined with added pressure from a tune can result in split pistons inside your trans.
 
Whatever you do, keep it clean! Mechanic introduced dirt is the number 1 trans killer.

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2
 
vegtech said:
Whatever you do, keep it clean! Mechanic introduced dirt is the number 1 trans killer.

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...

I would say that the number 1 killer is lack of maintence. The #1 cause of rebuilds/repairs not working is dirt/debris introduced during work.
 
Heat is also I big trans killer. Look into the Derale tranny pans. They hold 4extra qts and have cooling tubes on the bottom. In the summer my tranny temps only see about 160-180 in traffic. Once I am on the open road she drops to 130-140. That is towing a 4500-5000 6x12 enclosed with the ac on. The cooling tubes actually work. Any 6.5 I tow with gets one. This last trip towing the new truck home (6800lbs or so) in the winter never saw 120 on the gauge.
 
Heat is a big killer because of fluid breakdown, use a good fluid and it is not as big a problem. Conventional trans fluid like DEX/MERC fluid begins to lose vscosity around 225 degrees at a rapid rate, and around 250 it goes down quickly, 280 and it is pretty well done. Synthetics if made from a good POA base stock can handle temps in excess of 280 degrees without any significant viscosity breakdown. TRANSYND(ALLISON's synthetic they sell) is rated to temps of around 325 degrees before it really sees any type of viscosity breakdown, and it is not uncommon for an ALLISON with a trans retarder to hit 325 on a regular basis. It is also a good note to keep in mind a deep pan does nothing to lower trans temps, all it does is make it take longer to heat up but also longer to cool down. Now finned and tubed pans made of aluminum can lower temps while moving so long as they get adequite airflow.
 
Okay, deep dish trans pan was something I had come across before, definitely sounds like a good investment. How about the diff cover as well?
 
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