• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

turbo intake boot oil leak ?

T

tcihla79

New Member
Messages
39
Reaction score
0
Location
chillicothe il
recently i changed to the rotella synthetic and increased my boost to 10psi. now i notice that i have been getting more oil coming out the turbo to intake boot. i assume the oil is from the recent changes, am i thinking right or do i need to do some inspecting elsware. also don't know the age of my cdr but i did clean it well a few weeks ago. thanks in advance.
 
Last edited:
the clamps may be loose i tightened them with a nut driver, but they are just regular old hose clamps. there has always been a little oil coming from there, but i noticed today that they was al little more thn normal. i am just wandering if the extra boost and the thinner oil could have increased the leakage. i should probably get a new cdr that may slow the leak down, just not sure?
 
it is not a standard hose clamp but it isn't a very heavy duty clamp either. has anyone else experienced this from either uping their boost or switching to the synthetic oil?
 
tcihla79 said:
it is not a standard hose clamp but it isn't a very heavy duty clamp either. has anyone else experienced this from either uping their boost or switching to the synthetic oil?
Click to expand...

My oil consumption increased with more boost. I'm hoping that my new K47 air filter will drop the vacuum alittle to counteract it.
 
synthetic oil is more slippery,and will increase oil use and pronounce allready sweating seals on a higher miler. Thats my experience annyway.
 
yeah i am not sure that i will stick with the synthetic very long. it sure starts easier and seems to stay cleaner. i might try a new turbo intake boot with new clamps. idk
 
time for CDR?

I had oil seepage on my boot and build-up on turbo inlet also. Got tired of seeing the mess. Changed out CDR w/ new and the seepage is pretty much gone. Wished I would have gotten a new CDR grommet for the vlv cover ahead of time, but I just gooped the old one w/ red silicone. BTW, I tried cleaning the old unit first, didn't work.

After the CDR, I had reason to take off the turbo and found the source of oil leaks on its bottom. The gasket between the oil return flange and oil return tube was rock hard (gee, wonder why , it doesn't get too hot around there :rolleyes5:). Also, the 1" oil return tube-to-block adapter was swollen and the clamps were loose. Both dealer items together cost about $12.

I think I've got the turbo pretty well sealed up. I hate a messy engine.

Odlaw said:
I'm not positive, but almost every 6.5 that I've seen (in person or just pix) has at least a little 'leakage' at the boot....at least a dark stain where it's trying to get out.
Click to expand...
 
Gulfsurfer said:
time for CDR?

I had oil seepage on my boot and build-up on turbo inlet also. Got tired of seeing the mess. Changed out CDR w/ new and the seepage is pretty much gone. Wished I would have gotten a new CDR grommet for the vlv cover ahead of time, but I just gooped the old one w/ red silicone. BTW, I tried cleaning the old unit first, didn't work.

After the CDR, I had reason to take off the turbo and found the source of oil leaks on its bottom. The gasket between the oil return flange and oil return tube was rock hard (gee, wonder why , it doesn't get too hot around there :rolleyes5:). Also, the 1" oil return tube-to-block adapter was swollen and the clamps were loose. Both dealer items together cost about $12.

I think I've got the turbo pretty well sealed up. I hate a messy engine.
Click to expand...


Where did you get your parts from I have the same problem
 
Rockauto.com sells cdr. Use the discount code for 5% off.
But often they can be cleaned out with brake cleaner or the like. Just bE sure get it all out and test real quick before installing.

some people bypass them and vent to atmosphere but besides polluting and risking fines, the vacuum in crankcase is better for the engine and if is more risk to blowing oil seals- not as bad as a plugged cdr.

the best option is using an oil catch can. In stead of the oil getting through a cdr and less volume at higher rpm where the problem is the worst, then the oil vapor that does get through you are burning it. With a catch can like the provent200 in place of the cdr, you get the most crankcase fumes removed at higher rpm, and all of the oil vapor gets recovered and put back into the oil pan- and you don't burn any oil. So better for environment. Also better for your engine seals, mpg, power, and not adding a quart of oil all the time. So the unit pays for itself over the long haul.
The provent is what is required in EU with stricter smog laws because the older cdr system pollutes too much.

EPA, local smog rules might be an issue. Technically here I could get in trouble, but when you show you improved everything on every level- they let it go. Just maybe keep the old cdr on a shelf incase they ever say to put it back how it was is my theory.
This is my personal opinion, and might not be legal so take that for what it’s worth.

There are folks that do ‘DIY catch can’ also if you cant afford the provent200. When you see the price on the cdr- you’ll understand why to consider cleaning it out or making the catch can jump. Higher mileage oil burners the catch can pays for itself quicker.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top