Tensioner pulley, new ones different

[Matt Bachand]

My old tensioner pulley has flared sides and uses this large flared washer.

My new pulley has no flared sides and no accomodation for the flared washer.

I put it on w/out washer, and it works fine, and my clicking went away (can tell bearings worn in old). The belt sits flush with the backside of the pulley (smooth flat no flares), Batts charging in my camera.

Is this seem normal for a replacement pulley? This one supposedly stays cooler and lasts 10 times longer than oem. blah blah blah...

 

[Turbine Doc]

I've got similar aftermarket on mine seems to be okay, groves in accessories keep it tracking properly.

 

[Brooklyn Tow]

This is the the tensioner that does "not" have the breaker bar/handle square insert hole, correct?

I've also heard that the old tensioner is/could be a reason for the serp belt to stretch and max out the tensioner,(Many a 6.5 issue) because the spring accumulates dirt/debris and does not give and take like it should.

2 Cents

 

[bk95td]

There is a tensioner available with a breaker bar hole? I want one.

 

[packratt]

The stock one has the breaker bar hole.

 

[Tookie]

My old tensioner pulley has flared sides and uses this large flared washer.

My new pulley has no flared sides and no accomodation for the flared washer.

I put it on w/out washer, and it works fine, and my clicking went away (can tell bearings worn in old). The belt sits flush with the backside of the pulley (smooth flat no flares), Batts charging in my camera.

Is this seem normal for a replacement pulley? This one supposedly stays cooler and lasts 10 times longer than oem. blah blah blah...

I couldn't find one like the original, and I figured that it was flared
for a reason....ended up buying just a bearing and used the shop press
to change it, so I have the original pulley, with a new bearing

 

[Sunshine]

Put a new stock one in yesterday GM #15602650 (130.000 miles) it didn't have any flares on the pulley like the old one. paid $53.22. Jim Bigley suggest to shift them out at 100, 000 miles

And there was no square insert hole for a breaker bar & there wasn't on the old one either, seen them on a Hummers..but mine is for a 1995..

 

[Matt Bachand]

Put a new stock one in yesterday GM #15602650 (130.000 miles) it didn't have any flares on the pulley like the old one. paid $53.22. Jim Bigley suggest to shift them out at 100, 000 miles

And there was no square insert hole for a breaker bar & there wasn't on the old one either, seen them on a Hummers..but mine is for a 1995..

Nothing here either for breaker bar before or afters. I drove it all around this morning (-10) and no problems.

Napa p/n NBH 38006

"runs 10x cooler than factory for longer last" - Replaced at 121,000 started clicking, could hear it not smooth when i dropped belt and inspected.

It has no flares, but both pulleys on each side are flared and grooved, so i cant see it needing it.

 

[packratt]

'98 has a hole to take a 3/8 breaker bar or ratchet

 

[Yachtcare]

Hate to dredge up such an old thread, but it pertains directly to my problem......

About a month back my tensioner pulley failed. Didnt think much of it, got a "new style" without the flange at the local flaps and put it on, along with a new belt. After about two weeks the tensioner threw the belt backwards, jammed under the alternator. This morning, same deal. Checked alignment of the other pulleys, everything seems tight, alternator not wobbling etc.

Both times this happened was with a cold engine in the morning, not more than 300 feet from the backdoor. But would really hate if it happened on the highway with a load on the rear. The sudden loss of brakes and steering together is 'annoying' to say the least.

Anything else I should be looking at?(aside from getting a flanged pulley from the salvage yard, I threw the old one away not knowing better)

 

[96 OILBURNER]

You may have a problem with the tensioner itself. I have seen them bind and and not operate smoothly, which will throw a belt.

 

[bison]

Hate to dredge up such an old thread, but it pertains directly to my problem......

About a month back my tensioner pulley failed. Didnt think much of it, got a "new style" without the flange at the local flaps and put it on, along with a new belt. After about two weeks the tensioner threw the belt backwards, jammed under the alternator. This morning, same deal. Checked alignment of the other pulleys, everything seems tight, alternator not wobbling etc.

Both times this happened was with a cold engine in the morning, not more than 300 feet from the backdoor. But would really hate if it happened on the highway with a load on the rear. The sudden loss of brakes and steering together is 'annoying' to say the least.

Anything else I should be looking at?(aside from getting a flanged pulley from the salvage yard, I threw the old one away not knowing better)

Check your vacpump for rolling smootly,(if you have one that is).They can throw a belt when they jam.

 

[bison]

I just replace the brg in the tensioner pulleys,only about $10.
replacement pulleys are mostly crappy plastic these days anyway.

 

[Burning oil]

Gates has provision for 3/8" breaker bar. Stock is 1/2".
You also need to make sure the pulley is same dia. I think the dual alt pulley is the closest I have found to stock. I stoped selling just the bearing because the pulley seemed to want to walk off of it. So I recomend getting the pulley.

 

[bk95td]

Hate to dredge up such an old thread, but it pertains directly to my problem......

About a month back my tensioner pulley failed. Didnt think much of it, got a "new style" without the flange at the local flaps and put it on, along with a new belt. After about two weeks the tensioner threw the belt backwards, jammed under the alternator. This morning, same deal. Checked alignment of the other pulleys, everything seems tight, alternator not wobbling etc.

Both times this happened was with a cold engine in the morning, not more than 300 feet from the backdoor. But would really hate if it happened on the highway with a load on the rear. The sudden loss of brakes and steering together is 'annoying' to say the least.

Anything else I should be looking at?(aside from getting a flanged pulley from the salvage yard, I threw the old one away not knowing better)

If you used the same tensioner as matt, it is the wrong tensioner. 96+ has a whole different belt drive from the 95- You may be trying to use the tensioner backwards from what it was designed.
I've been running a different style dayco? tensioner on 3 engine now. No problems. Rockauto part#20089326

 

[Matt Bachand]

If you used the same tensioner as matt, it is the wrong tensioner. 96+ has a whole different belt drive from the 95- You may be trying to use the tensioner backwards from what it was designed.
I've been running a different style dayco? tensioner on 3 engine now. No problems. Rockauto part#20089326

I just changed the pulley, not the tensioner itself. FWIW My different style pulley hasn't had any noticeable effect to date.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Nothing here either for breaker bar before or afters. I drove it all around this morning (-10) and no problems.

Napa p/n NBH 38006

"runs 10x cooler than factory for longer last" - Replaced at 121,000 started clicking, could hear it not smooth when i dropped belt and inspected.

It has no flares, but both pulleys on each side are flared and grooved, so i cant see it needing it.

LOL.. I do have the breaker bar 3/8. I just havn't discovered it yet in time of this post Once I cut my 'turbo muffler' back, Then I could see it Then with Vac Pump removed, it opens up the entire pass side of the engine.

 

[buddy]

If you used the same tensioner as matt, it is the wrong tensioner. 96+ has a whole different belt drive from the 95- You may be trying to use the tensioner backwards from what it was designed.

:iagree:

It needs to release belt tension towards the passenger side, so with the bar to loosen it you pull down on drivers side.

96+ had alternator and tensioner on opposite side and it springs opposite way.

 

[jfenn]

I couldn't find one like the original, and I figured that it was flared
for a reason....ended up buying just a bearing and used the shop press
to change it, so I have the original pulley, with a new bearing

Do you recall the part number of that bearing and where you got it? I'd prefer to go that route, too. Thank you.

 

[WarWagon]

The older tensioners have a stronger spring. They have to take the compressor load from the passenger side mount compressor. The newer units do not.

So you have a spring difference as well as a pulley difference. Dealer stocks the proper old style part. Autozone does not!