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Vin S solenoid testing procedure?

sorry i have no clue as to ur question but i do have a question for u if thats alright. the F engine or S engine is noted in the VIN??? how can i tell if its a s or f. and wondering if the heads are the same on the two different engines???
 
The 8th digit of your vin no. will be a S or F. There are other letters for N.A. and vans.

The heads are the same with the exception of the precups.
 
Well, I'm taking an educated guess here, but I believe that the solenoid is controlled by 12v pulses from the ECM, and that it controls the amount of vacuum from the vacuum pump that is delivered to either the EGR or the vacuum wastegate. Without taking a oscilloscope to the input signal, it's going to be hard to replicate that input signal, but you could simply hang a scope on the input leads and see what's going on.

They do go dead on regular basis, so you could also gamble the $35-40 bucks and just replace the suspect one.

-Rob :)
 
x2!!!

It is not like it is a $1000 part, not even $100. While I don't agree to just throw parts at it, it is probably something that is not worth to test it. In other words, the cost of testing is more than the cost of the parts.

It is a different story if you have access to those testing tools already but then, if you do, you probably won't ask how to test them.
 
Well so far I have a new Baro sensor, new Boost Solenoid, new GP controller.

The code it starts out with is and it's not consistent is 33 when it feels like throwing it.

I just wanted to know what the parameters are that must be exceeded for the PCM to send code 33. What are the solenoids supposed to be doing when at idle vs acceleration?

It appears that I have figured out what the EGR solenoids should be doing by watching the GMTD scan EGR duty cycle & comparing them to the desired EGR psi vs the actual.

I have already checked & cleaned all grounds, this buying parts is starting to get a little friggin old.

This BS keeps up and this truck is going to be history!
 
I know how you feel.

The only things about the EGR and Turbo are their use of the vacuum pump.
Unfortunately, the EGR is controlled by the EGR solenoid. I am not sure but you may want to look at eliminating the EGR like most people who has S engine do.

Have you checked for bad vacuum tubes that can cause leak? This is old truck, the hoses are very brittle.
 
Yup all new vacuum hoses & the vacuum pump is pulling 26”

I made some progress with it yesterday, I HOPE :smile5:

Not holding back info but I am hesitant to post anything because every time I think that this issue is repaired…it raises it's ugly head again :confused:

Very frustrating...not to mention there seems to be very little interest here.
 
Crankme69 said:
Yup all new vacuum hoses & the vacuum pump is pulling 26”

I made some progress with it yesterday, I HOPE :smile5:

Not holding back info but I am hesitant to post anything because every time I think that this issue is repaired…it raises it's ugly head again :confused:

Very frustrating...not to mention there seems to be very little interest here.
Click to expand...

That's not true bud, many will read, only someone with something to add will respond. Tell us what you did :)
 
Crankme, if I recall correctly, it was suspected very early in this little adventure that your solenoid was faulty... at least a couple of people suggested that you change it.

You also got some good ideas on how to test for vacuum, on checking your wastegate, and on looking for bad lines. Lots of people also asked questions, trying to get a better handle on what YOU were the only person in a position to see/hear/test... internet diagnosis is difficult, and the veterans around here wait to hear back from the tests you have been told to run before they start asking more questions...

I think it's more than a little unfair of you to suggest that there "seems to be very little interest here".

If you would like, we can toss wild guesses at you and suggest you change random parts. :) Wouldn't be very effective, but it would look like we cared more.
 
JIM,

I never said stated that no one "CARED". My quote was "little interest".

Are ya into kicking someone when their down? I also believe that I stated more then a couple times how frustrated I am...I have been chasing this issue around now for about 2 weeks or better. Oh & electrical issues ohms and such is not my favorite fish to catch.

My guess for the lack of interest here is the EGR system is prolly one of the first things that will get bypassed or chipped out & removed all together & I for sure am headed down that very path. I just wanted to be sure that I did not have a PCM / electrical gremlin or ground issue that was looming in my wiring / system.

