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Test drove a truck yesterday - 06 LBZ

treegump

treegump

Romans 3:22-24
Messages
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Location
Martinsville, IN
I test drove this truck: http://www.donbessettemotors.com/vehicles.asp?id=29124 yesterday. Just drove it around the block because it had one low tire and no fuel in the tank. The dealer started the truck before I could check under the hood, but when I did check the coolant level was way low. (Maybe only an inch or two visible from the lowest flat point). Rear bumper was pushed in, and had a 6" exhaust tip (but looked stock all the way back to it).

More details about the truck: tow mirrors, removable gooseneck hitch, bumper hitch, cheaper brush guard, crew cab long bed, center seat up front, push button 4x4, cloth seats

Stock # is M20048B, VIN # on key ring was: 195459, 2006, 79655 miles, asking $32k.

Dealer just called me and said that the recorded hours on the truck was 4444 hrs, but then mentioned that the motor had just recently been rebuilt by the dealership. (Just found that out.) He explained that was why the coolant level was so low, they just hadn't filled up the resoivor yet. Seems fishy, and too beat up for $32k...
 
80,000/4444 = 18MPH average speed. Spent over half it's life idling. Run from that one. Not to mention a rebuild at 80k is a bad thing.
 
Thanks for confirming my fears. The trucks that I have gone to look at have had gooseneck or evidence of fifth wheel hookups in the beds, and found one that the tow hooks were all rusty (from continued use?)...
 
To be clear idle time takes out the PS pump, AC compressor, idler pulleys, transmission pump, fan clutch... drive belt stuff. Dash lights tend to be always on and stepper motors for the gauges fail.

I am seeing 2006 Dodge 2500's for $18K with 95 - 110K on them, crew cab. Up to $25K depending. Lower miles have higher value. $32K is near a new truck emissions or not.

Nothing to fear from 5th wheels or towing. Freeway towing vs. idle. These trucks were designed to work and do well at it. My old broker has near 300K towing on 2004-2008 Duramax's. Only the DPF gave em real trouble. Along with some minor injectors and the electric FPR valves.
 
WarWagon said:
Nothing to fear from 5th wheels or towing. Freeway towing vs. idle. These trucks were designed to work and do well at it. My old broker has near 300K towing on 2004-2008 Duramax's. Only the DPF gave em real trouble. Along with some minor injectors and the electric FPR valves.
Click to expand...

DPF?
 
DPF= Diesel particulate filter. It's like a 'mini-furnace' in the exhaust outlet that traps soot and every so often while driving down the road it will regen and burn off the soot. It's only on the new body style (current one) '07 and up, (LMM and up).
Noticed the flared out megaphone looking exhaust tip on the newer trucks? That's in conjunction with the DPF.
 
Check the average speed. Miles divided by hours. You want highway miles. Over 32 or so. As an example, mine is at 43 for it's entire life.
 
treegump said:
This is the first drive I took, but it has a center console (and I'd like to have that third seat) and it doesn't have towing mirrors. http://www.ryanchevroletminot.com/V...Crew_Cab_Standard_Box_LT1-Minot-ND/1583881053
Click to expand...

That's not a bad price...at least compared to trucks in the south. Keep in mind, it's pretty expensive to delete the DPF on the 07.5's and up...but it's a must (I've been told) to get the fuel mileage like the LBZ. My buddy's 2011 cost a little over 3k $ to delete.
 
I hadn't done any research on deleting the dpf...I figured it'd be another "cheap" DIY fix, the way everyone on here keeps talking about it like its not a HUGE deal. Guess I'm wrong?
 
treegump said:
Thinking of checking this truck out this coming week: http://www.ryanchevroletminot.com/VehicleDetails/used-2007-Chevrolet-Silverado_2500HD-4WD_Crew_Cab_Standard_Box_LT_w%2F1LT-Minot-ND/1697988753
Click to expand...

This has the DPF. Next time you fill up pull the nozzle out of the tank and pump 2-3 gal of diesel on the ground. This is the MPG you loose to burn the soot filter clean. The engine injects diesel on the exhaust stroke that gets burned in the cat to heat the DPF up enough to burn the soot off. It stinks when it is in regen. Even with the 25" cooling fan the EGR cooler and DPF restriction make 230 ECT normal for towing.

