vacum pump died

[iviper123]

my vacum pumphas died well the pulley has szied , the pulley was hitting the vacum pump body, what is the best route to go with a stock truck, id go vacum pump, but what if the pulley is unusable, no one has one avlaible. can i run the short belt without the vacum pump for now?

 

[JMJNet]

If you want to keep the vacuum system, then you just have to replace the whole vacuum pump.

Otherwise, TurboMaster may be the best solutions.

I am not sure if you can run with a seized pulley. Logically, you probably cannot do it but the master here may have different suggestions.

 

[vegtech]

Turbo master and ditch the pump

 

[Missy Good Wench]

Use a Turbo master and and set the boost level to about 5-6 PSI maximum and it will be fine.

If you go with too much boost the ECM will scream about it and set a code and defuel the thing. (Key off and back on will reset things)

The TM is the ticket to far less issues.

Install a boost gauge so you can see where you are. a Pyro is a good idea too.


Missy

 

[625fireman]

iviper123 I have a stock vaccuum pump that I can ship to you for $50. If you want to keep it factory, I would however go with the manual wastegate control myself, Let me know if you want it.

 

[iviper123]

whats is the easy way to get the old vacuum pump off?

 

[ak diesel driver]

3 bolt thru the holes in the pulley easy job

 

[Turbine Doc]

3 bolt thru the holes in the pulley easy job

His might be a little tougher than most as you have to rotate the pulley a little to get a socket on them, but other than X2 :thumbsup: it's normally an easy job.

If you can't rotate to access the bolts, a power steering pump puller is best way to get the pulley off, which you have to reuse some times if the vendor sells you just the vac pump.

Me I'd opt for a turbo master I just swapped the belt on mine had a Dayco 5060995 belt on it, that stretched in under a year past, I just installed a Goodyear Gator back 4060995 or metric
6PK2525, hopefully it will last longer than the Dayco or the Duralasts that also seem to have a short life when it comes to stretch over time.

FYI to all who may read later, when vac pump is removed depending on your set up your belt will be 1" to 1.5" shorter than the OEM belt, for future reference after you remove the vac pump and you identify which belt works for your setup.

Put the replacement p/n some place handy as a counter guy later will give you the one used with a vac pump for you model year; and you'll have to do the trial and error thing again. I took a paint marking pen and wrote the p/n for mine on the fan shroud so I'd have it for easy reference always.

 

[3bals]

Unless you already have or plan on spending the money to install all the gauges and other parts needed for the vac pump delete, I'd just replace the pump/pulley for now. :thumbsup:

 

[NVW]

If you do want a vac pump one can be had from this site vendor: http://www.pmdcable.com/VAC_PUMP.html

 

[Turbine Doc]

Unless you already have or plan on spending the money to install all ??? the gauges and other parts needed for the vac pump delete, I'd just replace the pump/pulley for now. :thumbsup:

No gauges reqd for vac pump delete, if you install a Heath TM and set it at the minimum length setting per the instructions you won't need gauges, ran that way a couple of years on the burb befoer installing my ATT on it also.

I'm confused what other parts you think it needs to delete vac pump, pump comes off and you install a shorter belt and add a TM. One could build their own TM, then you would want a boost gauge to set it, our build it and slowly add more spring tension until you set the overboost code, then back off once you find out where that set point is, but easiest plug and play is just buy a Heath TM.

 

[iviper123]

im probably going turbo master, i have a boost gauge and triple gauge a pillar but only the boost gauge so far,

thanks turbine i was going to ask for the part numbers for the shorter belt

 

[3bals]

TD,

I wasn't really thinking of tons of parts, just parts and stuff in general vs changing out
the defective pump.

You, probably like me, have been building, fixing, repairing, fabricating and experimenting with things most of our lives. Possibly because we like to and/or had to. Given that we have lots of parts and pieces in our workshops. And we only have to go to the parts bin to find a part, bolt or screw that we need. If not, we can go to the scrap metal pile, find something close enough, cut it out, bend it, drill the holes, spray some wrinkle paint on it and we have a good looking mounting bracket for a gauge that we scrounged from somewhere.

Not knowing the mechanical knowledge and/or ability of the OP or the other readers and/or
parts they may already have, I just figured it would be the easiest fix. As long as the
rest of the system is functional.

Yes, a boost gauge may or may not be needed, but if you're going to start doing mods and
upgrades, you might as well start putting it all together. Boost, EGT and Tranny gauges.
Then you need some sort of mounting system for the gauges. Then there is wires, fuse holders and other related things to get them all mounted up securely. Then of course there's the TM, whether homemade or bought. You have to take the vacuum actuator off the turbo and mount up the TM. Then you have to adjust it, either with the boost gauge or by experimenting. Then find the right belt for your truck.

It's not that I against a TM, any experimenting or homemade mods, I just thought unbolting the old vacuum pump and replacing it with a working one would be the easiest and get the guy back on the road the fastest and cheapest with the least amount for fiddling around. And trust me I've done more than my share of fiddling around.

No disrespect intended.

 

[JMJNet]

It is true in most cases, except with TM, you will never have to replace the vacuum pump. The install of TM is very easy compare to replacing the vacuum pump. Although, in this case, the old Vac Pump may have to go out anyway but that is only 1 time job.