Water leak

[EraserX33]

Hey all,

Got a little water leak happening on what seems like where the timing cover attaches to the block. I had replaced the water pump a while back and thought I may have not got the bolts tight enough but retightening did not resolve the issue. It's not a huge leak but there is some seapage going on.

I am wondering if I need anything specific to get this cover off besides a balancer puller. I'll most likely swap out the chain while i'm in there. Truck's running great though so I will reserve that decision until I check the slack on it.

I assumes there is a gasket, or is it black rtv?

Thanks in advance.

 

[SmithvilleD]

My engine rebuild kit included gaskets, which I used, and has sealed fine. I think the factory used some type of anaerobic sealer on some of those surfaces.

Pay attention to which bolts go thru into the water jacket. Those should have some thread sealant similar to you can use on head bolts where the threads are exposed to coolant/pressure.

 

[bk95td]

I had the same thing happen with my 91 6.2. When I took the water pump loose it must have broken the anarobic sealer. It leaked worse after I replaced the water pump than it did before. Rework sucks. I'll never not reseal the timing cover if I replace the water pump. As long as you are that far ,I'd replace the timing chain and gears with a cloyes unit.I used a melling on the 6.2 and it wasn't much tighter than the one it replaced. The cloyes I just put on one of my 6.5s is very tight.

 

[ak diesel driver]

Glad to see a fellow 49er on here.

 

[BigArt]

Have a look here. http://maxxtorque.com/heath-diesels-65-heavy-duty-cooling-upgrade While you don't nesessarily have to do the upgrade, there is a good diagram and a how-to in changing the water pump.

Art

 

[Missy Good Wench]

YESSSSSSSSSSS remove the accessories and the ballancer
Remove the front pan bolts and the rest of the cover bolts (a few under the pump too)
You will need to unbolt the injection pump (leave the lines all tight and remove only the three nuts and be sure to mark the pump for timing purposes)
Once the water pump is off remove the bolts that hold the top timing gear to the IP (3 bolts) there is a pin that indexes the gear to the pump.

there are two or three bolts inside the cover behind the top gear that need to come out too. Some engines had a metal splash shield behind the top gear (Pump gear) if yours does you need to remove it to get the top cover bolts loose.

Most 6.5's dont have this shield.

Wash all bolts well and clean all threads inside the cover area well.

Use blue locktite when replacing any bolts on the inside.
One of these falls out, its game over !!!

You wont need to mess with the cam gears or the chain.

Be sure you line up the timing marks on the Pump gear with the cam gear. ( I would do this prior to removal) (they are easy to find)

Clean all surfaces and reinstall the cover using RTV on the gaskets as well as the joint where the cover and the pan meet.

Be very careful not to mess with the pan rail bolts. Only remove the front bolts where the cover and the pan meet.

Clean the pan well and the cover. Once things are ready, use the RTV on the pan.

Uses a good contact glue to attach the gaskets to the block side of the cover.

Once the glue has set then these gaskets wont move while you wiggle the cover back into place on the dowels.

Replace the front cover seal too while the cover is off.

Use a gasket between the waterpump back plate and the timing cover.

The long bolts that go though the timing cover and into water should have silicone sealer on the threads.

Easy job, just take your time and it will be great and leak free.

**** HINT****
BrakeKleen works great on threads and to degrease any area thats going to get RTV

RTV can be used on the block side of the cover gaskets (Glued to the cover)
An extra good blop of RTV in the corners of the pan and cover joint is a good thing.

Dont use a gasket between the cover and the pan.

These are available but unless the whole set is installed it wont work well.

MGW

 

[Missy Good Wench]

My last post is long but, there is a good way and a bad way to do these. Having a leak after a redo sucks.

Take your time, clean all the parts well and things will work sweet.

Now this said, getting the timing cover back onto the dowels can take a little fooling around.

Also be sure to use Blue locktite on the gear to IP bolts too **NOT RED**

Pay special attention to the area where the cover and the pan join.

Make sure your new gasket does not stick below this area. If it does, trim with a razor blade after the glue sets up.

This area can leak oil if not done well.

Have fun

MGW

 

[Matt Bachand]

When my factory W/P craps out I'll be searching for this thread. Thanks MGW for the time to write this out. You should move to the East Coast me thinks!!!!

 

[EraserX33]

Thanks for all the replies. I appreciate it. I was not aware of the 2 pan bolts so that is definately a help as I know now that I will need to remove the intercooler before I start.

Will any old balancer puller work in these? I have one that I bought and used on a GM 454. I assume the lower chain gear on the crank is a press fit? Again, regular puller here?

49er... Yeah I've seen a few others lurking here as well.

Thanks again.

 

[Missy Good Wench]

I have had many offers of a ring on my finger if I bring my Roll away and move.

I like Oregon a lot though.

Im sorta set in my ways and grumpy when I dont get them. ):h


Thanks for the offer :thumbsup:

 

[Missy Good Wench]

Any puller that has two slots and will allow you to pick up opposite bolts on the ballancer will work.

I use the bolts that bolt the lower serp pulley onto the ballancer to pull with. Just right.

Do NOT pull on the rim.

The crank gear is a light press but a puller hooked onto the gear behind the teeth for the crank sensor will do the trick. (stay between the teeth and hook that rim area of gear)

No need to pull any of the gears to do the cover, just the ballancer and the pump gear.

It will be quite obvious when you get in there.

MGW