I verified the solenoids as suggested more then a couple times for function, but when codes are being thrown inconsistently and at random it's not always easy to catch the fish while it's still bearing it's teeth, know what I mean:confused:

Thanks :mad2::mad2::mad2:
 
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Crankme69 said:
JIM,

I never said stated that no one "CARED". My quote was "little interest".

Are ya into kicking someone when their down? I also believe that I stated more then a couple times how frustrated I am...I have been chasing this issue around now for about 2 weeks or better. Oh & electrical issues ohms and such is not my favorite fish to catch.

My guess for the lack of interest here is the EGR system is prolly one of the first things that will get bypassed or chipped out & removed all together & I for sure am headed down that very path. I just wanted to be sure that I did not have a PCM / electrical gremlin or ground issue that was looming in my wiring / system.

I verified the solenoids as suggested more then a couple times for function, but when codes are being thrown inconsistently and at random it's not always easy to catch the fish while it's still bearing it's teeth, know what I mean:confused:

Thanks :mad2::mad2::mad2:
Click to expand...

That sounds like faulty ground gremlins. I'd go over each and every one, removing, wire brushing and re-installing ALL grounds. TD has a good ground thread.
 
So, Crankme, sounds like you may want to at least try to buy one more parts. The dreaded EGR Solenoid to follow Jeff (JiFaire) advice.

It is around $30, beats buying an osciloscope for $1000. A lot of people burnt more than $30 going to the ballgame or movie.
 
I hear ya and I have been all over the grounds on this thing cleaned & ohm checked before & after to no avail...no ohm resistance before or after cleaning.

The only thing that I have found recently & is reproducibly consistent is the center EGR solenoid does not function after it gets hot, not hot wired or from the PCM and there is power 12V supply there & ground source checks from the PCM, that starts the EGR code-athon 32 & sometimes 31 & 33.

No biggie right? I mean just EGR stuff...well not exactly! This EGR code 32 screws up the barometric atmospheric pressure reading. Seems & this is an assumption on my part that the baro sensor goes into dummy mode after I get code 32 and that fudges up my wastegate duty cycle... arrrg.

Currently I have the vacuum hose bypassing the center EGR sol, it's still setting an occasional erratic EGR code but it is not triggering my baro sensor to read the default 11.1 atmospheric pressure reading like this.

Now ya know what I have gathered & that is all conjecture on my part self diagnoses & learnings from watching GMTD Scan and trying to figure this out. I could be all wet, that's why I hesitated to post my findings...

The center EGR sol will be changed out...I'm waiting for it to arrive, seems senseless for me to spend money on it & change out a solenoid that does nothing but I'm gonna do it to assure my findings. :mad2::mad2:
 
Good work. The manual doesnt say anything about code 32 setting a default baro reading, driving a 100% boost solenoid duty cycle.

So you either have some strange complication, or the computer no longer trusts the baro because vacuum gauge isnt showing what it expects and it doesnt know that the supply solenoid is bad.

You may have discovered a new oddity in S engine programming.
 
Crankme69... you are probably correct in that most get rid of egr. But it is also very likely most have the 3/4 ton rigs that don't have egr at all. With egr you have 3 times the problems because you have the egr dump solenoid too, right? I'm with these guys in leaning toward replacing solenoids. Make sure you have the right part in the right spot. They are color coded with little round colored decals. My experience with these things is that they are like the flu... you'll go years without problems, but then it seems like you get it again and again. Just because they are new, doesn't mean they are reliable. After I quit washing the dust out of the engine bay, most of my problems went away. I was never so happy to install an ATT and a KD chip... AND throw those solenoids under the bus!! Keep your chin up and speak well of your elders, when this is done, I'm hopeful we can all have a good laugh. And everyone will be just a little bit smarter. Don't let this little thing beat you, I've read alot of stuff here and these guys seem to play this stuff as though they hate to loose. Or perhaps, they like the challenge?
 
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