Troubleshooting Checklist

[OBE]

6.5 Engine Diagnostic Troubleshooting Checklist
6.5 Engine Diagnostic Troubleshooting Checklist


Copy and paste this checklist into a new post, then answer all the questions by typing in your data into the (red) blanks as indicated - click in the middle of the blank, start typing.


Problem: Explain your problem in concise language (ie: Cranks but won’t fire). _____Runs fine then conks-out_______________________

Demographics: tell us about your truck and your ambient conditions:

- Year: ___2000___
- Truck model and class (ie: c2500) ________Chev C/K3500_
- Automatic or Standard ______Auto 4X4____
- Mileage: (indicate miles or km) _______unknown for this motor__
- Replaced parts and mods (IP, PMD, chip/PCM, TM, injectors etc) ___________PMD remote
- Model: ‘S’ or ‘F’ engine, NA or Turbo, EGR? _______Turbo_______
- Ambient outside temp: (indicate *C or *F) __50 F________
- What fuel are you using? (#1 Diesel, #2 Diesel, Bio, VO, WVO, etc) ______#2___
- What fuel additives are you using? _______none____
- Where are you located? ____South NJ_________

General maintenance: inspect and evaluate the condition of each. When were they last changed?
- Air filter _________
- Fuel filter _________
- CDR Valve? _________
- Coolant – last flushed/replaced at _____________
- Oil – synthetic/regular, changed at ___________
- Batteries – state of charge, (matched set) replaced at _____________
- Battery cables and grounds (removed, cleaned and tightened): ______________
- Glow Plugs - how many miles on them? _________ What type? _____________
- Injectors - last changed at _______________


History: (Describe how the problem first appeared.)
- What were you doing when it happened? ___________Normal drive no trailer___
- How was the truck running fine before this problem appeared? _______yes______
- Has this problem ever happened before? __________no_____________
- Describe any related factors that might be part of the problem. _______Aux tank sender deteriorated/failed main tank ran dry_______
- Have you checked for DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes)? (Y.N) __Y__ And? ______P0126 and P0236__


Diagnostics:

1] Starting:
1a] Does the engine start? ______yes___
1b] Does the engine crank over? ______yes__
1c] Are your batteries fully charged? ______yes___
1d] Have you removed, cleaned, and tightened all battery connections? ____yes____
1e] Does your Wait to Start light come on for a time? How long? ___6 sec______
1f] Does your glow plug light come on? ____yes_____ For how long? ____6 - 10 sec_____
1g] Do you see smoke from the exhaust while cranking? What color? _NO_______
1h] Does the Service Engine Light Glow during Start/bulb check? ___Yes it is always on_____

2] Fuel Issues (if not running):
2a] Can you hear your lift pump working? ______yes______
2b] Do you get a steady flow of fuel from the water drain (T-handle) ? ____?_____
2c] Loosen the inlet line from the IP – is fuel coming out (Lift Pump on)? _____?______
2d] Loosen an injector line and crank the engine - does fuel come out? ____?_____
2e] Do you hear a vacuum (hiss) when you remove the fuel cap? ____No_______

3] PMD / IP Issues
3a] Location of PMD (on pump, on intake, remote mounted) ___remote installed last since trouble________
3b] Condition of Extension harness (if used) Vendor or Homemade? ____Good_____
3c] Condition of grounds / ground wires to IP / PMD. Check Harness. ____?_____
3d] PMD Make: ____sana_______
3e] PMD Age: ______new_______

4] Stalling Issues
4a] Do you experience stalling only when hot? _____no_______
4b] Does it stall under particular circumstances? (ie hit bump, or on accel) __no____
4c] Does pouring cool water over the IP seem to help with restarting? ___?______
4d] Is stalling momentary (engine recovers)? ____sometimes_____
4e] Does SES light come on when engine hiccups? ____didn't notice_____
4f] Does cruise control quit working when engine hiccups? ____?_______
4g] Does re-starting seem to reset engine, restoring cruise and power? _____no____
4h] Changes to dash lights or instruments during stalling events? ___sometimes________

5] Running Issues
5a] On cold start, does upper rad hose get hard before engine warms up? __?_____
5b] Any bubbles or oil film in coolant overflow tank? __no_____
5c] Any white slime on oil surfaces (dipstick, CDR, oil Fill cap)? __no________
5d] Excessive white smoke from exhaust on cold start? ___no______
5e] Excessive black smoke from exhaust under hard acceleration? _____no_____

6] Performance Issues
6a] Do you have gauges (boost, EGT) ? ____no_______
6b] Maximum boost under load? ____?________
6c] Have you added a performance PCM (reflash) or Chip? _____no_________
6d] Have you changed exhaust / downpipe / crossover? _______no_________
6e] Wastegate – mechanical or vacuum (OEM)? _______?_______

7] Temperature-related Issues:
7a] Single or dual thermostats? _____dual ABSENT_______
7b] Have you replaced them lately? Manufacturer of replacements? ____no_____
7c] Have you pulled and cleaned Radiator and coolers lately? _____no_______
7d] Have you replaced the fan clutch? Manufacturer of replacement? ___no_____
7e] (winter) Have you tested your antifreeze? Good to what temp? ___-20_______
7f] (winter) Are you using a winter grille cover? _____no______

List and describe any other factors which are not addressed in this checklist. We can’t see, hear, smell, or touch your truck, so the more descriptive information you can give, the more likely it is that somebody can assist you.

