Tires and Suspension R&R

[tanman_2006]

I just had a blow out on my michelins and have a second tire that wont stay seated at the bead.

The tires are 2yrs old with ~70K on them and look like they are 10yrs old and still had ~20% tread (in places). The reason for the blow out likely has to do with my front end allignment and warped leaf springs. The inner is bald on one side while the outer rib is bald on the otherside. Truck needs some downtime for front end rebuild and new rear leafs (allignment c-clamps are twisted) before i do much more driving or install new tires.

I am planning energy suspension ball joints (if needed), control arm bushings, idler and pitman braces, tierod sleeves, and maybe some deaver or alcan leafs as well as Tbars cranked, maybe some rear spacers (idk how thick i need), and new bushwacker flares (ripped one off in the blow out).

Any opinions on the suspension would be great too.

My last set was 285/55 R 20 load E Michelin LTX A/T 2. The wheels are a 20x9. My outer ribs on the tires wore much faster than the inner ribs telling me the tires are too narrow for the wheel. I am installing a slightly taller 285/60 R 20 or 305/55 R 20. The 285's come in a better load rating and prefered tread design but i am worried the tire will wear abnormally again. The 305/55 comes with a 500# rating drop and only comes in aggressive tread design.

So far i am looking for opinion and prices for long lasting a/t.

Here are the options i am looking at now, i'm open to suggestions but i dislike BFG AT's:

had very good luck with these tires on 16" wheels
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...R0WSAOWL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

Also had good luck with these but i am not wanting this aggressive of a tire at the moment.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...55QR0WDT&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

All my buddy's run the MTZ's with good luck but the ATZ's look more appealing to me
http://www.tirebuyer.com/tirebuyerw...chyBySize/tireCatalogView_selectedItem/154330

 

[tanman_2006]

My ATZ's will be on this Thursday at 9.

I am currently waiting on my 3500# 8 leaf packs from Deaver (trucks already a hay wagon so it better ride like one lol). I also have firstone air bags for when things get real serious, trying to decide on if i want auto level or an in cab controler.

Odering front end parts including tierods from here . UNLESS someone has anyother suggestions, so far ya'll are kinda hanging me out to dry here. I want parts strong enough to hold a bosted launch or 2 so I'd like to get the right parts the first time.

 

[DieselSlug]

Id help but the only suspension stuff ive done is add-a-leaf junk, timbrens and crank the t-bars.

 

[RI Chevy Silveradoman]

The wider, larger tires put more stress and wear and tear on your truck. Hence the need for all new parts. On the flip side, if you got 70K on your set of tires, then you got your moneys worth out of them. One can't ask for much more than that.

Thanks for keeping us up to date with the new parts. :thumbsup:

 

[tanman_2006]

I thought about timbrens, the guys at alcan suggest them but i found NEW IN BOX firestone ride rites on CL for 1/2 price from a guy for a 01-07 chevy.

The add a leafs I installed in my old 03 GMC 2500 6.0 cracked in less than 6 months of the same abuse, warrenty covered it (i added ride rites soon after) and I passed the truck off to my cousin who totaled it.

 

[tanman_2006]

The wider, larger tires put more stress and wear and tear on your truck. Hence the need for all new parts. On the flip side, if you got 70K on your set of tires, then you got your moneys worth out of them. One can't ask for much more than that.

Thanks for keeping us up to date with the new parts. :thumbsup:

I understand the problem with bigger tires wearing parts out quicker but the way I run the truck I dont know if i will see any difference lol. My ball joints and tierods look ORIGINAL with 187K on it as of yesterday. They are actually still tight but the rubber boots are all cracked.

 

[chefmike]

Did you do all that xfr stuff? I would like to redo my front end... Need a good primer on the whole thing. May be a fall project

 

[tanman_2006]

Not yet, I'm giving people on the forum until the end of the week to give a yay or nay. If there is still no opinion either way then I will throw their tie rods and ball jolints in and go try a 4x4 boosted launch.

I found that link on a ford forum and they like them, the 1,000,000 mile warrenty is appealing too!

 

[someotherguy]

The Michelin LTX AT/2 in 285/55/20 is suggested for the width of rim you're running, in fact a range of 8" to 10" so 9" should be perfect. I'd bet the reason for edges wearing sooner than centers is probably underinflation. As an E load tire its max inflation is 80 psi, doesn't mean it's correct for your particular application, but what were you running them at?

Richard

 

[tanman_2006]

I know its recommended. I run constant 80 rear and 70 front. The rears wore on the shoulders, I can get pics of one if you dont believe it. I might work the dog piss out of my truck but maintenence is pretty high on my priority list, the tires get their air checked before i load EVERY load and that could be 3 times a week, or in the case of hay hauling down the black top I check them a couple times a day. I treat my truck the same way with oil samples, filter service, and front end maint.

