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the 6.5 is DONE!

tyler111991

tyler111991

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Bentonville, AR
after posting the "30 minutes of smoke" thead some people confirmed i had an injector fail. I had to drive it 45 minutes like that until I got it back home, but i think thats where i made a mistake. I tried to start it today and it ran for about 3 seconds before violently coming to a shuddering stop. I tried turning it over and heard a clunking sound coming from the engine and it seems to have lost compression. I looked and saw no obvious leaks or cracks anywhere... any ideas what i broke? :mad2:
 
Well judging by your blue smoke comment and the fact it was running I'd say you had piston issues and now have a seized piston. Of course you may well have crank issues now also in addition.

Time to pull your heads, this will tell you alot.

Cheers
Nobby
 
nobby said:
Well judging by your blue smoke comment and the fact it was running I'd say you had piston issues and now have a seized piston. Of course you may well have crank issues now also in addition.

Time to pull your heads, this will tell you alot.

Cheers
Nobby
Click to expand...

I took the belt off and checked the crank, there does not seem to be any play in it or anything. a piston seizure sounds like it could be the problem. i will post up pics when i pull the motor apart and show what exactly happened, thanks guys
 
Bad injectors do this to you:
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?25652

For grins does the front pulley spin with the starter?

Pull the engine and pull the heads off. Maybe you can save the heads.

Smoke could be oil or an injector. Turbo shaft seals are suspect. Have the injectors tested if you don't have visual melted aluminum...
 
tyler111991 said:
...I tried to start it today and it ran for about 3 seconds before violently coming to a shuddering stop. I tried turning it over and heard a clunking sound coming from the engine and it seems to have lost compression...
Click to expand...

bill-cat-ack.jpg
 
I dont have cherry picker to pull the engine out... ive already started tearing it down though. i will figure out how to get the heads off with the motor still in the truck haha. ive never taken this thing apart so it should be interesting. this is my first 6.5 disassembly... do i need to take the fuel lines off to get the intake manifold off? I cant seem to figure out how they can be removed
 
Test the compression first to determine which sides, if not both.

If it is just the piston rod, that is a good thing.
 
im just going to tear the whole motor down, Ive never taken it apart before and curious on how everything works with it. Ive just finished getting the intake manifold off, can anyone tell me if i have to remove the IP to get to all of the fuel lines? I can get to the top ones ok but the bottom ones are kinda tricky to get to
 
Dont pull the pump unless you NEED to replace it. It can stay there if you are just gonna do the heads and stuff..... As for the lower lines i use a crows foot to get in there. Its tough but can be done.
 
Pay the $150 at harbor freight for the cherry picker... makes getting things apart much easier. Rent a friend with one is also a good option. Check Craigslist for used if you must. And you will need one depending on if the block is any good.

A standard wrench will get the lines off the IP. You just have to be creative with it. And engine out helps with that.
 
ok thanks a lot guys. I know a friend with a cherry picker im sure he will let me borrow. I will post up some pics of the damage when i find it
 
I had a valve let go some how and got crunched a few times on cylinder 7 and then out the exhaust it went leaving no compression in that cylinder.

It smoked like a champ, and you could make out the 'squifffffffffft' sound everytime that cylinder tried to compress.
 
Pay the $150 at harbor freight for the cherry picker... makes getting things apart much easier.
Click to expand...

Where do/would you attach the "picker" to....A chain, or is there a secret tie down spot?....And where are/is the best/strongest bolt and chain points on the 6.5 for engine removal?......or even just to go up enough, to do, say.......Motor mounts?
 
^^Factory installed brackets, LF & RR.

I'd yank the whole shebang. Sitting in an engine bay dead-lifting heads will give a guy dead babies.

DSC01522.jpg
 
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I do believe some vintages of 6.5L do not have the lifting eyes installed (bean counters saved 47 cents an engine on that ordeal, good job guys! :rolleyes: ) I cannot remeber which ones, It may be 96 and up that are missing eyes. I suspect this is the problem Brooklyn is up against.

If you have no eyes, 3500gmc shows the best location, but you will have to use bolts through the chains. try and use short enough chains you can get the end individual ink flat against the engine and the bolt as far in as possible to reduce chance of breakage. I like using the fronts and backs of the heads. pretty certain that front acessories make life difficult for fastening up front.

one night in the dark with no bolts we used the manifolds as lfting points (as to not damage acessories). I really dont want to do that again though...
 
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