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Trying to drop the tank, but it's laughing at me

Tinker

Tinker

Active Member
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Location
Lavonia, Georgia
In the process of replacing an IP on a 94 K2500 Suburban, I found significant sludge in the fuel manager. I'm trying to drop the tank to check it out. Disconnected everything and removed the straps and shield but the tank won't drop. Must be one of those anti-gravity models. I've looked around for any additional clamps or bolts but see none. Just wanted to check here before I get out a pry bar and try to work it loose. Am I missing something?
 
Replace the tank if it needs serious cleaning. Sludge is likely bugs. Bugs eat into the tank, are difficult (and expensive when hired out to a shop) to clean. The tank coating may be or have failed and this will non stop clog the sock. Silver paint strips are a tank coating. Replace the fuel level sensor while you are there as it may be damaged from the sludge. Note the oem bypass in the sock. Do not install just a screen as the idiot aftermarket parts supply. Cold weather will stop the engine without the bypass in the sock/screen.

Most of us go with an external pre lift pump filter and leave the sock off. What's easier to fix a clogged sock or spin on filter?
 
WarWagon said:
Replace the tank if it needs serious cleaning. Sludge is likely bugs. Bugs eat into the tank, are difficult (and expensive when hired out to a shop) to clean. The tank coating may be or have failed and this will non stop clog the sock. Silver paint strips are a tank coating. Replace the fuel level sensor while you are there as it may be damaged from the sludge. Note the oem bypass in the sock. Do not install just a screen as the idiot aftermarket parts supply. Cold weather will stop the engine without the bypass in the sock/screen.

Most of us go with an external pre lift pump filter and leave the sock off. What's easier to fix a clogged sock or spin on filter?
Click to expand...
Thanks for that info. I did note a lot of silver specs in the sludge so I'll take a closer look at the lining when I get the assembly out. I'm definitely going to replace the sender; it was dodgy, especially after filling the tank.
 
I'll see what I can get in the next day or two. It looked something like the silty clay + mica subsoil that we have here. There is still quite a bit in the tank; I can here it sliding around when I slosh the last bit of fuel that I haven't poured off.

You may be right about the sludge being biological, as the truck was sitting for a while before I started troubleshooting again. Regardless, I found an inexpensive tank and ordered it yesterday.
 
Dispose of the old fuel... In depth:

Biological growth in ULSD and Biodiesel. This can affect you!

EDIT UPDATE 4/11/17: I no longer recommend burning as much of the corrosive wet fuel as you can due to further Injection System damage let alone clogged filter cost. Dispose of the "What used to be fuel" away as waste oil depending on local disposal laws. ULSD is more prone to infection of...
www.thetruckstop.us
 
Tinker said:
I'll see what I can get in the next day or two. It looked something like the silty clay + mica subsoil that we have here. There is still quite a bit in the tank; I can here it sliding around when I slosh the last bit of fuel that I haven't poured off.

You may be right about the sludge being biological, as the truck was sitting for a while before I started troubleshooting again. Regardless, I found an inexpensive tank and ordered it yesterday.
Click to expand...

@WarWagon - paint flake and corrosion; possibly some grit. No obvious water or biologicals. Overall, it's in surprisingly good shape for being 26 years old.IMG_20200924_192005[1].jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Given the picture IMO the fuel is fine. Not sure where the sand bar came from. Is it magnetic? In this case I suggest replacing the lift pump as it's scored up bad, flush the line from the FMM to the tank, and dissemble the FFM to clean it out. The heater has to come out to clean the dirt out. You will need new O rings.
 
I wouldn’t out the lift pump yet. Get a gauge on there like should have been from factory. Tap it at the ip inlet in metal fittings not rubber hose. Mount the gauge on the dash so you can see it while driving. If it is low pressure, then replace it. If not run it. Descent pumps are hard to find and if you chuck a good one over maybe it got damaged- that could suck. FTB- Get the line up to 3/8 while doing it.
Do loose the sock and get a spin on filter pre liftpump.
Examine the rest of the fuel line while tank is out. If rusty st all- replacement now. Any rubber line should be sae30r9.
 
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