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Timbrens ...

Matt Bachand

Matt Bachand

Depends on the 6.5
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Location
Worcester, MA
Asking here, because this is where people actually use the timbrens, and actually work the trucks. Not in suspension where people have nice show trucks.


Anyhow, How do they work to take the weight of the plow off my torsion bars so it doens't squat like a broad in the woods?
 
HAvn't touched em. Scared to. The powder coat on them is still perfect, making them the nicest looking thing under my truck, next to my new oil pan :) I just don't want something to break....

Should I give them a turn or 2 each?

I have no issues except when I load up my plow. And then its not really too bad, but curious how timbrens would help transfer that weight to prevent sagging? I dont' want to start eating front end parts... I drive this truck every single day for work. Can't be pissing through front end parts.

I still have factory balljoints, so I like where they are. Tight as a whistle.
 
3 turns on the adjusting bolt is about right if you don't want to align the front end. We turn all GM's up when we install a new plow.
 
iturned my bars up, and also installed the timbrens. i noticed 0 difference with the timbrens, but ait was a little better with the bars. air bags are on the wish list....
 
shortcircut65 said:
iturned my bars up, and also installed the timbrens. i noticed 0 difference with the timbrens, but ait was a little better with the bars. air bags are on the wish list....
Click to expand...

No difference at all with timbrens? They just squished that rubber ball down and plow still sits as low as before?

About the T-Bars, I may do 2 complete revolutions a piece.

How often does something break from doing this? My t-bars and adjustment screws look to be in decent shape. However untouched for probably 12 years.
 
Matt, take a tapemeasure, get your height at the bottom of the mount, give the bolt 3 turns, should get about 3/8" depending on how bad the bars are getting from age. I have never heard of or seen a broken t-bar. I have replaced a few due to age, at some point they wear out just like anything else. I just did a 99 3500 last night, spray down the bolts with a good lube, wait a hour or so and got to it. We use a long breaker bar, mark 1 flat of the bolt with paint and count the turns. takes 20 min tops.
 
Matt Bachand said:
No difference at all with timbrens? They just squished that rubber ball down and plow still sits as low as before?
yes sir! i couldn't believe it. measured the top of the wheel well, and had no change at all. kinda disappointed

About the T-Bars, I may do 2 complete revolutions a piece.

How often does something break from doing this? My t-bars and adjustment screws look to be in decent shape. However untouched for probably 12 years.
haven't had an issue, and been twisting the bars on my truck often for the past two years
Click to expand...

.
 
Wow, that suck, i just installed timbrens on my truck.. I was hoping my front end wouldnt sag so low.. It has had a plow for all of its life. I really hope they do something to take a little of the weight off. I cranked my barsw about an inch and a half last year. Hope this winter is better....:confused:
 
blizzardplowman said:
Matt, take a tapemeasure, get your height at the bottom of the mount, give the bolt 3 turns, should get about 3/8" depending on how bad the bars are getting from age. I have never heard of or seen a broken t-bar. I have replaced a few due to age, at some point they wear out just like anything else. I just did a 99 3500 last night, spray down the bolts with a good lube, wait a hour or so and got to it. We use a long breaker bar, mark 1 flat of the bolt with paint and count the turns. takes 20 min tops.
Click to expand...

I was under there doing other things, and sprayed the t-bar bolts down with pbblaster they looked in good shape so I grabbed my 3/8ths ratchet and 18mm socket and figured I'd see if they'd break free, thinking I can't break anythingw tih 3/8th............................ They didn't move in the tighten direction, so I tried backwards to try to move the bolt free before I crank.

Well......................

I barely got any pressure on the thing and it poped a little bit. Upon looking at it the adjusting bolt is now angled instead of straight up and down.

I had it jacked up by the frame and front tires off while doing this as I was doing maintenance.

Said 'F ME' and finished up and took it for a ride. Around the block it didn't pop back in place and is still a little angle to the side on it. The adj bolt that is. Vehicle sits level.

There is a little peep view slot thing n the crossmemeber where the t-bars attach to, and I can see it angled there too. Was hoping with weight on it it will pop back where it should as I barely applied pressure to it (loosen direction).........

Once again had vehicle jacked up by frame and tires off so they were as unloaded as they get.... Probably why this happened???

Well, is it safe? How do I fix??

