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Voltage not steady, drops at night when lights are on,code 36 culprit?

Foehammer

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Hey guys, havent been on here in a long while, been laid up on disability. Anyways here is my problem:


Problem: Explain your problem in concise language (ie: Cranks but won’t fire). Throws code 36 only when headlights are on, voltage meter shows less than 14, prob less than 12 at night. heard somewhere low voltage could cause code 36____________________________

Demographics: tell us about your truck and your ambient conditions:

- Year: 1994
- Truck model and class (ie: c2500)K1500
- Automatic or Standard: Auto
- Mileage: (indicate miles or km) 200K Miles
- Replaced parts and mods (IP, PMD, chip/PCM, TM, injectors etc) Dtech PMD bumper mounted, turbomaster, hiflow air filter, new plugs, new injectors Egr delete, air plenum casting removal-
Model: ‘S’ or ‘F’ engine, NA or Turbo, EGR? Egr deleted
- Ambient outside temp: (indicate *C or *F) 40* at night 60* day F
- What fuel are you using? (#1 Diesel, #2 Diesel, Bio, VO, WVO, etc) #2 diesel
- What fuel additives are you using? 1/2 qt 30wt, amsoil cetane booster, amsoil diesel treatment, every tank
- Where are you located? Las Cruces NM

General maintenance: inspect and evaluate the condition of each. When were they last changed?
- Air filter cleaned and reoiled recentlly
- Fuel filter New
- CDR Valve? 2yrs old
- Coolant – last flushed/replaced at don't know
- Oil – synthetic/regular, changed at regular 2months ago
- Batteries – state of charge, (matched set) replaced at Charged up, matched, 4 months old
- Battery cables and grounds (removed, cleaned and tightened):
- Glow Plugs - how many miles on them? less than 1500 milesWhat type? Bosch Extended glow
- Injectors - last changed at less than 1500 miles ago


History: (Describe how the problem first appeared.)
- What were you doing when it happened? driving
- How was the truck running fine before this problem appeared?running fine
- Has this problem ever happened before? yes
- Describe any related factors that might be part of the problem. driving at night with lights on
- Have you checked for DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes)? (Y.N) YAnd? code 36


Diagnostics:

1] Starting:
1a] Does the engine start? Y
1b] Does the engine crank over? y

1c] Are your batteries fully charged? y
1d] Have you removed, cleaned, and tightened all battery connections? y
1e] Does your Wait to Start light come on for a time?y How long? 10 secs
1f] Does your glow plug light come on? y For how long? 10 secs
1g] Do you see smoke from the exhaust while cranking? yWhat color? white 1/2 sec then black 1/2 sec ill warms up1h] Does the Service Engine Light Glow during Start/bulb check? y

2] Fuel Issues (if not running):
2a] Can you hear your lift pump working? ____________
2b] Do you get a steady flow of fuel from the water drain (T-handle) ? _________
2c] Loosen the inlet line from the IP – is fuel coming out (Lift Pump on)? ___________
2d] Loosen an injector line and crank the engine - does fuel come out? _________
2e] Do you hear a vacuum (hiss) when you remove the fuel cap? ___________

3] PMD / IP Issues
3a] Location of PMD (on pump, on intake, remote mounted) remote mount
3b] Condition of Extension harness (if used) Vendor or Homemade? new harness
3c] Condition of grounds / ground wires to IP / PMD. Check Harness. seems ok3d] PMD Make: Dtech
3e] PMD Age: 2yrs

4] Stalling Issues
4a] Do you experience stalling only when hot? no
4b] Does it stall under particular circumstances? (ie hit bump, or on accel) n
4c] Does pouring cool water over the IP seem to help with restarting? n/a
4d] Is stalling momentary (engine recovers)? _________
4e] Does SES light come on when engine hiccups? _________
4f] Does cruise control quit working when engine hiccups? ___________
4g] Does re-starting seem to reset engine, restoring cruise and power? _________
4h] Changes to dash lights or instruments during stalling events? ___________

5] Running Issues
5a] On cold start, does upper rad hose get hard before engine warms up? n
5b] Any bubbles or oil film in coolant overflow tank? n
5c] Any white slime on oil surfaces (dipstick, CDR, oil Fill cap)? n
5d] Excessive white smoke from exhaust on cold start? n
5e] Excessive black smoke from exhaust under hard acceleration? n

6] Performance Issues
6a] Do you have gauges (boost, EGT) ? boost gauge
6b] Maximum boost under load? around 10 psi
6c] Have you added a performance PCM (reflash) or Chip? n
6d] Have you changed exhaust / downpipe / crossover? n
6e] Wastegate – mechanical or vacuum (OEM)? Turbomaster

7] Temperature-related Issues:
7a] Single or dual thermostats? single
7b] Have you replaced them lately? Manufacturer of replacements? last yr, dont know
7c] Have you pulled and cleaned Radiator and coolers lately? no
7d] Have you replaced the fan clutch? Manufacturer of replacement? no
7e] (winter) Have you tested your antifreeze? Good to what temp? __________
7f] (winter) Are you using a winter grille cover? ___________

List and describe any other factors which are not addressed in this checklist. We can’t see, hear, smell, or touch your truck, so the more descriptive information you can give, the more likely it is that somebody can assist you.

