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stock turbomaster settings?

JeffsJeep04

JeffsJeep04

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Eau Claire, WI
I have a turbomaster on my truck, the PO put it on. My truck really doesn't feel like it's got a whole lot of snot, so I'm figuring the turbo isn't putting out much boost. It's not throwing any codes. Is there anywhere that tells a rough boost for different settings? I know, get gauges, but I just can't afford them right now. They will be there eventually though. I gutted my cat and I can't hear a peep out of the turbo under any load whatsoever.
 
qwomack said:
If it's a Heath, I think they specify 2" end to end from the shouldered washers.
Click to expand...

Just to reiterate - that measurement is correct IF it's a Heath brand TM. If the PO did a DIY, then it's anybody's guess. Heath sends (or at least used to) two springs - a silver one a blue one.

Without gauges, you could try a "Max sustained" boost test to see if you are over boosting (according to stock ECM limits, anyways). Put it in 3rd gear, smash the throttle until you get to about 3,000 rpms. If you don't get a code, you should be in a safe range (assuming sensors are working correctly). This should be enough time at high boost for the ECM to either say "Everything's A-OK" or "Whoa there buddy, back it off!". Again, assuming a stock ECM.
 
Yup, this is a heath. He threw in the box for it, but I didn't notice a spring in there, just the old vacuum controlled stocker.

What I was asking about was at the "safe stock settings" that heath provides, how much boost do you typically get? I'll measure what it's set at now.
 
Do you know if you have a reflashed ECM? A stock ECM will throw a code at a lower boost psi. "Safe" stock setting is typically about 10psi on a boost gauge - I know, it makes it tough to tell w/o a gauge:smile5:. I assume your spring is silver? Go with the 2" as mentioned above (or longer) until you have more info or a gauge.
 
I put on Heaths Turbo -Master last year, & i shall write what it says in the instruction papers...

Preliminary boost adjustment for 94-95 engines

The TM should be set at a maximum of 5-7 psi when used with the factory computer programming.
You can set this boost range by adjusting the spring to a length of 2-1/2". Raising the pressure above this level may trigger an over-boost code and cause de-fueling and loss of Power, until the ignition is turned off & the engine is restarted.

For the engines running with the Max-E-Tork high output the computer programming , maximum boost pressure should be set to 14 psi.

A preliminary setting of 14 psi can be accomplished by adjusting the spring to a length of 1-3/4".

As you see this for the 95 & i only received one spring...
 
Sunshine said:
The TM should be set at a maximum of 5-7 psi when used with the factory computer programming.
Click to expand...

Because otherwise a factory ECM system may throw codes. A Boost fooler and a $35 "F" chip will prevent codes and allow higher boosts but you still won't see a performance improvement worthy of mention. A further removal of the vacuum pump will improve mileage.
 
Dan Hunter said:
Because otherwise a factory ECM system may throw codes. A Boost fooler and a $35 "F" chip will prevent codes and allow higher boosts but you still won't see a performance improvement worthy of mention. A further removal of the vacuum pump will improve mileage.
Click to expand...
How is the "F" chip going to be different then my factory F programming? Any DIY ways to do a boost fooler? Can't be much more then some resistors, right?
 
You can put a boost fooler on your truck fairly easily, but without gauges, you're taking your engine's life in your hands.

Your diagrams and instructions are found in the 6.5 Technical Library... under B for Boost Fooler.

Pay close attention to the warning about gauges!
 
JeffsJeep04 said:
How is the "F" chip going to be different then my factory F programming? Any DIY ways to do a boost fooler? Can't be much more then some resistors, right?
Click to expand...

Right as rain, sir. I didn't have a clue that moment...and many other issues as well but I'll try to stay on point. The "F" chip will only tell your ECM to not look for the EGR...something I'd blocked off...my apologies. Oh, and what 10 hp and 20 pounds torque at one point in the curve if you buy it. Mine got capped permanently when I was able to determine that the stutter I was getting around the point that my transmission should shift to OD was really the EGR valve fluttering. Good riddance.