_________________________________

 

[JMJNet]

You need to do 2b???
It is easy, when the truck is running, just open the t-valve.

This is to eliminate the LP issue.
LP can feel running but not pumping.

Where is the remote location of PMD?

 

[OBE]

The PMD/FSD is on the fender well. It's cool to the touch. I know it's working because the other day I touched the FSD with the back of my hand and it was only warm to the touch; when I touched the heat-sink it was much warmer (so I guess it is doing its job)

I read that if I didn't get certain DTCs when the truck starts then immediately dies, the certainty is 95% that my problem is PMD. I bought an OBDII reader at Harbor Freight and found only P0126 & P0236 DTCs so I bought a remote kit for $207 incl. shipping and I still have the problem.

I tried the T-Valve before and all that escaped was fuel. OBTW...what is the setting for this valve. Does it stay opened a little or are you supposed to loosen the nut, turn the T all the way in till it bottoms then re-tighten the nut?

I think I need to have explained the basics of how this truck gets fuel from the tanks to the IP. Understand, I have only just learned all of these acronyms and names for these components with this episode of trouble so don't assume I have any fore-knowledge.

 

[Will L.]

You should not have to mess with the nut on the valve. If you have, snug the nut until there is a resistance on the t handle. It shouldn't spin easily or very hard. when you open or close the valve think of it just like a garden hose valve. close it all the way.

In the tank is the fuel sock or pick up screen(a strainer with a by pass in case it plugs). Fuel lines run along driver side of frame to the lift pump under door area (looks like a gas fuel filter with 2 wires attached) It is a low pressure pump only intended to feed fuel to the injector pump.
From there to the fuel filter manager on your intake manifold. This houses a fuel filter,fuel heater, and water in fuel indicator/separator. Next is the input at the rear of the injection pump. This ramps up pressure to around 4,000 psi and works like a distributor in a gas engine, timing the fuel to the correct cylinder at the correct time. Some of the unused fuel from the injector pump will exit the fuel line at the top front of the pump going to a return line.

The fuel coming out of the pump to the cylinders travels through the metal injector lines to the injectors. When the fuel pressure reaches a preset level in the injector it "pops" open spraying fuel into the mixing chamber of the cylinder. There will be a little unused fuel at the injector that comes out the 1/8" rubber lines going from injector to injector until the lines meet up in the same return line that the unused injector pump connected to.
From there the return line goes back into the fuel tank down as far as the fuel sock. This is so that no air may enter the fuel line in the event the truck is on an incline that would allow air to bleed up to the injector pump.

Air at no point should be introduced to the system. If the t valve is left cracked open, a hose clamp is loose,etc. the system could suck air in causing a cavitation at the injectors and cause the truck to run rough or not at all.

There are electronics involved including the pmd in controlling the injector pump. I'll leave that to someone more versed than myself to explain.

 

[OBE]

Thanx, Will, I appreciate the explanation. OBTW, I paid $407 incl. shipping, for the PMD Remote Kit. (not $207 as I wrote in the previous reply)

I drove it to a job, about two miles away, and when I came out to start it again it wouldn't start. I left it there until the next day and it started right-up and drove home. It did do one peculiar thing about 30 seconds after I started it: It "loped" or "missed" or whatever you call it (as if it shut off) but then it didn't stall but recovered with a "race" or "surge" and was alright for the rest of the two mile drive back home.

 

[ak diesel driver]

who did you get your PMD from? A lot of your symptoms sound like a bad PMD

 

[Will L.]

No matter how new a pmd is you have another for testing. I have seen new pmds have problems out of the box.

As far as the p0126 and not having thermostats in I'd have to say go buy a couple of acdelco 195 stats and put them in. Not maintaing a proper coolant temperature can send idi diesels into goofy mode in a hurry.

When chasing an undetermined problem don't repair multiple items at once, do them 1at a time incase something goes haywire. When you have something known that is not normal, fix it first to eliminate the variables like no tstat.

My 2 cents. Of coarse inflation makes it worth -1.28.

 

[OBE]

Thanx, Will. I wholeheartedly agree. I have corrupted the "scientific method" with my troubleshooting approach.

That's why I haven't gotten the t-stats yet. They aren't expensive and it doesn't look like too tough a job for me to handle. The truck ran like an absolute "raped ape" for a whole year even though it ran on COLD. I have to spring for that new sender to get that AUX tank working, so I think I better do THAT!

Can I order the parts I need form someone on this forum? I found-out I was supposed-to-have done that for the Remote PMD but I didn't realize it at the time.