I recently purchased a 1995 1500 Suburban. Am seeking suggestions on how or what I should do to upgrade--in order to haul a 5000lb horse trailer w/motorcycle. Is it possible to switch to a more beefed-up suspension-ie leaf springs, shocks/struts? And any suggestions on more power from a 5.7L engine...transmission...and rear end is much appreciated?
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Suggestions welcome
- Thread starter Warrior
- Start date
Will L.
Well-Known Member
The 1500 w/ 5.7 - check your door sticker because you are pushing the max capacity with it.
Capacity changes with transmission and even gear ratio and depending what you have you might max it there
If you are going to tow that much just a couple times a year and not through mountains on the hiway, you can get away with it. If you are towing that often, you bought the wrong rig. To do it safely and not have everything break down all the time you may be pouring thousands of dollars into it.
4L80e transmission in it? What gear ratio?
Leaf springs & shocks (no struts on these) are only a part of it. Brakes are my biggest concern.
Wilwood makes a brake kit that is $1,500 for front axle, and a rear disk conversion that is $1,500 for the rear axle. So there is $3,000 to get you better -not ideal stopping.
You swap to different spring kit for the rear that are heavier duty but they raise ride height. Better is begin with new stock springs because the 30 year old ones are simply tired by now and won’t perform as they should. Then get a helper spring or imo the better move is the Firestone air bag towing kit. This way you aren’t changing the handling when not towing and when you do, just air up and it will take the weight without ruining ride. Those are $500 if you do it without an on board compressor. Adding the on board compressor tacks on $$ and just depends how much you choose to spend for it.
A set of new Bilstein shocks all the way around.
The transmission- you need to tell us what you have first. But realistically, most people run what they have until is starts slipping then rebuild. Most likely the 4l60e. You can search the online builders like B&M or TCI with a triple disk converter. If you have the 4l80e (unlikely) then it’s ok as is but when rebuilding is needed there is a few upgrades to do including the converter.
Adding a secondary transmission cooler is always a good idea to extend life, get a descent one not a cheap one. Also look into a manual override switch to force the lock up of the converter for when you are on the hiway only. Until you have a lock up converter and the switch on the 4l60e- anything other than flat ground you will manually downshift to drive. This isn’t a maybe type suggestion this is how to not call a tow truck.
For adding more power to the 5.7 there is a ton of options for that. A set of descent headers with an H or X pipe then duals out the back with high flowing mufflers.
Cold air intake.
The fuel cannon is a known hiccup issue- and replacing it with the first two items of letting it breathe properly is a standard action. There are tons of options, a hint is all the mid to low range cost one suck & will be replaced in 40,000 miles or less. Buy once cry once here.
There is a ton more possible with the engine but those basics will help it a lot, and depending how tired your engine is now- you can easily be running HALF of your torque/hp rating. And those all being external means they can be reused when it’s time to do the inside of the engine. Anymore it’s almost always better to order a long block from one of the major builders than redo your original.
What my best suggestion is to you - move up to a 200-2004 2500hd suburban with the 6.0 in it. It’s a world of difference.
I regret selling my 69 Camaro, and next in line is selling my 2001 K2500hd suburban. Zero modifications were needed to tow the weight you are taking about all day long. If mountain towing only additional is the transmission cooler.
Capacity changes with transmission and even gear ratio and depending what you have you might max it there
If you are going to tow that much just a couple times a year and not through mountains on the hiway, you can get away with it. If you are towing that often, you bought the wrong rig. To do it safely and not have everything break down all the time you may be pouring thousands of dollars into it.
4L80e transmission in it? What gear ratio?
Leaf springs & shocks (no struts on these) are only a part of it. Brakes are my biggest concern.
Wilwood makes a brake kit that is $1,500 for front axle, and a rear disk conversion that is $1,500 for the rear axle. So there is $3,000 to get you better -not ideal stopping.
You swap to different spring kit for the rear that are heavier duty but they raise ride height. Better is begin with new stock springs because the 30 year old ones are simply tired by now and won’t perform as they should. Then get a helper spring or imo the better move is the Firestone air bag towing kit. This way you aren’t changing the handling when not towing and when you do, just air up and it will take the weight without ruining ride. Those are $500 if you do it without an on board compressor. Adding the on board compressor tacks on $$ and just depends how much you choose to spend for it.
A set of new Bilstein shocks all the way around.
The transmission- you need to tell us what you have first. But realistically, most people run what they have until is starts slipping then rebuild. Most likely the 4l60e. You can search the online builders like B&M or TCI with a triple disk converter. If you have the 4l80e (unlikely) then it’s ok as is but when rebuilding is needed there is a few upgrades to do including the converter.
