true cold air intake???

[gmccrewcabdually]

dos any one make one????

is the only option stock or (see pic)

would any one be interested in a true cold air intake if there is not allready one on the market??

 

[Pruittx2]

yep that's about it, some have taken that and enclosed the area with a box, to let it only draw air from the fender holes,, some have put exterior vents in their fenders to help cold air get to that area,,
But I can't see any difference in this setup, for a few hundred bucks, and a stock 97 and up K-47 air filer box assem. You can check local junkyards, and there is even a link on here somewhere that will search the yards for you and show prices as well. K-47 Plus AC Delco filter will flow as good as any aftermarket unit. and it is all enclosed and sucks thru that fender area, and will be as cold air as it gets, with out a hood scoop.

THE SEARCH BUTTON IS YOUR FRIEND

 

[great white]

Yup, the stock K-47 (that's the RPO code) box has it all over anything you can buy aftermarket....

 

[gmccrewcabdually]

ya i like the serch button!!! and i read about that mod! but i am one of those guys that just can not deal with stock stufff! hell the day my gf showed up with her new horse trailer i started modding it!! LEDs, wheels, ext, ext, and then i had my painter paint it to match her truck!

i just really dont like run of the mill! and really really dont like stock!

i had an idea so was just a question!

Pete

 

[buddy]

For a better option I would relocate the passenger battery and put the filter enclosed behind the head lights, some people just put battery on its side and flatten the wheel well a little and it fits there.

 

[gmccrewcabdually]

ya thats an idea!! kinda sorts along the idea i was having! do you know if there is any pics around any place? serch didnt help any!

Pete

 

[BigBlueChevy]

Ive actually been planning on doing such a thing as the battery relocation for a CAI design myself for the longest time. Just had other issues and projects spring up and take its place. Bill Heath has been telling people he has designed a CAI kit for over... what 2 years now? I heard it would be ready for sales on there site at the end of the month(3 months ago). Frankly I just said screw it to waiting anymore. Unless you relocate the battery(think DMAX setup) like buddy said there really just isn't any benefit of a new intake. The stock K47 box is actually better off if anything. Remember that as long as you have both clamps to keep it closed the box is sealed and receives only air via the fender-well, unlike the aftermarket ones(the one you posted) that just have a cheesy heat shield to "block" engine air from entering.

Maybe after I finish my T-case and rear axle this month I'll dedicate a thread to building one for the 6.5 crowd.

 

[gmccrewcabdually]

ya im going to look at building one as soon as i put this motor in! ill be relocating my bat's and installing ATA intercooler and HX35! so ether way ill be posting some pics of what i do! probably here!

ill also dyno stock, standard after market intake, and whatever i come up with!! see what kinda numbers we we get!!

Pete

 

[buddy]

When relocating batteries do yourself a favor and use some 0 gauge wire to the starter and between batts, or at least larger like 1 or 2 gauge.

 

[gmccrewcabdually]

:biggthumpup:well ya!! LOL they are going all the way back under the bed! where the spare used to be!! :thumbsup:

 

[BigBlueChevy]

Already got me some 4/0 welding cable running to the starter and block for power and grounding respectively. It REALLY does make a huge difference. Also consider upgrading your crossover cable to something huge as well. Just upgrading the crossover to a 4/0 cable alone made the truck spin over faster. Voltage didn't drop as quickly anymore either.

 

[gmccrewcabdually]

ya that was all part of the idea!! but who knows what my crazzy brain will come up with!!!!!

 

[buddy]

Going back to the spare tire area youll need at least 2/0 gauge. Welding wire is great because of its high strand count, making it more flexible and better at carrying high current.

 

[BigBlueChevy]

8 rivets hold in the spare tire carrier as well as 4 bolts that hold up brackets(too thin to call braces if you ask me). Take off the bed(you almost HAVE to take the bed off to do any work back there). Grind off the rivets and bang them out with a punch and sledge. Heat helps too, but if your going to burn them out(oxy/acetylene), watch your cutting if you plan on reusing the holes. The tire carrier is in there pretty tight. I tried fighting with mine trying to twist it out but just ended up cutting the center and splitting it in half to drop it out. Excessive, but it worked. If your not up to making a rear battery holder bracket, Dan at "ruffstuffspecialties" makes an outstanding Dual Optima battery holder for things just like this. One of the best in the business if you ask me. You may want to run the cables from the batteries on the passenger side frame rail instead of the drivers side. Last thing you need is an accidental short between the positive and ground near the fuel lines turning your diesel fuel into a bomb. Just all food for thought. And there is nothing wrong with using the heaviest stuff you can afford. It will be worth it in the end, just make sure you support it sufficiently as it travels along the frame. Especially if its welding cable.

 

[gmccrewcabdually]

all good ideas! but ill probably end up with 4 blue top optimas back there! and i have done my fair share of things like this!! but getting back on topic the first atempt at a true cold air will probably involve the factory bat location just to see what i can come up with!! and get some dyno numbers to se if there really is a difference or not!! i know in other cars i have hade there was huge differences!!