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What is needed for a proper glow plug replacement?

Pillow

Pillow

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Warrenton, VA
Hey, it is starting to get cold here! Where is the official 2012 Glow Plug thread? My oooolllldddd G60s are about shot.

What are the best glow plugs to buy these days? G60s or Duratherms?

Also do you all normally replace the wiring and/or glow plug relay at the same time?

I would rather overkill the job than piddle diddle with it twice. LOL

Thanks!
 
Well, I'd do a set of Duraterms, from Rock Auto,, If the relay is working it's fine. As you are replacing the glows,, that's the time to inspect wiring. I like to pull them off, then on, then off, then on,, a few times to clean the innerards of the female part of the wire end. Don't suppose you see alot of salty roads in your area, so you should be fine there. An over all inspection of the wiring can be done at this time, and as long as nothing is brittle or corroded, I think you'd be fine. Maybe look up the glow plug override mod, to give them an extra shot of time to warm up, for when your parked in the cold far from a plug.
 
I am on my 3rd set of plugs (but one set only lasted a yr some quick heats from heath). 60G are fine too. My wiring looked ok still. A bit of anti sieze on the threads and should be good to go. My GP relay is OE and seems fine but usually only really cold here for a few days at a time.
 
When I did Duraterms on the 93, I removed each connector at the GP and hit them with a dremel wire brush, buffed them to a shine., also gave the 'ramp' that makes them snug a tweak to make 'em tighter. A little Dielectric grease and good to go.

The housings are ceramic or bakalite (sp?) and can break.. But they're pretty tough. Use a very small flat screwdriver and go in from the front bottom of the housing (IIRC) to depress the tang that holds the connector in there. Don't forget to give this tang a little tweak upward before snapping them back in.
 
3500GMC said:
When I did Duraterms on the 93, I removed each connector at the GP and hit them with a dremel wire brush, buffed them to a shine., also gave the 'ramp' that makes them snug a tweak to make 'em tighter. A little Dielectric grease and good to go.

The housings are ceramic or bakalite (sp?) and can break.. But they're pretty tough. Use a very small flat screwdriver and go in from the front bottom of the housing (IIRC) to depress the tang that holds the connector in there. Don't forget to give this tang a little tweak upward before snapping them back in.
Click to expand...

The dielectric grease is an excellent suggestion for ANY electrical connection that can be exposed to underhood or exterior environments. I use it any time I remove/replace an electrical connector or on a lamp base when replacing a burned out corner marker or license plate lamp (my front marker/turns are aftermarket amber LED units, and my rear tail lights are LED, too - NO bulb replacements ever!).
 
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