I went to a 305 to see if that does any better, its rated on a 8.5-11 wheel so it might do better with the constant load I have as far as keeping the tread flat on the ground. If it doesnt work I will go to a 285/60R20 which is a hair (couple tenths) taller but narrower. I will run them until bald if they look ok loaded, worst case senerio I sell the tires after ~1000 miles (loose a few $100) and put the other size on.

 

[chefmike]

Not yet, I'm giving people on the forum until the end of the week to give a yay or nay. If there is still no opinion either way then I will throw their tie rods and ball jolints in and go try a 4x4 boosted launch.

I found that link on a ford forum and they like them, the 1,000,000 mile warrenty is appealing too!

They sell direct... Do you have prices on the parts yet? Suprised we dont have a vendor here carrying them yet!

 

[tanman_2006]

No havent asked for a price. I guess I can call and ask in the AM. I figured if they are as good as they claim then someone would have 2cents to share. We have had our other farm trucks eating MOOGs but they are beyond normal use and abuse. When i say eating I guess i should clarify and say the tire crooks are blaming split boots on the ball joints and tie rods for our separated tires and wont cover the road hazard warrenty or manufacturer defects. The joints are all still rock SOLID and allignment is close for a truck that hauls hay off road.

This is part of the reason I didnt get Goodyears on my truck until I can try out a new dealer. Our bad tires have been on some cheap HT's we purchased but we still expect better service than this. Still have yet to have a problem with the wranglers (silent armor and duratrac) and am probably going to change to Kelly Tires soon, had about 4 dealers recommend a kelly dealer for the type of tires i need over themselves.

 

[schiker]

I have about 205K miles and have a hard time believing your tie rods and idler aren't shot if not more if OE. All my OEM stuff was worn badly at 120K and my Napa gold idler is now tired at 205K. I hear many wear out around 100K miles. Your ball joints may be ok but with cracked boots and if contaminated I'd think they are suspect????

I'd call hendersonslineup.com for some more opinions and check out thier super steer idler. Maybe extra or heaviest duty steering stabilizer shock too.

Did you get ride rites for the front too? What kind of shocks you using? I'd say Bilstiens are best for most but since you are so much off road hauling heavy do you need a heavier shock with external tank so it can cool better and or dampen more consistent? Not sure what /who's are heaviest load shocks. External tank is first thought like offroad style but they may just help more constant travelling and not dampen heavier loads??? I'd ask Henderson or others what they recommend for shock for a pickup slide in camper etc.

Did you ask about maybe adding a half leaf to spring pack since they did not want to build heavier load rating. I did this on a lifted 4x4 once to help reduce axle wrap it goes on front half of leaf pack. The Duramax guys are putting a heavy duty spring clamp on thiers to help axle wrap might be good with half leaf.

 

[someotherguy]

I know its recommended. I run constant 80 rear and 70 front. The rears wore on the shoulders, I can get pics of one if you dont believe it. I might work the dog piss out of my truck but maintenence is pretty high on my priority list, the tires get their air checked before i load EVERY load and that could be 3 times a week, or in the case of hay hauling down the black top I check them a couple times a day. I treat my truck the same way with oil samples, filter service, and front end maint.

I went to a 305 to see if that does any better, its rated on a 8.5-11 wheel so it might do better with the constant load I have as far as keeping the tread flat on the ground. If it doesnt work I will go to a 285/60R20 which is a hair (couple tenths) taller but narrower. I will run them until bald if they look ok loaded, worst case senerio I sell the tires after ~1000 miles (loose a few $100) and put the other size on.

I think you misunderstood me. I wasn't accusing you of shoddy maintenance practices and not checking your tire pressures. I just meant that maybe you were running them at a less than ideal pressure. One of the most common things that happens with aftermarket tires/wheels is that manufacturer's recommended pressures no longer apply. If the door sticker on my old '92 C1500 says the 235/75/15's should be run at 35 psi (can't remember but it's a fairly safe bet), does that mean I should run the 255/45/20's at 35? Nope! Minimum 40 psi, I think I found the sweet spot around 44 psi.

Anyway, that's what I meant.

If you're seeing that kind of wear at/near the max pressure, then yeah, something else definitely going on. I still doubt it to be a poor match of tire & rim width as it's right there smack in the middle of the allowable range. May just be a characteristic of that particular tire model. That kind of wear seems fairly common to me on fat tires used with wide wheels, for example all the fatties you would see on a street truck running 12" wide rears, ya know?

