Valve Covers

[toddlnrd]

I need to replace the valve cover gaskets. I see "tons" of oil that looks to be coming from the valve covers.

Is there a gasket other than the Felpro cork gasket? I might as well get the best if there is a better one out there.

Also, it probably would be a good time to change out the injectors.

How difficult of a job is it to change the valve cover gaskets?

Thanks,
Todd

 

[ak diesel driver]

hardest part is removing the inj lines don't use a gasket just use the "right stuff"

 

[bison]

The best gasket is just a 1/8 to 3/16" bead of Black RTV silicone.
For best result,scrape all old gasket off clean from head and cover,straiten out the covers mating surface,clean mating surface with brakeclean,apply the RTV bead(go around bolt holes),.. let cure for 10 min,..lay cover on head,..hand tighten bolts,.let cure for an hr,.. and torque the bolts.

Its allmost a must to get the inj lines out of the way in order not to disturb the silicone bead on the cover when installing the it,.doing so might cause a leak later.
Alternatly one could apply the silicone to the head as well.

 

[toddlnrd]

I was going to replace the injectors at the same time anyway. So they should not be in the way. Does the turbo need to be removed?

I am a little nervous about not using a gasket. What about using a little bit of RTV on either side of the gasket?

Todd

 

[ak diesel driver]

I think you'll find there is no gasket from the OEM

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

I am building a 2005 GEP take out motor now, when I got it and started taking it apart, I found that there is not ANY gaskets on the motor at all, the factory used RTV for all the places that a gasket went... follow the info Bison stated and you will not have a leak....

 

[3500GMC]

I've not used 'the right stuff'.. seen it used, looks like it'd do the trick..

Black RTV here.. No problems at all. 6.2 is built exclusively with Permatex Black RTV. The only gasket is on the IP.

 

[Paveltolz]

No gaskets on it when I pulled my leaking valve cover. Followed same advice given by bison, no issues in two years.

 

[toddlnrd]

Wow, looks like no gaskets then.

Thanks all.

Does the turbo need to be removed to do valve covers and/or injectors?

Todd

 

[jmiller]

The best gasket is just a 1/8 to 3/16" bead of Black RTV silicone.
For best result,scrape all old gasket off clean from head and cover,straiten out the covers mating surface,clean mating surface with brakeclean,apply the RTV bead(go around bolt holes),.. let cure for 10 min,..lay cover on head,..hand tighten bolts,.let cure for an hr,.. and torque the bolts.

Its allmost a must to get the inj lines out of the way in order not to disturb the silicone bead on the cover when installing the it,.doing so might cause a leak later.
Alternatly one could apply the silicone to the head as well.

2x

It is absolutely important to clean the matting surfaces. Use a razor on the head to clean the left over gasket, wire wheel the valve covers.

Use a cloth with brakeclean, wiping down the sides from the edges of the matting surface about a 1/4". This prevents oil from contaminating the mating surface and adds to the contact surface for the extruded rtv to stick to. Wipe until the rag is clean as you go around. I like to use Scott wipes, they are very absorbent and don't lint nearly as bad as other products. (they seem to love diesel oil)


Cleanliness is next to godliness, contamination equals leaks.



I had to replace the valve covers on my reman'd engine due to shipping damage. The builder used RTV, I did the same. +20K miles and not a sign of any leaks.

They can be done without removing the turbo, but is is a real pain.

Cover the injectors with a cap to prevent dirt from getting in them. Aluminum foil would work. How many miles are on your injectors? If close to 100k, consider rebuilding them.
If you don't replace the injectors, get some return line to replace them. If they are hardened, they will get cracked and leak when your done. Get the good push to lock braided return line.

 

[Paveltolz]

Many an injector swap guru will do the job without removing the turbo. Mere mortal such as myself find it "easier" to swap the injectors with the Turbo removed. Some prefer to remove the inner fender well too. To loosen the injector lines, you're going to have to remove the upper and lower air intakes. Might as well get out the 10, 11, 13, 14 and 15mm wrenches/sockets along with injector socket (I forget the size of that one). Dig out some electrical cleaner / degreaser and to do the grounds while you're in there mucking about. You have to remove the one's on the passenger side back by the fire wall as well as the negative battery grounds to get the lower intake off.

I think it is an 18mm for the injector lines and a boxed open end or modified wrench is ideal; crows foot helps too.

Do some stretches first, you're going to be in there a while and the stress from the odd angles will visit you for a couple of days afterwards if you don't take care of yourself.

Some links to point you in the right direction.

Technical Library

Grounds

Injector swap

Have fun, let us know how it goes.

 

[jmiller]

BTW,

Does anyone have a good online source for the good braided return line?

I always get it from a local shop, but for some, it may not easily found.

 

[matuva]

We use black rtv only. The few times we used the felpro gasket ended in leaks.

You can do injectors and covers without removing the turbo, once trained or if you get time and a good "reservoir" of cursing words :hihi: I prefer pulling out the turbo, with the help of the 15mm timing wrench (very handy). Usually the hour I spend in pulling out the turbo is worth peace of my nerves

 

[OrionThade]

I bought a 30 MM deep socket that tapers on the ratchet end just enough to give some clearance between the socket and the right side exhaust manifold.

If you're not using the specialty injector socket, then be sure to take care removing and installing the injector as to not damage the return line nipples. Damaging those requires replacement of the injector.

2x on the RTV route.

ETA: I always wipe down the mating surfaces really well with acetone before applying the RTV. I've never had a leak doing that.