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Waste oil fuel?

ak diesel driver

ak diesel driver

6.5 driver
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I talked to a guy a few minutes ago who manufactures fuel from waste oil zylene and a few other products I can't recall. He heats it up and runs it thru a centrifuge. He says that the fuel is black because the soot has stained the oil and that it's filtered thru the centrifuge to submicron levels. What do ya'll think?
 
I personally wouldn't use it. Just be sure to have a real good filtration setup on your truck. At least down to 2 micron. And be prepared to change them often.
 
In a DB2 you can blend that no problem. I have in the past. Trans fluid same deal. I also cetrifuge oil and in 2 passes it takes WVO to a clear amber color. Filter that for 4 hours, put it in the tank (Two tank system) then it still has the onboard filters to go though. By the time you do all that the oil is clean. My filters were lasting 15000 miles easy.
The best thing if you have the time is to just let the oil settle for a month or longer then pump off the top 3/4 of it and start the filtering process.
 
I'm skeptical myself but the price is tempting. He has 2 diff mixes $1.50 for 1 and $2.00 for the other. I originally called him thinking he was making bio and could use it as an additive. He claims about the same lubricity as bio he voluteered to let me have a little for a sample.
 
I would'int put it though a DS4 unless its clear. Looks like you have equipment that can use it.
 
Putting your truck on a diet? Maybe you wanted to say Xylene and that is a nasty solvent harming the unborn etc.

Black = soot. No test needed. If it is still black the suspended by detergents soot is still in the oil. This is the #1 concern of running used engine oil is the wear the soot causes on the IP and injectors. Not to mention engine oil doesn't burn that clean and can foul the injectors causing them to stick. Aka hard starting.
 
I know I am a newbie but I do have a Mercedes 240D that I have 10000 miles on wvo and I put the neighbors used motor oil in the settling drums with the used veggie oil and settle for a month like Leroy said and then filter the top 2/3 thru a pair of blue jeans and then pump it thru a 10 micron home water filter and then blend 5gal wvo with a quart of reg gas and 3 quarts k-1 kerosene and 4 oz power service gray bottle and all I got r resistance injection line heaters. The Mercedes has a clear lawn mower filter looking prefilter that is clear plastic and a little itty bitty factory 10 micron spin on filter. I change the clear one every oil change but have not stopped one up yet. Have not had to change the spin on yet. My cost for final fuel is about 90 cents per gallon!!!! Gonna run my lil 6.2 GMC on it too!!!! Gotta do more mods to run the GMC on wvo, Leroy and I r talking it thru and doing all the mods one at a time to make sure there is not a problem with one, that way we can identify the mod problem b4 I actaually switch to wvo. My friends have now been running 3 John Deere tractors 4 a year off my blend with no problems, John Deere uses Stanadyne pumps too. Supposedly the IPs wear out prematurely but a lot of people only kill the first IP cause its already worn out on the old trucks when they start. Hey I can afford a IP every year easy if my fuel is that cheap. As for polyermization of ur oil just change it when u supposed too. The jury is still out on the supposed gumming up of the cylinders, Leroy hasnt gummed any up yet. I do purge the Mercedes once a month by running the wvo blend down low and filling the tank with diesel and then running that out, its supposed to clean everything up and help control coking. It seems to b working. I drove the Mercedes on the single tank blend with no fuel heat 100 miles down Interstate 95 one way to Sumter SC 4 Xmas and back 100 miles in that freak snowstorm we had and the temp was 20 degrees without the wind chill figured in and I perked right along at 65mph with no gelling or problem!!! My grease car is the BOMB!!!! LOL
 
AK the xylene and turpentine and some others are to make starting easier and to help with polymerzation. They r added @ very amall quantities like 1/2 to one ounce per 5 gallon. It does help, I tried them but dont use them because they affect the lubricity and instead use Power Service Diesel clean and cetane improver since it also cleans the soot and coke up.
 
Go ahead and use it in a DB2, an old mercedes, an old powerjoke or cummins...

Put it into a DS4 at your own peril.

