Warped HVAC center vent fix

[millsroger]

Have a new to me 94 Silverado and the center HVAC vents had a problem, one loose, other would not move.

Took the panel out, unsnaps from the bottom, found the frame around the vents warped and the ends of the vents also warped. Caused one of the vents to pop out of position and one of the springs to bind up the other. Thankfully both springs were still there.

A good DIY fix:

Go to DQ and get a blizzard or milkshake--enjoy but keep the straw.
While enjoying, use a 1/1/6" drill by hand and drill the center of the outer pins 1/8"
The pins are the ones away from the adjuster knob.
Cut a couple of inches from the straw and cut it lengthwise.
It collapses on itself and will slip on the vent pin.
While on the pin, wrap it with scotch tape.
Cut the taped straw half way up the tape and then at the top of the tape.
Put the second piece on the pin for the other vent.
Mix up some JB weld, (liquid steel type).
Add a glop of JB in each straw about 1/8" to 3/16" deep, let cure overnite.
Put a 1/4" id washer on each extended pin.
Insert the vents, outside pin first and wiggle them down and in.
They will now be snug in the frame.
Re-install the springs----done.

Mine work perfectly now.

 

[handcannon]

Got any pics of this fix? I've never really paid any attention to what my 94 looks like on the back side of that panel.

What part of Oregon you in?

Don

 

[millsroger]

No pics. Don't have pic shrink software. What happens after 18 years of heater fan is the ends of the vents bow inward and the frame bows outward. Pivot pins pop out or the spring jumps off the pin. They either flop around or jam. The thumb wheel is in the center and has the spring so extenting that pin would put side force and the JB might not hold.

I live in above Bonanza on Bly mountain east of the 30 mile marker on !40.

Some info to add about my truck, took two RPO code tags, has a 180 Tstat, 190 Fan, HD rad, oil cooler on drivers side with big tranny cooler on passenger side, and power steering cooler in the middle. Two tone Autumnwood metallic with Sport two tone beige striping and cloth interior and 60/40 seat. Was special order with "badge delete", out of dealer in Portland. Only emblem is the one in the chrome grille. About the only option it does not have is the overhead console. It has 245k on it and runs perfect. Came with a crated AMG L65 and 4L80E. Got it in a trade, my "cost" about $2k. My first Chevy truck in a long time and my first diesel truck ever, so far I am tickled to tears.

 

[millsroger]

BTW, if you open it up, another thing to check is the heater/defroster door. It is inside and below the opening kind of in and down. I used a shop mirror and lite, cycled the system and watched the door. They have a rubber seal around them that gets kind of melted and can stick to the sides, or the plastic melts and they can jam or even drop out of position. I saw a post about this. Mine was OK.

 

[handcannon]

Thanks for the tip. I'll try to remember to check it next time I open up the dash.

Another thing I've read about is an inadequate ground for the heater motor which can cause a melt down of some of the heater wiring/connector behind the glove box I've read of those who have added extra ground wires to try to keep the melt down from happening. I do have a "birdie" chirping in my heater motor on occasion so I do need to do something sooner than later.

Don