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Supersteer GMT400 pics comparison

schiker

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Pendleton, SC
So I bit the bullet and bought a supersteer idler body. I called Henderson 's and they recommend Moog Problem solver arms.

The idler body is filled with Amsoil synthetic grease and lubed for life. If it gets loose you tighten it up like a wheel hub and I guess repack the bearings similarly. Henderson couldn't tell me if I would need to tighten it up but said they don't usually have to or have many problem with them getting loose (famous last words from rep). Anyway the idler body looks beefier the arms are comparable and I can't tell a huge difference. One the head looks longer the other one looks like its smaller. Might be a difference in quality of internals and metal???

Last time I did this ~100K miles and 6 years plus ago I used Napa Gold parts and thought they were made by Moog. I remember asking for premium parts and going to the big Napa warehouse in town.

The old parts are painted black and the new Moog are bare cast.

Hopefully can reassemble and get new tires and alignment tomorrow morning. Suppose to be getting Michelin LTX A/T2 265/75R16. Taking off BF Goodrich All terrains 285/75R16's.
 

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The bare metal idler looks like my MOOG Pob Solvers Ive been getting. The other must be a knock off or just older design..

Need to do the idler and pitman on my 95 and this just topped my list! Mine only have 293K on them.
 
Yeah, its pricey a little over double vs the Moog Problem Solver idler body. The Supersteer idler body was $195. One plus is Henderson looks like a good company with quality in mind.

I still have the plain ole factory grey steel wheels. I would like the newer style PYO wheels but I am too conservative/cheap to spend money on better looking wheels for now.

The pitman arm gave me a hard time getting off the center link or relay rod and I did not have time to take pictures. The older Pitman arm's head looked bigger in diameter than the new Moog Problem Solver. They were about the same height. I did both arms and inner/outer tie rods all Moog Problem Solver parts except the Supersteer idler body. I put about 1/8" toe in with 2 boards and tape measure and it feels tighter and steers good even with bad outside edge worn tires. For the quick test drive I did not get the loose give in the wheel feeling going around a curve.

Off to get tires and alignment this morning.
 
Well a little longer drive to tire shop with bad tires its better but still has a slight hiccup give in a curve. But it is better and probably the tires.
 
hopefully tires and not a steering box, or a bent frame bracket.

on my pickup I took to college, there were some fun poor weather trips taken..numerous times, and I thought that my pulling hard to the right was due to some damage, but a different set of tires corrected the issue. hopefully i just knocked it out of alignment and a proper alignment is all that is needed to fix it fully.

good luck!
 
I have had more that one set of tires start handling weird and they were typically from an nonvisible slipped belt.

2 sets were 285s on stock rims. That's why I won't mount them on anything narrower than a 8" wheel. Had a couple sets do just fine though. I don't see any brand based pattern there either.

Source Unknown
 
New tires and alignment does wonders. I drove it home and it seems fine and normal. Very tight sensitive steering in a good way no noticeable pull, rut, or crown following etc. Curves seem nice and stable and controlled. I am sure my toe and alignment had caused bad tire wear and bad handling.

I am terrible about rotating and realigning as tires wear. Especially after I pick up the first nail or screw etc and have to plug/patch. I think 2 maybe 3 of them had at least one plug in them. After I write the tires off the steering and handling kind of slowly degrades and I get use to it until new tires and then it so good I have to get use to nice handling again. Every time I say this time I am going to rotate regularly then times flies and the tires get worn unevenly and it repeats.
 
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