Adding a secondary transmission cooler is always a good idea to extend life, get a descent one not a cheap one. Also look into a manual override switch to force the lock up of the converter for when you are on the hiway only. Until you have a lock up converter and the switch on the 4l60e- anything other than flat ground you will manually downshift to drive. This isn’t a maybe type suggestion this is how to not call a tow truck.
For adding more power to the 5.7 there is a ton of options for that. A set of descent headers with an H or X pipe then duals out the back with high flowing mufflers.
Cold air intake.
The fuel cannon is a known hiccup issue- and replacing it with the first two items of letting it breathe properly is a standard action. There are tons of options, a hint is all the mid to low range cost one suck & will be replaced in 40,000 miles or less. Buy once cry once here.
There is a ton more possible with the engine but those basics will help it a lot, and depending how tired your engine is now- you can easily be running HALF of your torque/hp rating. And those all being external means they can be reused when it’s time to do the inside of the engine. Anymore it’s almost always better to order a long block from one of the major builders than redo your original.
What my best suggestion is to you - move up to a 200-2004 2500hd suburban with the 6.0 in it. It’s a world of difference.
I regret selling my 69 Camaro, and next in line is selling my 2001 K2500hd suburban. Zero modifications were needed to tow the weight you are taking about all day long. If mountain towing only additional is the transmission cooler.
Last edited:
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Welcome to the forum Warrior.
Listen to what @Will L. Is saying.
I edit my post to add that statement.
I run a 1993 K1500 for quite a few years. Pulled a tandem axle heavy duty trailer with it. IIRC it was a 7,000 pound trailer, bumper pull unit.
For pulling 5,000 pounds the 1500 series should be fine, just add rear axle air bags. Thats how I got away with hauling such heavy loads on my pigup truck.
The 4L60E transmission can be reworked to handle anything that can be thrown at it. I may be mistaken but seems that I have read that they can be taken to handle 700HP. I know and hope that someone will correct that statement if it is wrong.
The 1995 utilizes what is known as the Spider Fuel Injection system. There’s a lot of controversy about that system too. I have drove a 1995, 350 and spider EFI. That thing was a beast on power compared to the 93 throttle body system that I had.
Just do the spider upgrade kit and that system should also serve You well.
The 350 will run a lot of miles if properly maintained. At or near 100,000 miles install a new timing chain/sprocket set and a new coolant pump. Watch the oil pressure, at over 200,000 I replaced the oil pump and pan gasket along with the timing chain/sprocket set again. I sold that truck at over 350,000 miles and it still was not using oil nor smoking out the exhaust.
The next owner wasnt so kind to it. Coolant pump started leaking but drugs and party was more important, he burned up the engine.
Listen to what @Will L. Is saying.
I edit my post to add that statement.
I run a 1993 K1500 for quite a few years. Pulled a tandem axle heavy duty trailer with it. IIRC it was a 7,000 pound trailer, bumper pull unit.
For pulling 5,000 pounds the 1500 series should be fine, just add rear axle air bags. Thats how I got away with hauling such heavy loads on my pigup truck.
The 4L60E transmission can be reworked to handle anything that can be thrown at it. I may be mistaken but seems that I have read that they can be taken to handle 700HP. I know and hope that someone will correct that statement if it is wrong.
The 1995 utilizes what is known as the Spider Fuel Injection system. There’s a lot of controversy about that system too. I have drove a 1995, 350 and spider EFI. That thing was a beast on power compared to the 93 throttle body system that I had.
Just do the spider upgrade kit and that system should also serve You well.
The 350 will run a lot of miles if properly maintained. At or near 100,000 miles install a new timing chain/sprocket set and a new coolant pump. Watch the oil pressure, at over 200,000 I replaced the oil pump and pan gasket along with the timing chain/sprocket set again. I sold that truck at over 350,000 miles and it still was not using oil nor smoking out the exhaust.
The next owner wasnt so kind to it. Coolant pump started leaking but drugs and party was more important, he burned up the engine.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
I don’t want to make it sound like it can’t do it.
But understand you are taking a rig that when brand new, you would be maxing it out. That would shorten the life of any rig.
Now you are trying to do it on one with 30 years and all we can guess is a quarter million miles on it…
But understand you are taking a rig that when brand new, you would be maxing it out. That would shorten the life of any rig.
Now you are trying to do it on one with 30 years and all we can guess is a quarter million miles on it…
Whaddya think about the 2500 Burb with a 454???
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
the 2500 with 454 should tow but will be a gas hog. will still need some upgrades like a trans cooler, but should come stock with a 4l80e. even better if equipped 4x4. if looking at it to buy, be sure to look at the tag on the drivers door frame and see what it's setup for stock as for weight. remember the final weight on the tag is vehicle and trailer combined.
a 3500 crew cab with a manual trans will always tow circles around an automatic too.
a 3500 crew cab with a manual trans will always tow circles around an automatic too.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Heavy 2500 will also have 8 lugs on each wheel and better brakes too. what year is it?
