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Veggie oil performance vs $$$

dragogt

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I've done enough reading to Know theres AN improvement w/ the ATT. And I plan getting one (hopefully) the ball bearing version will be out by time I'm ready. I was actually asking about the veg-oil, that 635 was talking about running on the dyno.

I'll rephrase the ?? Other than $$ saved by running wvo, would there by any performance gains by using it??
 
I moved this question/discussion to it's own thread as it's good discussion but did not want to have it hiddeen in the ATT thread, will keep it active in 6.5 for a while and eventually move it to the fluids/vo area
 
Well, assuming that WVO has a similar energy density as biodiesel (I'm not sure), it appears that WVO would have about 10% less energy than #2 diesel. This translates to 10% lower fuel economy.

Since people are reporting 10% gains with ATT, it appears the 2 would cancel out.

-Rob :)
 
I moved this question/discussion to it's own thread as it's good discussion but did not want to have it hiddeen in the ATT thread, will keep it active in 6.5 for a while and eventually move it to the fluids/vo area

Thats cool No prob.
 
I run bio-fuel quite often. It does cost a bit more but the injector rattle isn't there as much. And I have to drive about 30 minutes out of my way to get this fuel. A few years back I was talking with Bill Heath on the phone and he told me to start adding a quart of 30 weight oil to my fuel every time I fueled up. This was because of the lack of lubricity that was in the 'NEW' diesel at the time. I'm not sure how much lubricity is in this new fuel so I still add a quart of 30 weight to each tank. And the bio-fuel smells better! I can't really tell how much more or less performance there is with using the bio-fuel to diesel because my engine is still pretty tight. When the time comes to hit the rollers I should find out what changes add horsepower.
 
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Take your pick, I was referring to wvo. But anything gos now, BIO, WVO, WMO, if its other than "LSD" its fair game.
 
I run both always. B100 in the diesel tank that I make, and V100 in the frybrid veggie tank mounted to the frame, also of which I make.

Mileage will suffer for sure, but 16 mpg on free fuel is better than 18 on bought stuff. Power will suffer slightly as well. I've found the power and mileage of B100 and V100 to be the same, and ULSD to have more kick to it. I try to buy diesel twice a year.

The 6.5 is a wonderful biofuels motor. I have a friend with 60k+ veg miles on his burb, and the IP is running great. I've got about 30k on mine, just pulled the heads and everything looks super. Just like anything else, it needs super clean and dry fuel.

I've just switched my vegetable cleaning system over to "cold upflow." Meaning, I use no electricity to filter it, just gravity and a couple filters. It really works slick.

And the best reason to convert, no middle eastern money from me. Rotten buggars. The second best reason, emissions. The emissions guy just loves my super modded burb with flow through exhaust. Even with the Heath chip, it passes with flying colors.

Any questions, ask. As you can see, I can yak about this all day.

Good luck.
 
There are different chemical properties between the WVO and B100. Although, theoretically, the come from the same source.

B100 is already a diesel while WVO is still veggie oil with all the glycerin and water.
 
I run both always. B100 in the diesel tank that I make, and V100 in the frybrid veggie tank mounted to the frame, also of which I make.

Mileage will suffer for sure, but 16 mpg on free fuel is better than 18 on bought stuff. Thats my thoughts Power will suffer slightly as well. I've found the power and mileage of B100 and V100 to be the same, and ULSD to have more kick to it. I try to buy diesel twice a year.

The 6.5 is a wonderful biofuels motor. I have a friend with 60k+ veg miles on his burb, and the IP is running great. I've got about 30k on mine, just pulled the heads and everything looks super. Just like anything else, it needs super clean and dry fuel.

Cool thats good to know.

I've just switched my vegetable cleaning system over to "cold upflow." Meaning, I use no electricity to filter it, just gravity and a couple filters. It really works slick.

More info please, that has my attention.


And the best reason to convert, no middle eastern money from me. Rotten buggars. Now thats what I'm talkin about The second best reason, emissions. The emissions guy just loves my super modded burb with flow through exhaust. Even with the Heath chip, it passes with flying colors. Afaik diesels are exempt here.



Any questions, ask. As you can see, I can yak about this all day.



Good luck.

No prob, I get a kick out of this stuff.

There are different chemical properties between the WVO and B100. Although, theoretically, the come from the same source.

B100 is already a diesel while WVO is still veggie oil with all the glycerin and water.

Usually WVO and BIO do come from the "same" source, bio has just been "refined" into diesel. jmho
 
No prob, I get a kick out of this stuff.



Usually WVO and BIO do come from the "same" source, bio has just been "refined" into diesel. jmho

Here is an excellent link to a diagram of the cold upflow system I am using. I am able to make about 15 gallons a day, with no input at all, just pour and go.

I believe you should spend the money when converting on the right kit. For a 6.5, there is no substitution for Frybrid. I know Chris Goodwin well, and his setup for the 6.5 is worth every penny.

http://www.frybrid.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2119&stc=1&d=1193006636

See frybrid.com/forum for more info.

Patrick
 
Thats pretty cool. No drain for the water/ dirty oil?

My only issue is where to mount the tank on the bronco.
 
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