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Tearing down 6.2 for extra parts

RNation

RNation

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St.Peters, MO
Hello everyone. I'm tearing down my older 6.2 motor out of my 84 suburban for extra parts. The motor when together orginally had an issue with oil (alot of it) in the cooling system but not the other way around, then later on me and my friend had the heads checked (they turned out fine but weren't tested for flatness) then we put on new head gaskets but the motor ended up haveing water in oil and oil in water. I'm thinking we did the gaskets or the re-assembly wrong.

So my question is, is there any parts I should get rid of? And is there any certain way to store certain parts for an indefinate period of time?

So far I've wrapped the crank shaft and cam shaft seperatly in shrink wrap (lots of it) after wipeing them down with some oil.

Is there a way I can check the block to see if it's any good or not? One of the theorys on the oil in water problem (the original problem) was a cracked lifter bore, if that's so then the block would be nothing more than a heavy paperweight right?
 
Store the crankshaft on it's end wire tied to keep it that way and from falling. It can bend under it's own weight laying flat. (The crank is scrap if it falls or is dropped.)

Mag the block for cracks and check both the heads and deck for flatness.
 
Thanks for the info. How should I store the block till I can find a place and afford to get it magnufluxed? It has a lot of oil caked on it so I thought that might save it from the weather, but perhaps I can spray the rest of it down with lithium grease and shrink wrap it too?

I remember talking to a guy at a machine shop around here a while back and asked him about checking the block, but he said that he didn't know of anybody around here with an apparatus that could do that. So I wonder if he just didn't know what he's talking about or if I'll have to ship it somewhere to get it checked, which would suck and probably be costly.

Pushrods and rockers and those little things get sprayed with grease and wrapped also correct?
 
The places to check on a 6.2 block are. The center main webs in the area of the outer bolt holes and the register notch where the caps fit in.

Cracks can happen in the outer bolt holes and run up towards the center of the block.
Also the main web can crack at the register fit area.

As far as oil in the water but not the other way, makes me suspicious of the oil cooler in the radiator.

Lifter bores are not known to crack on these engines.

There is not any oil passage to the heads as the oil flows up the pushrods just like most chevy v8 engines.

A number 8 cylinder crack at about the 8 oclock position when looking into the bore from the RH side with the engine upright is possible but, will not pass oil but will blow coolant out.

Did you reuse the radiator in the truck with another engine or is the rig sitting at present??

I have not seen any oil to water issues that were related to the engine itself on the 6.2/6.5

There are no oil passages that come close to water.

To long term store the parts, just grease the stuff and wrap well.

The biggy is keeping it in a place thats dry and does not see huge swings in temperature and humidity.

Grease the bore in the block as well as the main saddles and the lifter bores. Wrap it up and set it in a corner.

Box the smaller parts in some plastic storage containers (they stack well and keep stuff relatively clean)

For small parts that need to stay clean, the Zip lock freezer bags work wonderful.

Keeping such things as lifters and such, the bags are perfect.

I use the smaller 1 quart bags to store select groups of bolts and such during a rebuild.
Keeps everything right in the group that I need it in when I go to assemble stuff.

Let us know about that radiator.

Missy
 
The radiator for my truck has the oil cooler internal, I had the old one tested but the guy said he couldn't get it to leak for nothing. He did say however that since it wasn't hot when he tested it that the test isn't %100. I did get a new one though because the old one was caked bad with oil inside. After me and my buddy did the HG job though oil still got in the radiator but I'm pretty sure we did something wrong because water got in the oil as well. So I guess it's hard to say if the oil cooler was the original culprit or not.

When I had the original oil in water only problem, everyone I asked said HG's, oils cooler, water pump plate, and only 1 guy said the lifter bores but he said it was almost unheard of.
 
Missy, the spots you said to check for cracks on the block, if there is cracks there that are bad enough to be a problem (I'm thinking all crack are problematic but I don't know) would they be visible by eye? Or if I see them by looking at them then that just tells me not to waste time or money to have it fluxxed?
 
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