Boost foolers, I've got some of that. It sure helps to know what year vehicle your harness is; my 94 has a barometer that also needs a resistor to tell it to effectively shut up.
 
Just a suggestion, but before you start adding things, it might do you good to find out more about what you already have. Do you have a performance ECM? If you're not sure (can you contact the PO?), I would try calling Heath with your VIN# - since you have a Heath TM, chances are that if you do have a performance ECM, it's a Heath. Besides, as stated above, without a gauge you'd only be guessing - and that's not necessarily the best path to follow.

About hearing the turbo:
I'm trying to remember back to when my truck was closer to stock, but I know I didn't hear the turbo all that well with the stock downpipe and intake. Besides, it not a loud turbo start with. I don't think I heard it all under load - the engine noise overpowered it (maybe if I really, really, really listened). However, I was able to hear it after accelerating and then slightly backing off the throttle. But again, it's not very loud.

If you really feel like you want to play with it, try shortening the spring - no more than 1/4" at a time - until the ECM starts throwing a code - then back it off.

On edit: Are you sure you don't already have a boost fooler (try to get a hold of the PO)? Cause if you do - I think you can guess what might happen if you start cranking the spring down until you get a code - which of course will never be thrown....
 
If you just pulled off the glove box, 4 screws and looked at the ECM I'm sure it would have a sticker if it were not factory. Its super easy to get to the ECM and change it. It pulls right out and wire harnesses are plenty long.

I was able to get a program to connect to OBD-1 that while I'm driving tells me everything about the engine for $200, which is much less than guages, that was from Engh Motors, but I dont know how much a scanner for yours would be.
 
JiFaire said:
You can put a boost fooler on your truck fairly easily, but without gauges, you're taking your engine's life in your hands.

Your diagrams and instructions are found in the 6.5 Technical Library... under B for Boost Fooler.

Pay close attention to the warning about gauges!
Click to expand...
I most definitely am not looking for any performance gains without gauges, I'm pretty anal about stuff like that. I was looking for ballpark on what stock boost settings with the TM are like. Would the computer set a code for boost being too low? Some weekend when I'm out fooling around with the truck, I'll go look at the ECM. I highly doubt it's upgraded though....I think the TM went on as a cheap replacement for the stock setup that was failing (complete guess).
 
It could set a code for it being too low - for example if the wastegate solenoid is failing. However, a tell tale sign of low boost is lot's of black smoke (not just a puff) out the tailpipe when you get on the throttle.

A reflashed ECM may not have a new sticker on it. I've gotten a few from Kennedy and they have never been stickered - looks just like stock.

More than likely, you're probably right about the TM as a simple replacement. Check the spring length, keep it safe until you know more. Good luck!
 
Never a bit of black smoke. On cool mornings I'll get some white smoke, but I have a feeling that's more of an injector issue then turbo. Sounds like I'm pretty well set, I'll measure it for sure though. Every time I think about it it's too dark outside or too cold ):h
 
If the white smoke clears up after a few seconds (5 to 10), don't sweat it. There are times when I get a CLOUD of white if it's cold out. My stuff is all pretty new and in good working order.
 
It basically smokes until the temp gauge starts to move. I think I just have one glow plug a little weaker then the rest or one injector that is a little drippy until it gets up to temp. No issue with power or stumbling, and it never gets a peep of smoke of any kind after that, so I'm not too worried.
 
buddy said:
If you just pulled off the glove box, 4 screws and looked at the ECM I'm sure it would have a sticker if it were not factory. Its super easy to get to the ECM and change it. It pulls right out and wire harnesses are plenty long.

I was able to get a program to connect to OBD-1 that while I'm driving tells me everything about the engine for $200, which is much less than guages, that was from Engh Motors, but I dont know how much a scanner for yours would be.
Click to expand...


Buddy FYI 97 is OBD-II no cover/chip, whole PCM gets swapped out, early Heath reflashes may not be labeled as they are now and won't look different than original PCM,

Jeff best thing to do is call Heath with your VIN, if they ever reflashed it, they will have record of it
 
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