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That last nut....

J

JeffMD

Bent tool
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Location
Texas
Hi all,
I am one nut shy of getting my GM4 off so I can install my ATT.
As it was 105* in my area today and I am almost out of beer, I was hoping someone could advise me on the best way to attack the rear inboard nut holding the turbo to the manifold. I can't seem to get a good angle on it with a wrench or a straight ratchet and socket.
Is there a fancy wrench I should get or do I need to put the truck up on stands and grab a long extension?
I was able to toast the others a bit with a torch, but I am a little leery of cooking this one as there are some things near by that are probably best left under five hundred degrees.
 
I had luck getting it off with a wrench. I used the box end, of course, and let the rest of the wrench hang over the valve cover, aiming toward the firewall/fuel filter area. You will have to take the CDR all the way off, which you probably have already done. I used another wrench on the open end of the 15mm as "leverage" to be able to break the nut loose on the turbo.

Hopefully that wasn't too confusing....
 
That is what I was trying but I think the angle on my box end is a little too flat. I might have to run to Sears tomorrow and grab a new wrench.
This of course is what I get for selling all my Matco and Snap On stuff years ago.
 
I attacked it from underneath with a deep socket on a wobble head extension. Before the wobble head extension was added to my collection, I taped up a universal joint with electrical tape to restrict its motion. No issues with the nuts coming off the first time either after about 150k miles on the motor.
 
I get the back outer nut with a socket and a wobble extension through the wheel opening.... The other 3 I get with a wrench, just what I am use to and easiest for me.

But there is more than one way to skin a cat.....
 
I tweek a box end wrench in the vice so it clears the valve cover and use a pry bar trough the open end and hook the end behind whatever lower down that will hold the strain and break the nut loose.
Never had one that wouldn't budge.
I do them all from above.
 
I used a short snap-on wrench on that I believe, I didnt try using another wrench for leverage, but broke it free regardless. I think I got the front ones out with a wobble extension.
 
I yanked out the inner fender to make my life easier when I swapped my turbo out.
 
Ran out to Sears and grabbed a wrench.
Amazing how much of a difference a couple of degrees can make!
Thanks for all the responses!
 
You can also remove the entire manifold.... That is how i took my turbo out the first time but it was to do headgaskets.

Out of curiosity, how long after you ordered the turbo did it take to arrive?
 
I want to say it was two weeks, but part of that was a problem on my end. I had e-mails waiting regarding shipping info but I was locked out of my e-mail for a week.
 
JeffMD can you pm me, regarding your shipping issue with the turbo. I would appreciate it very much.
 
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So the A Team Turbo is on and working great! So far I have been taking it easy and have not made more than seven pounds of boost yet. I figure I will run it through lots of heating and cooling cycles before I kick it in the rear and see what it will do. I have noticed off the line at light throttle it seems to spool later than my GM-4 with the Turbo Master did. At about 60mph I am now holding at about one and a half pounds boost when before it running between two and three. The wife says the truck sounds quieter but we can't tell how much is the ATT vs the Walbro vs the sound proofing I have added.
Now all I need is my Feed the Beast stuff and I should be good to go!
 
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