nealpellecchia
Active Member
anybody find any?? my boat mechanic says that on fords a leak in the return line can bleed down the pressure and mimic a suction leak. I can still barely start it but I'm gonna miss the 49er game unless...
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anybody find any?? my boat mechanic says that on fords a leak in the return line can bleed down the pressure and mimic a suction leak. I can still barely start it but I'm gonna miss the 49er game unless...
There is suction from the tank to LP.
There is suction from the tank to LP.
I can't see a leaky return causing hard starts, it would also make a visible mess. Put a clear section of hose where the return begins at the IP and check for air bubbles.
Does the LP work?
if your OBD1 that's especially true. OBD2's have a pre prime during wait to start, OBD1's do not
I'm assuming you have a 6.5 TD, since the question was posted in the 6.5 tech library. Please fill out your signature so we can 'see' your ride!
There really aren't any suction leaks in the 6.5 system... it's all push pressure. Pressure from the LP to the IP, Pressure from the IP to the injectors, then low pressure from the injectors to the tank (return line).
The return line might develop a leak, all that should do is make a mess, shouldn't be able to affect the rest of the circuit at all.
Actually, a bad LP can cause a small siphon in the supply line.
If you have siphon effect in the fuel filter, chances are the 2 o-rings or the 3 hoses in the fuel filter bowl are bad or all of them.
Rubber parts tends to deteriorate overtime.
now that's the kind of info I wanted! alright I'll check for that. I rechecked the fuel pressure because it's hard to get a good seal from the attachment on the hose of my old tester and still I'm getting a little leakage but I think it is the lift pump that's weak more than a little fuel dribbling loosing pressure during the test. But also I'm doing the test off the drain hose and not the fuel line going into the filter. When I get it right and the test still fails I'll disconnect the the line in to the lift pump at the pump and see if it's easy to suck fuel out of it and blow into it to clean the mess off of the sock before I change the pump.
No.
But best place to take pressure is to T in just before the IP inlet
Ditto.
I have my fuel pressure gauge T'd in to the line going into the IP
so I get an accurate read on the filters and lift pump, as well as the tank intake "sock".
That's how I knew to replace the return spring in the Walbro, and now the sock is starting to clog, so I'll drop the tank and remove it.
Knowlege is power; accurate knowlege prevents mistakes.