ANY used oil in a DS4 has a pretty good chance of messing up the optic sensor, and any contaminants in our IPs with those close tolerances is just bad, bad, bad. We have to put extra lubricant in there to compensate for ULSD, remember?

I've told people this over and over on the old site, and somebody always wants to try because they heard from somebody else who runs it in their old Ford. And it always ends the same way...
 
Hmmm seems like zylene and benzene are used in gasoline as a octane booster??? Not sure. Anyway AK here is my Mercedes setup, the pic with the resistance injection line heaters also shows my fist beside the tiny stock spin on 10 micron filter 4 size reference. The orange stuff wrapping the injectors is silicone tape, it electrically insulates the resistance heaters from shorting out, they r easy to make from mig welding wire. The tape is also good to 5000 degrees. Those heaters get hot FAST, hey one end is hooked to a ground and the other end to straight 12 volts!!! Burn a crease in ur finger like ZAP!!! LOL The other pic is the clear prefilter. Of course I had to include a pic of my faded chocolate brown 1975 240D Mercedes! It only has 60000 miles on it. It belonged to a lil ole lady in Charlotte NC, seriously, she died and it sat in the weeds forever because her nephew got it and the lil 4 cylinder engine is a slow dog in the flatlands here where I live..... its a real slow pig in the hills! LOL
 

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I probably won't get a chance to see it until tuesday evening. I'd like an overall test to see what's in it and how much of what etc.
 
I test mine for water by the frying pan test, take a frying pan and put a Z like Zorro of the oil on the pan with ur finger and put the pan on the stove and turn it on high, if u get a few very small bubbles that go away u r all right and can use it. If u get a lot of bubbles u r not all right cause thats water and if it actually pops and cracks u got a lot of water. Let it settle longer test again and maybe the water goes away. If not u can do things to get rid of the water but to be honest the secret to this is rigid testing etc. If I cant settle the water out then its emulsified and suspended and I dump it or give it to people to burn brush. Jifaire is right ur DS4 wont like it, I know of no one that runs it with a DS4, but u must know that biodiesel has a gold or brownish tint that will mess with the optic sensor, what u guys gonna do when the States make biodiesel blends mandatory, Mn and others are that way now???? Hey my friends running wvo in several hundred thousand dollars worth of John Deeres and other farmers here been running it for years. Hey the Ford Powerstroke 7.3 uses a DB2 exactly like ours but it turns the opposite direction and they r supposed to be great 4 wvo. And the military hummers with 6.2 and 6.5s are supposed to be able to run off any petroleum product they can find on the battlefield, tranny fluid, motor oil, whatever. When I was a district mgr for Southern States in Md and Del I had a contract to supply off spec diesel and number three fuel oil to a military test contractor associated with the University of Delaware to make sure the military vehicles could run off it. Number three diesel is so thick u gotta order a tanker load from Delaware City Refining as a "Hot Load" its heated at the load rack and delivered right away b4 it cools and u cant get it out of the tanker, looks loke black syrup but cut it with some k-1, brake fluid,gas etc and those GM diesel hummers can run off it!!!!
 
I got prob 400 gal of used oil,been thinking of buying a spinner filter to clean it and put it trough my 4-53 in my cockshutt and belarus.
I think biggest problem is cooking it up cheap hot enough to pump it trough the spinner.
 
I'm not trying to or planning on running this stuff thru my truck. I was only looking at it for an additive, can't find bio around here. Simon just use a wood fire that you can regulate the heat to or away from a steel drum
 
I ran blends with used motor oil that I would pump off the top of my 55 gal drum in my old 90 F250 for yrs. Water & metals are the risk IMO. I never ran it without letting it sit for at least a month & then I would pump it off the top & let it set another month in a new barrel before a 2nd filtering. I used to use 1 gal to 5 of diesel mixes, my old ford never skipped a beat. I used a 5 micron oil filter (old ones from my Harley Davidson).
 
I hear that everytime using WMO comes up. Where is the "metal in the oil" coming from?
 
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