Thanks!
 
see below:
Matt Bachand said:
I was under there doing other things, and sprayed the t-bar bolts down with pbblaster they looked in good shape so I grabbed my 3/8ths ratchet and 18mm socket and figured I'd see if they'd break free, thinking I can't break anythingw tih 3/8th............................ They didn't move in the tighten direction, so I tried backwards to try to move the bolt free before I crank.

Well......................

I barely got any pressure on the thing and it poped a little bit. Upon looking at it the adjusting bolt is now angled instead of straight up and down.

I had it jacked up by the frame and front tires off while doing this as I was doing maintenance.

Said 'F ME' and finished up and took it for a ride. Around the block it didn't pop back in place and is still a little angle to the side on it. The adj bolt that is. Vehicle sits level. Guess is the adjuster moved
There is a little peep view slot thing n the crossmemeber where the t-bars attach to, and I can see it angled there too. Was hoping with weight on it it will pop back where it should as I barely applied pressure to it (loosen direction).........Take me a picture

Once again had vehicle jacked up by frame and tires off so they were as unloaded as they get.... Probably why this happened??? Might be, we just crank them up sitting on the ground.....Well, is it safe? How do I fix?? CW is raise and CCW is lower, get me that picture just so I can see what it looks like.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
 
Blizzard, I couldn't find any front airbags thru that link for our era trucks, I was of the understanding no one makes any. Were you referring to the shocks that have the little air bladder on top? I wish there was a real front airbag because I'd have them. Those shock/bag things look kinda cool but pricy.
Matt, I've considered Timbrens a million times and never broke down and bought them. People I know don't like them, claiming a lousy ride, but others say it's not so. I have 5 cranks on my bars, got 1.5 inches when i first did it. Been five years now carrying an 810, only accelerated wear I see is front wheelbearings, which is to be expected with this kind of weight. Certainly don't see how Timbrens would change that. I still haven't done balljoints, but I just did inner tie rods at almost 170k. I've pretty much convinced myself I am doing fine without Timbrens.
If I were you I'd put a good five turns on it. IIRC it's ok to do it with it sitting on the ground. Only need to raise them and take the tension off the key with a clamp if you are changing the keys.
 
This one:

Firestone Level-Rite Air Over Shock System 1003 works with the following applications:

SUV:

Make Model Start Year End Year Additional Info
Chevrolet Suburban 2500 2000 2009 (4x2, 4x4)
GMC Yukon XL 2500 2000 2008 (4x2, 4x4)


Pickup:


Make Model Start Year End Year Additional Info
Chevrolet Silverado 1500HD 2001 2003 (4x2, 4x4)
Chevrolet Silverado 1500HD 2005 2006 (4x2, 4x4)
Chevrolet Silverado 2500 1999 2005 (4x2, 4x4) (New body style) (Not HD)
Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD 2001 2009 (4x2, 4x4)
Chevrolet Silverado 3500 2001 2009 (4x2, 4x4)
GMC Sierra 1500HD 2001 2003 (4x2, 4x4)
GMC Sierra 1500HD 2005 2006 (4x2, 4x4)
GMC Sierra 2500 1999 2005 (4x2, 4x4) (New body style) (Not HD)
GMC Sierra 2500HD 2001 2009 (4x2, 4x4)
GMC Sierra 3500 2001 2009 (4x2, 4x4)


Cab & Chassis:


Make Model Start Year End Year Additional Info
Chevrolet 2500HD 2001 2009
Chevrolet C-3500HD 2001 2009
 
Matt, I see you also posted this in another section of the forum. Please refrain from doing that. See your PM.
 
:nono:
blizzardplowman said:
Matt, I see you also posted this in another section of the forum. Please refrain from doing that. See your PM.
Click to expand...

:nono:

I know... I was scared for the safety of all the little children and their families...

I apologize.

Turns out the adjustment screw is just kind of wedged between the key and the T it sits in allows it to move side to side a little without worry.
 
Detroit Dan said:
at almost 170k. I've pretty much convinced myself I am doing fine without Timbrens.
If I were you I'd put a good five turns on it. IIRC it's ok to do it with it sitting on the ground. Only need to raise them and take the tension off the key with a clamp if you are changing the keys.
Click to expand...

Kind of how I feel about cranking the t-bars......... I'll just leave em be. Truck sits level without plow on it....

Almost regretted the ol' if it an't broke, don't fix it theory of mine.... I'm just gonna leave it alone and fix things that actually need fixing.
 
I have read elsewhere that you should shim your timbrens more if they aren't transferring enough weight of the plow. Perhaps thats something to try if you aren't noticing any gains.
 
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