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Use old PMD or Use New PMD

Woody35

Woody35

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Chi-Town Suburbs
so i finally found some spare cash to relocate my pmd. my question is it wise to just buy a new pmd along with the heatsink and extension cable or is it fine just to use my current pmd that is in my truck right now that is on my pump.

BTW its working fine with no problems. my injection pump was replaced by the previous owner 2 or 3 years ago which i suspect was because of the pmd failure. so my current pmd is that age too. ill get my carfax out and tell you guys the exact date tommorow.
 
If your getting the kit, then use the new one if it has a long warranty, IE 7 years and keep the old one for a backup incase it goes in the middle of nowhere.
 
2-3 years of heat-bake, I personally would pull it, get a cheap heat sink and store for b/u. then buy from heath or another vendor good new pmd style like heath's. unless your around home, you never know when it could go. I would not run these engines without a b/u- cheap insurance and piece of mind.
 
I would just get the whole kit from Leroy at pmdcable.com. He sells the new grey "Bulletproof" Stanadyne or the latest D-Tech. Don't have to pay the premium for a 7 year warranty if you dont want to, and new PMDs can be found online for under $200.

And if you can, get the old one off the IP and keep it in truck for diagnostics.
 
Challenge is when you move the one that is there, you are changing its environment. I am afraid that it would give up very shortly.

I agree with everybody here to just get a complete new one and use the one there for spare and diagnostic.
 
X2,3,4 ,5 ,6 whatever number I am but use the new one, keep the old one for spare.
 
PITA getting the old one off the IP on mine; Started to take it off, and quit that :shiiiiiite: quick! Just left it there as a monument to corporate compromise and mediocrity. Kudos to Bill Heath:thumbsup: and his excellent illustrations of his bumper mounted design, made it easy for this poor dad to mimic. I give him props every chance I get, and will buy his FSD if this one ever dies.
 
There is a procedure to salvage the original functional PMD when removed for FSD service, but get the Heath (or equivalent assembly of choice) complete, save the original for spare....oops....my bad: there is no equivalent to the Heath assembly - try it, you'll like it..................
 
Hey Woody, don't know how I missed this post. Hope I answered your questions.
Thanks Buddy.
GMCTD, FYI: I also offer a 7 year warranty and am the ONLY manufacturer of the new style cable for the new Stanadyne PMD. I sell both the Dtech and the Stanadyne with available 7 year warranty. (as buddy said)
 
gmctd said:
Yours is bonded and waterproofed to the large aluminum plate?
Click to expand...

Not sure what you mean by 'bonded" ? but what difference does it make if I am the one warranting the item. Other vendors can do as they want. When you said there is no equivalent I just wanted to let everyone know about my products.
Do other vendors offer a new style cable for the new Stanadyne PMD (yet)?
Yes, I do offer a large heat sink.
Im not arguing with you I was letting you and others know what I offer.
Leroy
 
Heath's is waterproof for mounting down under the front of the truck in the road-splash stream - the FSD module is not waterproof, with it's exposed driver transistors - only the weatherpak connector is waterproof, if assembled correctly - thus the bonding question, as bonded is sealed and waterproof - and, I'm talking direct water spray - your warranty is commendable, but waterproof is reliability, eh...........
 
Waterproof is good and I would recomend it. I also recomend mounting in the front bumper as it won't see nearly the same amounts of water, but still have more than enough air flow. I really don't see the advantage of mounting on the skid plate except you might could use a shorter cable?
 
Heath's is bonded - otherwise, I suggest cleaning with lacquer-thinner to remove all oil\grease\excess thermal-compound, apply Permatex Gray RTV around the perimeter joint where the module attaches to the 'sink, squeegee-in with the little finger to achieve a 1/4" bead all-around, then RTV the screw holes in the module and 'sink - let cure and install on truck - behind center of bumper is good, similar to TD's
 
I'm using the old one

My injection pump has a date tag of 2003. I purchased a new D-Tech FSD, but I'm still running the old one in the bumper snout. I need to get another heat sink and mount the D-tech for easy swappage. I keep the D-tech in the truck now.

I really should put the D-tech on to make sure it works. I want to use the D-tech and keep the old one as backup, but I got the heatsink before the D-tech. There is a guy on Fleabay selling amp heat sink for a song; that's what I'm using. I need to get off my lazy duff and order some more.

Up in the snout, my fsd or heat sink never even gets warm. It doesn't seem there's really much heat generated from the driver itself.
 
I'm going to throw this in about the mounting surface. When the truck is parked and the engine is piping too hot to touch engine compartment, I can feel that heat radiated onto my bumper and everything else. It seems the plastic skidplate doesn't get nearly as hot as the surrounding metal materials. Not sure if that has anything to do with anything.
 
Plastics have always made better insulators than heat sinks or radiators................
 
i havent ordered the kit yet but since im too lazy right now to go crawl under the truck im just wondering where you put the cable through to get to the bumper where the heatsink and pmd will be located
 
On my kit and on your 97. From the IP to the front of engine then I like to zip tie to the a/c line going to pass side then down making sure to zip tie away from moving parts up to bumper. You can use the licence plate mounting bolt hole. The bolt I supply will replace the stock one and is long enough to go though the heat sink and bumper.
You don't need to crawl under for the install. When you get to the heat sink mounting just reach through the nostrile/s
 
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