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I thought You was looking for the location of the other schrader valve to hook the manifold gauges to.Thanks for the replies. I’ve had hoses made for my jeep yj that worked out great. Guess I be going that route again.
Not a problem.No sorry for the confusion. I need the replacement hose.
Look at the main bearing web portions of the engine block for cracks before loosening any main bearing bolts.I’m in the process of tear down to pull the motor. I’m planning a rebuild. Runs great but with 280k she’s kind of tired.
Yeah I’ll be looking for cracks for sure. Found some pro max heads seem like a good replacement. Haven’t torn into it yet.Not a problem.
Look at the main bearing web portions of the engine block for cracks before loosening any main bearing bolts.
I dont know if those stitch and seal devices will hold together the blocks in those locations but a machine shop over in Billings Montana seems to think they hold just fine.
Said he has repaired a lot of Ford 460 blocks with them and those engines is still running ten and fifteen years later.
Might be worth a try if a person runs into that shituation. Ooops, situation, yeah, thats it, situation.
I’ve been looking at replacement engines. Everything from military pull outs to optimizer and everything in between. Right now my top hose is hard and I’ve got weeping under the head. I’ll pull the pan and look for cracks. If it’s bad I’ll replace the head gaskets and run it till it gives.Yeah, at 280,000 miles I suggest pulling the pan in place and examine for cracks in main webs. If they are cracked just start looking for a younger engine or maybe saving for a new optimizer. If the mains are cracked - run it till she dies.
You had it right the first timeNot a problem.
Look at the main bearing web portions of the engine block for cracks before loosening any main bearing bolts.
I dont know if those stitch and seal devices will hold together the blocks in those locations but a machine shop over in Billings Montana seems to think they hold just fine.
Said he has repaired a lot of Ford 460 blocks with them and those engines is still running ten and fifteen years later.
Might be worth a try if a person runs into that shituation. Ooops, situation, yeah, thats it, situation.
if I'm not mistaken Vintage Air makes aftermarket complete systems for most any rig. they also will custom make one for your needs, but $$$ talks LOL. there located down here in San Antonio Texas. there's a huge crowd around these parts with the old model t's and other old school rides!Yeah- places that do hydraulic and automotive hoses is probably best answer.
With the unimpressive performance and life of these compressors, an alternative from some kind of other rig would be nice. Take those poor performing compressors and use a smaller and less flowing evaporator- then worse ducting and poof! Thats a hummer ac unit. But they add and auxiliary evaporator for the rear seats because the front is so bad. But the one they chose for it is poor. So it makes me really miss having the set up I used to when I had the same pickup as you.
There is so many of the trucks, I just can’t believe no aftermarket company hasn’t done a replacement system. Even the next series the gmt800 have same ol problems. Basically schedule a new compressor and new orings, seals, etc every 80,000 miles and it turns out the cheapest long term option for the gmt800. SMH.
We never did figure a pattern for the gmt400. Some would last 175k and others only 75k.
Heads will be needed or swapped from original if still good.Military take outs is a questionable event. When the military actually removed it- usually there ends up being a problem with it. It takes a lot longer to actually get it but imo ya might buy a running hmmwv, rip the engine out because most are optimizers now and sell off the hmmwv as a project if you don’t have use. Or if you have the space strip the parts off the hmmwv and sell them on ebay.
But it does take about 6 months from auction to when you go pick it up.
Regardless them replacing the engine you buy with a new one, you buying a running engine with a hmmwv attached, or a brand new one- still tear it down and balance the lower end. Ceramic coated bearings, gapless rings and eliminate the plastic rocker buttons. Strongly consider the main girdle. And pop it back together with new head bolts and gaskets. Don’t bother with head studs unless you are boosting up higher than 13-14 range.