I suggest you get yourself up to speed quick on the Diesel Particulate Filter so you can make an informed decision. The extra speed (6) in the transmission and tap shifting is nice. If you don't have emissions you will need a tune and $500 exhaust to get 10% or more of your MPG back.

Do you really need to haul that many people? You pay for the privilege to do so in higher truck cost.
 
btfarm said:
I didn't realize it was anything more than an exhaust system and program. A few hundred $. 3 grand? :eek:YIKES!
Click to expand...
I don't know the specifics on my buddy's cost (he has plenty of money so he may have included buying efi live ) but it is NOT a simple cat delete like my LBZ was. As far as the computer goes, it doesn't know if I have a cat or not...never could...but the computer on the DPF trucks are well aware of their presence.

Somebody will chime in here that (unlike me) will actually have some accurate info on the DPF's for you.... lol
 
btfarm said:
I didn't realize it was anything more than an exhaust system and program. A few hundred $. 3 grand? :eek:YIKES!
Click to expand...

I did the exhaust for around $500.00 and used HPTuners (and a fourm post of what to disable) to turn the codes and regen off. EFI Live is a better choice and both HPTuners and EFI live have a cost. HPTuners is limited in the diesel stuff vs. the other. A tune can be had for $600.00 or get a canned tuner that can turn DPF off. Your best bet is to avoid trucks equipped with this. It can be done for around a grand. You will get your money back in MPG. Keep in mind: power train warranty = void the moment you put a tune in the computer.
 
I was thinking about the 130k mile LMM Forrest looked at. EFI for $100 from somebody that can buy another license and an exhaust. Ultimately a low mile LBZ would be the right selection but they DO bring a premium. If it was me, I'd think about paying the folks a visit (in Indiana) after shopping around NE Illinois/NW Indiana online and find something to buy and drive back to ND. Alot of hardly used ones around here with highway miles. ND trucks have been worked hard and with the booming economy up there they're selling at a real premium.
 
No, DPF Deletes can't cost $3,000. Even on the LML, you're looking at $500 for an exhaust (MBRP, you can find others cheaper).. And $650 for the H&S XRT Pro (Programmer only). That's almost $1200..

EFILive can't and it's been said many times will never be used on the LML.
 
btfarm said:
I was thinking about the 130k mile LMM Forrest looked at. EFI for $100 from somebody that can buy another license and an exhaust. Ultimately a low mile LBZ would be the right selection but they DO bring a premium. If it was me, I'd think about paying the folks a visit (in Indiana) after shopping around NE Illinois/NW Indiana online and find something to buy and drive back to ND. Alot of hardly used ones around here with highway miles. ND trucks have been worked hard and with the booming economy up there they're selling at a real premium.
Click to expand...

Yea, I'm rethinking my decisions. And I'm still bouncing between a cc/lb, cc/sb, or ec/lb. The thing is, is I plan on having 2 vehicles. One to drive around town, aka: the cruiser. The other would be for long distance/out of town/moving/towing/occasional hauling... And I figured if I bought newer, I'd probably be keeping it for quite some time... I had considered looking at 1/2 ton trucks, since my coworker seems really happy with his cc/sb 1500, but i like diesel and the options that come with it. And every time I climb into my truck I realize how much I'm going to miss driving a stick, haha. But, as I said before, if I get a big truck, it'll only be my dd till I get another vehicle. I'm just trying to find a non-fixer-upper that has some room in the bed (after I put my cross-over toolbox in it), and has at least an extended cab (but I've been told how NICE a crew cab is). In all honesty, a cc/lb doesn't look that bad once a headache rack & cross-over toolbox is put in, even though its 22" longer than my truck with a wheel base that's 12" longer.

Point is, if I can convince myself that buying a cc/sb 1/2 ton gasser is the way to go, it'd be done here, because it'd be new and no one is using those for work. If I continue my search for a diesel, I'll be checking the hours w/ mileage, but because of the cold, if its been through a winter than I'll assume its got a massive amount of hours on it. So, if I continue looking for a diesel, I'd be tempted on buying out of state with the help of family/friends/you guys(if you're willing), and may even be willing to pay someone's plane or train ticket home if they were willing to drive it out here. Otherwise, I'll wait a year and when I have vacation, I'll purchase elsewhere...

Thanks to everyone so far that has chipped in their 2 cents. I'm definitely glad I posted my interest/findings here.
 
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