Anyways I heard somewhere that low voltage can trick the pcm into code 36, dont remember where i heard it. This only seems to happen at night when my headlights are on and my voltage isnt' steady at 14 or above, even during the day, it fluctuates between 12 and 14, but at night it drops below 12 sometimes, could my voltage be the culprit?:skep:
 
Did a ground clean and check about 4months ago when iput new batteries in, A code 36 is injection pulse width, usually indicating injection pump issues. last time ihad this problem swapped pcm chips and prob went away, but the chip is less than 2yr old., and only throws a code at night when the headlights are on and voltage is low-12 or less.
 
will check votlage with a digital meter soon but pretty sure my voltage is low as everytime my lights are on the voltage drops significantlly
day time drops happen when i use my radio, but the voltage drop is not as significant as when the headlights arre being used.
 
Load test the battery ONE AT A TIME. New battery is not immune from defect.

Next, check the cables, I suspect there is inside corrosion that you may have not seen.
I know we are in denial that it is bad sometimes when we see a bulging cables, white powder, etc.

Last but not least, the alternator. Do you see your tach going erratic?
 
Code 35 and 36 are more or less generic codes. If anthing is wrong it will set 35 and 36. Low voltage will set those codes. Other things that don't lite the check engine light can cause a 35 and 36. As mentioned, positive battery cable is suspect. Test voltage at the alternater with full load.
 
Franko i have not changed the postive cable to the alternator, what size is recommended?
JMJnet and bk95td how do I load test my batteries? I will check my batt cables to see if there is any bulging or white powder corrosion. The tach seems to move smoothly with acceleration and decelaeration. Thanks for the replies guys.
 
There are 3 reasons for low voltage.
Bad connection.
Weak or bad alternator
Too much current draw including from (a) failing battery(s).

Bad connection could include a short. Do all the lights work? How is the battery to main bus wire? Does it go between the exhaust to the main bus or is it on the driver's side? Wire tends to short out at the battery tray or burn up between the block / exhaust / starter. Checking all connections can't be stressed enough. Also check the fuse connections for corrosion. The gauge fuse connections gave me some issues on my 1993...

You could benefit from the parts store generic test of the charging system and batts. Sometimes the alternator goes weak before it quits. I would check the above before throwing parts at it though. New problems mean you start over troubleshooting and assume nothing is good. Just because you just replaced part x doesn't mean part x is the right one or works any better...
 
Thanks for the advice WarWagon, I will try and get those thing checked out tommorrow, and take it by Pep Boys for a charging system /batt check on monday.
 
My batt terminals looked mint on my old 2000 and it wouldn't start in the parking lot. I went to wiggle the cables and the positive one pulled right out of the terminal. Check 'em again.
 
Pepboys should be able to load test the battery for you.

Make sure you take the battery cable that goes from one to the other so you only load test one at a time.
 
Every 6.5 owner should have one of these in their tool kit not the most exacting tool, but good enough to place a decent load on batteries to let you know if you need to take someplace to do a full load test. Harbor freight normal price $19 on sale from time to time for $15

It is not impossible to have 1 weak/bad battery from the pair, which will pull down the other one, also cause "alternator death" if this weak battery remains in system long enough, cold or very hot weather is when "weak" battery issues crop up.

It may cost a little more but for max reliability always replace the batteries in pairs, and from same mfg lot/date group. Weak battery can stress good one so that is my preference to replace both of them at same time.

I like the Autozone Duralast Gold 1000 CCA rated battery, 7 yr warranty 1st 3 years 100% replacement, with pro-rate after that.


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Guys thanks again for the responses. I will have to get one of those battery testers from harbor freight and keep it on me. Franko thanks for the wire gauge chart. I am currently running ProStart Platinums from Pep Boys, they have 3yr warranty and road side assistance, replaced them about 3 months ago. From looking at my battery cables , they look ok no swelling but some powdery corrosion at the contacts again after I cleaned them 3 months ago. gonna have to replace them all I think just to be safe, and up date the ground wires etc.. Will try to get into town next couple of days and get my batts checked at Pep Boys.
 
Ok I think I got it fixed. The wire coming from the alternator was only 10awg, so I replaced it with a 4awg, and when doing so found the allternator post was loose. So I took that off and took it apart, and cleaned up the contact points on the spindle, and tightened up the nut to the alternator post, that you can only get to by taking apart the alternator :p. Test drove the truck , and am showing 14.06V with the headlights and radio on. Oh yeah, this is also the original alternator, 105amp Delco Remy, so I dont think 14.06V is too bad. I am going to add another 4awg wire going to the passnger side batt just for extra current, and will be replacing the
alternator with a high output model, SS diesel has one thats 120amp for $99.95, and AlternatorParts.com has two versions 140amp for $159.99 and a 170 amp for $199.99, any thoughts, should the 120amp be sufficient?
 
You shuld do the battery bolt mod if you havn't already.

I wonder if I should add another wire to my batts as I have about 50 marker light bulbs and plow heavy draw.

I think I will this HOliday weekend!

How many AMPS does a 105a alternator actually put out during normal driving? Can't be 105.
 
no, im pretty sure that the full 105 amps is at approx 5000 rpms. if i remember right, normal driving we only see around 60-80 amps due to the low speed of the diesels
 
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