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what can go wrong doing hinge pins outside? advice needed

GM Guy

Manual Trans. 2WD Enthusiast
Messages
4,838
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846
Location
NW Kansas and SC Idaho
hey all,

living in windy western KS, I have to ask, what all can go wrong doing door pins outside on the cement pad in front of the shop? the shop is full of other stuff, and I need to do door hinges on the 95 GMC.

the local GM dealer says they charge book rate, and will figure 1 hour, at 70 bucks an hour roughly to do the hinge pins alone, I plan to do the striker and latch and handle.

so, with the possibility of a good wind gust, would you guys hire out the pins? the paint isnt much on this truck, but the door has no scrapes or dents, so it would be nice to keep it from getting uglied up.

I want to use a cherry picker, but have vent shades on it, so unless I want to break them, it will need to be a jack with maybe the cherry picker holding it upright.

any tips for protection of the body panels? I suppose if I had help, and stuffed a big sheet of cardboard in the gap I would be OK.

I would imagine the GM dealer would have a specialty jack for moving doors?

if I do hire it out, should I put the new latch and striker in in case they need to tweak stuff to make it line up?


also, how bad are dealers usually for just bending stuff to make it work on repairs like this?


I dont want to hire it out, but dont want a door beating into the fender outside, so I am at a crossroads.

any input on what route I should take would be appreciated. thanks!
 
also, since all parts will be new, should I put a new inner door handle in and recycle the current one to another grey interior 95+ truck?
 
Hire it out as the door spring on the device to hold the door open is a real PIA without the right tool. Shop I used last busted several pin bushings doing the job: parts on their dime. Takes 2 people to swap doors. I have done it and don't recommend it.

Put the new parts in and they can finish the job.

95 door handles are throwaway items as they bend/break and quit opening the door.
 
I agree w/ WarWagon, get it done. I have done about 200, seriously about 5% goes haywire and it is definitely 2 person job. No special jack just manhandle it. Special tool for the spring will will cost $45 for a ok one, $60 for a good one. Don't waste your time with the p.o.s. from harbor freight. The first 2 or 3 sucked and now that I am good and fast at them I still hate it.
 
I would hire it out too. I'll put it this way, I did the drivers door on the 93 and still have hinges for the pass side in the door pocket. Those springs suck!

Sent from: Source Unknown
 
I do them by myself, but I will agree the spring for the striker is a HUGE PITA to get back in.
 
they have done a ton I am sure, lots of high mile well checking pickups around.

so I should be fine doing all the latch components, and just hiring the pins, correct? it doesnt look like there is a wrong way to do the latch or striker.
 
Striker has a plate with threads on the back side that is NOT attached to the cab. I held mine in place with an old hard drive voice coil motor magnet stuck below the striker. So if you unscrew the striker and hear a thud...
 
The in door latch is simple. The striker is ok just make sure you have the nut captured in the b pillar. It has to be adjusted for height and depth. This will be readjusted after the pins change.

You have the right idea, but consider good body shops in the area more the dealership. They will have much more experience & probably a lower rate.
 
The pins/bushings are the easy part, do that yourself IMO. The latch is the PITA until you done a few.
Get in the Zone and look in Help section for pins and bushings. Latch is around $35 iirc
Your door will be like new after, soooo nice!
 
leroy, the latch, or the striker will be the PITA?

I got all the parts from GM. I get a 15 percent off good customer/ repeat customer discount, but it still wasnt cheap. I do hear the GM pins are the longest life though, and I dont like doing stuff over again.

so I may be better off putting the new latch and striker in, then taking it in for the pins and final alignment at the shop?

I Am asking about good local shops on facebook, so we will see how that pans out.
 
other than digging into the door, it only installs one way, correct? I dont mind tedious labor, so I can get the door apart no issue.

the current one has all the plastic wore off the jaws, and the guide channel lip where it contacts the striker is all wore off, so I think I need to replace it.
 
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