Richard

 

[tanman_2006]

I think you misunderstood me. I wasn't accusing you of shoddy maintenance practices and not checking your tire pressures. I just meant that maybe you were running them at a less than ideal pressure. One of the most common things that happens with aftermarket tires/wheels is that manufacturer's recommended pressures no longer apply. If the door sticker on my old '92 C1500 says the 235/75/15's should be run at 35 psi (can't remember but it's a fairly safe bet), does that mean I should run the 255/45/20's at 35? Nope! Minimum 40 psi, I think I found the sweet spot around 44 psi.

Anyway, that's what I meant.

If you're seeing that kind of wear at/near the max pressure, then yeah, something else definitely going on. I still doubt it to be a poor match of tire & rim width as it's right there smack in the middle of the allowable range. May just be a characteristic of that particular tire model. That kind of wear seems fairly common to me on fat tires used with wide wheels, for example all the fatties you would see on a street truck running 12" wide rears, ya know?

Richard

I wasnt mad at you and didnt get offended really. Just trying to get the point across that the rears were at 80# and I knew they were from checking ALOT. I dont doubt that the wheel tire combo might have that characteristic when loaded heavy I just want to see if a different tire size might help advoid this issue. I know what you are talking about on street truck/cars with race tires wearing that way, it makes sense. If i felt comfortable running my tires at 100# I would but i doubt that would help in the long run.

I'll check out hendersonlineup while im bored in the waiting room. Right now i just have part store cheapy shocks from the PO under the truck but have been planning an up grade soon just need to get other things squared away. Bilsteins are at the top of my list and I think they have some custom sets.

Having cracks in the ball joint boots isnt good but i grease them frequently and check for play more often after i notice cracks. I like to think greasing them alot helps keep dust out.

My truck was a City boy and didnt tow more than a couple 4 wheelers or lawn mowers from time to time before i got it so the front end being original is probably due to the lack of un level ground. The idler and pitman are getting alil loose but I'm not letting the tire shop put a new front end on it when i am perfectly capable on my own, plus they use MOOG and i am trying to get away from them.

 

[tanman_2006]

I haven't gotten the time to call and check on front end part prices and quality claims yet but I HAVE TO SOOOON! My Idler and pitman are pretty loose, and there is a touch of play in the upper ball joints. I had planned to do all energy suspension parts and still might, i'm not concerned with the ride quality as much as i am with the longevity of the parts.

I cranked the T Bars until I was sitting at just under 42" at the top of the front fender arch (this was pre new tires), this was ~3.5" taller and still has 1" of bolt left. The allignment was SPOT ON for the balljoints, so they are sagging.

The 305/55 R 20 Mickey T ATZ's look NASTY on my truck, i'm very impressed. Its been raining here all day so I gave the tires a small test, nothing major though. A slight hum over 35 mph right now but I've had ALOT worse, They should get better as they break in. These tires are very stiff, me likes! Once I get my new ball joints and idler and pitman I might crank all the way since i have some rub at full crank off road. All of my tires (or wheels) were ~3.5oz off on weight on the inside of the rim only, so far no vibes.

My deavers got hauled to the wrong state and should be here in the A.M. Lets hope they are because my trucks got one hell of a cali lean, i'm feelin gay already... My stock leafs are only 2" off the bump stops, they are DONE.

Anyone have any experience with aftermarket center links or center link braces?

I'll get pics up as soon as I get better internet service.

 

[DieselSlug]

Wow, always wished i could have afforded MOOG parts. Was told they are one of the best? Where are you gonna order the energy parts? Im ripping through front end parts almost every 3 years due to the plow. Its because i keep buying NAPA crap, im always broke when something breaks.

 

[tanman_2006]

Moog is what i consider middle of the road for OEM replacement. Its good for the average user but I've been seeing too many failures in my families farm trucks so I am looking to step up in quality a bit.

I surprised you get 3yrs out of yours, my cousin goes through an idler and pit man a yr ~20K. He has a 05 LLY Crew Cab Dually 4x4 and doesnt drive near as hard as i do. His uppers might get 2 yrs.

 

[DieselSlug]

Moog is what i consider middle of the road for OEM replacement. Its good for the average user but I've been seeing too many failures in my families farm trucks so I am looking to step up in quality a bit.

I surprised you get 3yrs out of yours, my cousin goes through an idler and pit man a yr ~20K. He has a 05 LLY Crew Cab Dually 4x4 and doesnt drive near as hard as i do. His uppers might get 2 yrs.

The past few years with the engine rebuild and trans rebuild my truck is off the road for the summer. Usually its on all year when i dont have something big planned for it. So really if i drove it all year it prolly would be less time.

 

[tanman_2006]

Good point! My 6.5's front ends have been lasting longer since i parked them... haha