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Tired 6.5 to mild build!

jbb421

jbb421

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Well I bought my truck last summer, and after installing a set of rebuilt injectors, I found its time for a rebuild. My plans are within the next couple of months to gather up all the parts, then start building. I'm hoping for about 250-300 hp reliable daily driver/hauler, but I'm not sure if that is doable on my budget.

I already have a hx-35 i rebuilt ready to go on the motor and possibly a 12v cummins intercooler when its rebuilt my plans were to stud it, and go with lower comp pistons for higher boost, my truck is a 93 so I know I'll also need dual tstats, and a higher gph water pump. I'm not sure what else i need, different crank, will the factory hold up, possibly a cam too?


My biggest question is where do I find performance internal parts for these motors, I've searched alot and cant find any 18:1 pistons, also i planned on buying my gasket kit/rings from ssdiesel, but i have heard some bad things about them around the web.

I've not been in the diesel area for long so that's why I'm posting here, wanting suggestions and corrections if maybe I'm going about things wrong.
Thanks, Jbb any input will be or part source suggestions GREATLY APPRECIATED!
 
The single T stat with a duramax fan and a high flow water pump is the best cooling.

18:1 pistons are discontinued, there may be some old stock.

Check out ebay, there are re ring/gasket kits at 1/2 the price of ssd.
 
Oh I see, how much boost do you think would be reliable with factory pistons and head studs 25psi?

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when sctrailrider and I had out M&G and talked about rebuilding a old 6.5 and upgrading it. He told me to save my money and buy a p400 motor, I would be further ahead. I have to agree with Chris after we talked. The p400 is a better block and you dont have to worry about running 300hp since the old block is prone to cracking on the webbing.
 
Well that's not what I wanted to hear lol, but Its a whole lot better to know that now. Guess I'll just rebuild it back stock, cause there is no way I'm going to put that much money into an idi motor when I could do a Cummins swap making 300 hp for the same price or less even though I'd prefer the 6.5 it just doesn't make since to spend 4k on a motor that's out of date. Thanks for the suggestions, now to decide to go back stock, or do a Cummins swap :/

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Kennedy Diesel sells 18:1 pistons. He machines them to whatever compression you want, but they aren't cheap. If you're pulling the engine anyway, I would pull the pan and see if it's cracked. If it's not, I would just use your block. If it is, then you can start deciding if you want to buy a p400 or go with a Cummins.

I wouldn't do a cam. Honestly, if it were me, I would throw the hx35 on and turn the pump up and run it. Can run head studs for better clamping force. Make sure you have gauges and keep egts under 1200 degrees and with head studs and the 35, you could probably be good to 25 psi, but for hp range you're looking for, 20 psi should be plenty. Keep stock compression and do those couple of mods along with a good intake and exhaust and you should easily meet your goal. If you have a good pump, I would think you could be in the 260-270 crank hp range.

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NVW said:
I forgot to welcome you to TTS.

I would keep boost under 20 psi IMO.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the Welcome, and reply!


3500_6.5 said:
Kennedy Diesel sells 18:1 pistons. He machines them to whatever compression you want, but they aren't cheap. If you're pulling the engine anyway, I would pull the pan and see if it's cracked. If it's not, I would just use your block. If it is, then you can start deciding if you want to buy a p400 or go with a Cummins.

I wouldn't do a cam. Honestly, if it were me, I would throw the hx35 on and turn the pump up and run it. Can run head studs for better clamping force. Make sure you have gauges and keep egts under 1200 degrees and with head studs and the 35, you could probably be good to 25 psi, but for hp range you're looking for, 20 psi should be plenty. Keep stock compression and do those couple of mods along with a good intake and exhaust and you should easily meet your goal. If you have a good pump, I would think you could be in the 260-270 crank hp range.

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Click to expand...

Thats more along the lines of what I was hoping/thinking. Getting a new block would definitely be the smart way to go. Just Pricey IMHO the p400s run about 5k dont they?
 
Ouch, that's worse than I thought... I'm sure its worth every penny, but I can't justify It. My opinion would be a lot different if I had maybe 15k or $30k in my truck, but in its current state I have about $3500 in it.
Thanks for the replies.

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You can get a military take out Optimizer 6.5 for around $2200. Would be plenty strong for your build.

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The military take-outs are definitely a good place to start for a better block at a more digestible cost. Check BobbieMartin's thread on all the little extra's that go into converting a military-pull to a road ready motor.
 
Are there any forum members that still deal with these motors I found one on a government auction site, but that's all so far. Thanks

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Well i have decided that I am not doing a cummins swap it would just take way too much time, and the last thing I need is another project. I am however looking at a military take out 6.5 NA made by Melton, or rebuilt by them... Is this one of the good cast motors or is there no way of telling until i buy it?
 
Melton? What is the price and warranty if they are rebuilding it?

A take out optimizer if it was n/a only needs the precups swapped out, then throw in the head studs and felpro or victor rienz +10 head gaskets. have the injectors rebuilt up to turbo spec or maybe some higher :hihi: pressure. And its run-able.

Next step better is put on the gapless rings on while your at it with new cam, crank, rod bearings and you're good to go. The optimizer has better block, heads, crank, cam, rods. Same crappy gm bearings on cam so definitely swap them out.
 
Melton? What is the price and warranty if they are rebuilding it? How much will they do to your spec?

A take out optimizer if it was n/a only needs the precups swapped out, then throw in the head studs and felpro or victor rienz +10 head gaskets. have the injectors rebuilt up to turbo spec or maybe some higher :hihi: pressure. And its run-able.

Next step better is put on the gapless rings on while your at it with new cam, crank, rod bearings and you're good to go. The optimizer has better block, heads, crank, cam, rods. Same crappy gm bearings on cam so definitely swap them out.
 
No warranty, and they rebuilt it for the military I'm assuming their stickers are on the valve covers, only info I could find about it.

I'm going to be doing all the motor work so all of it will be to my spec :p. Sorry I Should have worded my last post differently.
Thanks for the reply!
 
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