turning up the boost???

[tcihla79]

well i am ready to play a little. i got a boost gauge hooked up and did some checking. if i hit it from a dead stop the boost jumps to 6 and then drops to 5 and stays there. then if i am running down the road and ease into it it will peak at 7 and then drop to 5.5 ish.

so my question is if i make a mechanical waste gate controller and turn up the boost to say about 10 wouldn't i also be in need of more ful as well. also would the increase in boost even be noticed. i ordered a feed the beast kit and will get it put in asap. my truck has 3 inch straight pipe but it still has factory downpipe which i will be replacing soon. and i also need to upgrade the air filter intake.

is there a way you can turn up the injection pump or it is what it is?

thanks guys for all your help!!!!!!

 

[bk95td]

Boost and exhaust temp gauges are the 1st things you need. Then mandrel bent 3" downpipe and 4" the rest of the way. A better air filter set up such as the 97+ k47 Then you may be ready to play with the boost. Your cooling system also needs to be in perfect working order. A HO water pump and a better fan/clutch helps also. Without the exhaust temp gauge you can meltdown the engine. Yes more fuel with more boost. A a-team turbo would also lower the exhaust temps. More power does not come cheap.

 

[fonecop1]

The increase in boost won't be noticed without an after market chip that will deliver more fuel, that's the only way to turn up the fuel on these trucks.

 

[ak diesel driver]

93 is mechanical

 

[tcihla79]

93 is mechanical

exactly, that is why i was wandering if the pump could be turned up, like you could on an old diesel tractor.

 

[Edzzed]

93 is mechanical

and it's just a qwik turn of the screwdriver form there. But as others said you NEED a boost gauge and egt gauge, You will want a bigger exhaust and that'll wake the truck up. I don't know by how much but if it's anything like an obd2 upgrade to heaths puter. WOW what a difference. here is a pic of my exhaust

[/IMG]

 

[tcihla79]

so is my 3 inch straight pipe still pretty restrictive? i know i need the down pipe and crossover.

 

[NVW]

Do the down pipe and cross over, when you can afford it do a 4" exh.

 

[Odlaw]

The increase in boost won't be noticed without an after market chip that will deliver more fuel, that's the only way to turn up the fuel on these trucks.

:icon_bs:

):h just kidding

You'll notice a good bit of difference increasing your boost...but like what was mentioned you'll need big free flowing exhaust and intake to really notice it.

Then turn the pump up for even more boost/performance.

There is a link somewhere on here to a site that has instructions on how to turn up the db2 mechanical pumps....IIRC the instructions are for a db2 on a ford but turning up a db2 is turning up a db2.

When I did mine I preferred the "from the side" method (you can do it from top by removing the top cover). It's been awhile, but I see if I can recall all the steps.......there is a small triangle shaped black plate on the drivers side of the IP, remove those teeny-tiny screws that hold it on, remove the plate, grab a inspection mirror and 'bump' the motor over until you see a allen head screw through the access hole, turn that screw clockwise (in) 1/4 turn - no more. You have to remove the upper intake to get to it.....IIRC I think I had to remove all the linkages from the drivers side of the IP
Also, make sure you use a quality allen wrench - no cheapy, made in china crap. The screw is pretty friggin hard to turn...but it will turn. I don't recall the size of the allen right now.

One more thing, do not even attempt this project without a magnetic pick up tool and an inspection mirror....trust me, you'll need both. If the valley under your intake manifold is filthy, I would clean it good before you start or you'll never find those little screws when you drop 'em ....notice I didn't say 'if' you drop 'em.

Do these mods in this order....don't turn up the pump until you do something about the exhaust and intake.

When I built my first mechanical WG control and got my boost up over 10 psi (spiking around 12) that was with stock flat style airbox (that had the snorkle-ectomy) , and 3.5" open exhaust. It spooled very slow. Installed a free flowing dual cone air filter and that fixed the slow spooling (well, a GM-3 doesn't spool real fast anyway) - but it helped. Then I turned up the pump and that livened things up quite a bit. Now with a GM-8 installed - there's really no comparison to the GM-3.

 

[minisub]

A 3" straight pipe is just fine for where you are. Change the cross over when it rots out, the stocker is fine for now. A down pipe is probably a good idea when you can get to it, and would be first on my list of those three.

Check out the 6.2 forums for help hopping up a mechanical pump.

 

[NickBarrFishing.com]

What about a vacuum controlled wastegate? The previous owner on mine set up a t-bar system that he tied into the vacuum system which does the same thing as a mechanical wastegate.

 

[fonecop1]

:icon_bs:

):h just kidding

You'll notice a good bit of difference increasing your boost...but like what was mentioned you'll need big free flowing exhaust and intake to really notice it.

Then turn the pump up for even more boost/performance.

There is a link somewhere on here to a site that has instructions on how to turn up the db2 mechanical pumps....IIRC the instructions are for a db2 on a ford but turning up a db2 is turning up a db2.

When I did mine I preferred the "from the side" method (you can do it from top by removing the top cover). It's been awhile, but I see if I can recall all the steps.......there is a small triangle shaped black plate on the drivers side of the IP, remove those teeny-tiny screws that hold it on, remove the plate, grab a inspection mirror and 'bump' the motor over until you see a allen head screw through the access hole, turn that screw clockwise (in) 1/4 turn - no more. You have to remove the upper intake to get to it.....IIRC I think I had to remove all the linkages from the drivers side of the IP
Also, make sure you use a quality allen wrench - no cheapy, made in china crap. The screw is pretty friggin hard to turn...but it will turn. I don't recall the size of the allen right now.

One more thing, do not even attempt this project without a magnetic pick up tool and an inspection mirror....trust me, you'll need both. If the valley under your intake manifold is filthy, I would clean it good before you start or you'll never find those little screws when you drop 'em ....notice I didn't say 'if' you drop 'em.

Do these mods in this order....don't turn up the pump until you do something about the exhaust and intake.

When I built my first mechanical WG control and got my boost up over 10 psi (spiking around 12) that was with stock flat style airbox (that had the snorkle-ectomy) , and 3.5" open exhaust. It spooled very slow. Installed a free flowing dual cone air filter and that fixed the slow spooling (well, a GM-3 doesn't spool real fast anyway) - but it helped. Then I turned up the pump and that livened things up quite a bit. Now with a GM-8 installed - theirs really no comparison to the GM-3.

My bad I didn't notice that it was a mechanical pump. As for noticing the increase I didn't, maybe you will. The only benefit for me was that it's mechanical now and no more vacuum system to break.

 

[tcihla79]

a new downpipe is on my list of things to do but i need to change my oil cooler and lines. the crossover pipe was just replace with a fatory piece but i may look into changing it this summer.