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Water pump replacement

R

Rodd

Recruit
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Location
Antelope, CA
My burb has a leaky water pump. It looks like that is my project this weekend. Is there anything else I need to check while I'm down there? The main pulley on the harmonic balancer looks good and doesn't wobble at all. I was thinking about changing out the coolant from red to green. What is the easiest way to flush the old stuff out?
 
ghitch75 said:
dependin' on miles i'd do the timin' chain while your in there that deep....
Click to expand...

10-4 on that.....If you got the coin, HB, Crank Pully, may not wobble, but I bet the rubber is brittle with some dry rot.

It would suck after your done to go back in for something you had in your hand 2 weeks ago....
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
10-4 on that.....If you got the coin, HB, Crank Pully, may not wobble, but I bet the rubber is brittle with some dry rot.

It would suck after your done to go back in for something you had in your hand 2 weeks ago....
Click to expand...

I'm facing the same leaky waterpump issue with a small leak on the driver's side. Pump has over 100K miles on it. Should I just replace the pump? If so, what brand do I use? Cardone? AC Delco? I have '95 Suburban 2500 4x4, but I installed the high volume pump with the dual crossover T-stats at 50K. Have 156K miles on it now.

While I'm in there, I plan on replacing all hoses, idler pulley, timing chain. What is the HB? Does the crank pulley really have rubber in it? If so, propably will replace all of that stuff.

Steve
 
Drain the red crap out. Refill with clean water and run the engine with the heater return line unhooked connected to a jumper hose to get it out of the engine bay.

Run the garden hose into the coolant fill bottle and let the sucker run a while to flush the red stuff all out of the block and radiator with the engine running.

When nothing but clear water comes out of the heater return line your clean.

Shut down, drain the radiator and then do the repairs.

Once the pump is back on, add 3 gallons of straight green and your set.

This flushes out the block, heads, heater core and the radiator.


Missy
 
Missy Good Wench said:
Drain the red crap out. Refill with clean water and run the engine with the heater return line unhooked connected to a jumper hose to get it out of the engine bay.

Run the garden hose into the coolant fill bottle and let the sucker run a while to flush the red stuff all out of the block and radiator with the engine running.

When nothing but clear water comes out of the heater return line your clean.

Shut down, drain the radiator and then do the repairs.

Once the pump is back on, add 3 gallons of straight green and your set.

This flushes out the block, heads, heater core and the radiator.


Missy
Click to expand...

I agree with everything you said except for the bold part. I would never run straight coolant... Always a mix. I'm sure you know this but coolant by itself does not transfer heat well. It is only there to stop the water from freezing. Straight water with water wetter would be the best way to go but that is only for summer if that... Like I said a mix is the best way to go NEVER run straight coolant...
 
Actually the best way to flush is while the waterpump is off. I took the hose and stuck it in each of the water pump ports and flushed all that red crap out. I used lifetime though. A bit more expensive than green but can mix with trace amount of red without issue.
 
Green Machine said:
I agree with everything you said except for the bold part. I would never run straight coolant... Always a mix. I'm sure you know this but coolant by itself does not transfer heat well. It is only there to stop the water from freezing. Straight water with water wetter would be the best way to go but that is only for summer if that... Like I said a mix is the best way to go NEVER run straight coolant...
Click to expand...

That would be mixed, as the system takes 7 gallons. So after the repair, you lose your water, add 3 green, and then top off with water, giving you your mix. That's what I get out of it.
 
Matt Bachand said:
That would be mixed, as the system takes 7 gallons. So after the repair, you lose your water, add 3 green, and then top off with water, giving you your mix. That's what I get out of it.
Click to expand...

For some reason I was thinking it was only 5 gallons which to me is still to much of a ration of coolant to water. So 3:4 ratio is pretty good then. Makes sense ):h.

Also, you may want to take out your radiator (since you will have all the plastic shielding out of the way), flush it and clean the outside of the radiator too. When i replaced my oil cooler and lines I found quite a bit of stuff in the radiator and cleaned out the little section i had, but still not good enough for me.
 
Acesneights1 said:
Actually the best way to flush is while the waterpump is off. I took the hose and stuck it in each of the water pump ports and flushed all that red crap out. I used lifetime though. A bit more expensive than green but can mix with trace amount of red without issue.
Click to expand...

Explain how that would be better than MGW method? She is running the vehicle letting it circulate water, spewing out the old, and constantly adding new until the last leg is coming out crystal clean?

Your method could leave all sorts of pockets of old, especially since the vehicle is not up to temperature and circulating. Not to mention the radiator.

I'm sure each method would be fine, but MGW's way you can see when youre done. THen let it run for another 10 minutes to be sure.

I also used the mixeable lifetime... just in case the rumors are true about the red and green can't mix AT ALL.

--------------




I'm still running my original waterpump... 130 on the clock. Got a good look at it today when cleaening radiator, doesn't look all too bad to swap out.
 
Missy Good Wench said:
Drain the red crap out. Refill with clean water and run the engine with the heater return line unhooked connected to a jumper hose to get it out of the engine bay.

Run the garden hose into the coolant fill bottle and let the sucker run a while to flush the red stuff all out of the block and radiator with the engine running.

When nothing but clear water comes out of the heater return line your clean.

Shut down, drain the radiator and then do the repairs.

Once the pump is back on, add 3 gallons of straight green and your set.

This flushes out the block, heads, heater core and the radiator.


Missy
Click to expand...

Where is the heater core return line? Any pics?
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
10-4 on that.....If you got the coin, HB, Crank Pully, may not wobble, but I bet the rubber is brittle with some dry rot.

It would suck after your done to go back in for something you had in your hand 2 weeks ago....
Click to expand...

The HB appears to be in good shape. All the rubber looks good. I will hold off on the TC for now since cash is scarce right now. Wyatt (1999gmc) got me a water pump last year when he was doing his. World Pac was discontinuing a line and he got them for $30. They retailed for nearly $300 IIRC. I knew I would need it some day. I got lucky.
 
you'll be fine Rodd....Just make sure what you put back on, looks good......it'll be a lot easier to tell once you start pulling it off........you know, If it ain't broke..
 
With the water thats left in the block (Clean) the 3 gallons of green will mix well and be just about right.

I started my DaHoooley with plain water just in case there was an issue.
I did not want to have to mess with all that fresh $$$$$$$$$$ sticky green crap if I had to dig back into something.

I drained the thing completely after the first fireoff and warm up.

Added 3 full galons of green and the system was perfect.
About -30F reading in the tester.


Purging with the engine running and the old pump still on will circulate the water well through the whole system and get out all that nasty RED crap.

With the engine dead you cant really purge the block very well unless you want to fight trying to get the drain plugs out, NOT

The heater core is also purged clean too.

This works and does not take any extra effort to do.

The system hold about 6 gallons of coolant and when I refilled mine after draining the radiator it took exactly 3 gallons of green to fill to the middle of the bottle.


Missy
 
There are 2 lines that go into the rad on top passenger side. The one that points to headlight goes to overflow tank, the one that points toward engine is heater return.
 
After not taking the timing cover off ,when replacing the pump, the seal[anarobic sealer] broke and leaked worse after than before. I got to take it apart a second time. I strongly recomend removing timing cover unless you like rework. If it has been apart and a gasket was used I wouldn't be as conserned.
 
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