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starter woes

Detroit Dan

Detroit Dan

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Epping NH
Tried to start the truck tonight, nothing but a shriek from the flywheel. I just replaced both batteries and the battery to starter cable last week, so I'm hoping the cable might be loose at the starter or something, but I doubt it. I know I tightened it, and if it were loose it would probably just click. Sounded like the starter gear didn't fully engage against the flywheel teeth. I think I'll either need a starter of a flywheel. After a couple of tries it sounded different, like it wasn't engaging the flywheel at all, just spinning freely.

I so don't need this right now. Last time I checked, starters are big bucks. Anyone has any suggestions for the best place to get a starter, or how to repair a bad one, I'm all ears.
 
If you hear the motor spinning and it's not engaging the drive may be blown. They are pretty easy to change. Can get them from any rebuilder. About 60$ I think but I have not bought one in a long time. NAPA used to sell them as well but I don't know about for diesels..
 
what do you mean by drive? I've replaced solenoids on sbc gasser starters before, but I've never been into the other part. Checked online and found the local parts stores have really expensive reman crap. the 'bay has new starters for around $100, but I'd have to wait a good long time to get it shipped to me.
 
The drive gear. It also has sort of a clutch in it for lack of better term. Pretty easy to change. Pull the nose off and then IIRC a snap ring and it should just slide off. I have not done one on a diesel but I think they are the same basic procedure as gassers. Again a bench test is probably a good idea first but usualy when tey won't engage and the motor/electrical is all healthy, the drive is to blame.
 
You know I may be thinking more of the Direct drive starter . Not sure if the gear red(what you have) is the same procedure but shouldn't be too much different. If it wasn't miserable out righ now I'd go look at the spare GR one I have in the shed.
 
Acesneights1 said:
The drive gear. It also has sort of a clutch in it for lack of better term. Pretty easy to change. Pull the nose off and then IIRC a snap ring and it should just slide off. I have not done one on a diesel but I think they are the same basic procedure as gassers. Again a bench test is probably a good idea first but usualy when tey won't engage and the motor/electrical is all healthy, the drive is to blame.
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You mean the bendix? I just did a search to find a pic, and well this has a pic and a brief description. http://www.ctci.org/membership/Gilsgarage/StarterBendix.htm
 
Like ace said,Starter drive shot(its got a over running clutch in there),or you stripped a couple of teeth from the ring gear.

On the gear reduction starter you'r better of to overhaul the whole starter,as it pretty much comes apart anyway to get to the starter drive.
Been there done that.

Sorry,No freeby for ye today
 
Is there not the possibility his starter snapped a bolt and the remaining attachments are so loose that it's not engaging?
 
Been a long time since I've done one but the starter rebuild kits aren't that difficult to put in. Tough to know in advance what quality the parts are. LMC sells the kits, as well as separate solenoids.

I put in a Powermaster starter to get max starting rpms to help my ~ 19:1 6.5 start in colder temps. Not cheap, but it is a quality starter & really spins a 6.5.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWM-9052/

Somewhere there's a thread Missy wrote on adding a separate Ford style solenoid that you wire so it's controlled by the stock key start/ign switch, but pulls current direct from the battery to throw the starter bendix. This takes the current load off the ign switch circuit. I did this mod also, & it appears to allow more current flow - throws the drive out to engage the flywheel notably quicker.
 
It's got a lug on the end so you can use the stock support bracket.

It's one of those parts that you don't enjoy paying for. But do enjoy how it works. Dang thing almost slows down when it fires.
 

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Acesneights1 said:
I read the PDF. I don't get the whole 11t pinion vs 10t pinion. What are they trying to say ?
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I didn't count on the old starter, but I think they just mean the Powermaster pinion/drive is 1 tooth less than the OEM.

On the .pdf, you can see they're serious about switch current capacity, wanting that circuit to be capable of 75 amps intermittent. I had a hard time picturing the OEM purple wire (may also be/have a fusible link) being able to supply that.
 
Dan Hunter said:
Is there not the possibility his starter snapped a bolt and the remaining attachments are so loose that it's not engaging?
Click to expand...

Bing bing bing bing bing!!! We have a winner!

I really dodged a bullet this time.

Got under there yesterday and saw one bolt was gone, snapped off inside, and the other one was bent from the torque of trying to start it. So I took the starter out, fussed and whined a little bit, then attempted to drill it out and extract the broke off piece. Unlike EVERY other time I've tried to use a screw extractor, this time it worked slick as butter. I credit it mostly to the Dewalt drill bits I've found, best I've ever owned, and I've tried a lot. So, took me a lot of running around on a Sunday, but finally found the right starter bolts and got it all back together. Cost me $6.18, which is slightly better than the $300 plus I was anticipating for a tow and a new starter.
Thanks for the support!
 
Detroit Dan said:
Bing bing bing bing bing!!! We have a winner!

I really dodged a bullet this time.

Got under there yesterday and saw one bolt was gone, snapped off inside, and the other one was bent from the torque of trying to start it. So I took the starter out, fussed and whined a little bit, then attempted to drill it out and extract the broke off piece. Unlike EVERY other time I've tried to use a screw extractor, this time it worked slick as butter. I credit it mostly to the Dewalt drill bits I've found, best I've ever owned, and I've tried a lot. So, took me a lot of running around on a Sunday, but finally found the right starter bolts and got it all back together. Cost me $6.18, which is slightly better than the $300 plus I was anticipating for a tow and a new starter.
Thanks for the support!
Click to expand...
I'm guessing you are talking about the dewalt bits with the pilot bit built right on the end. I loved those at first too. I bought two different packs of them. I got the medium sized on first, and then I got the biggest kit theey made. They work great, but the go dull and/or snap pretty fast. The last kit I got was from fastenal and they last way longer than the dewalts. But they were more than twice as much. I just drill a pilot first. I even do that when using a uni-bit.

If you are having a hard time removing a broken bolt or stud, my Dad taught me a trick that works great. You place a nut over the stud and weld it to it. Not only does this give you something to grip, but it heats the whole stud and if you get it while it's still hot it comes out like butter. I used this trick on an alu head where about 5 of the studs broke.
 
Great news. Every oil change should hit them with the torque wrench make sure they still snug.

I dropped my starter a few weeks ago to diagnose a ign/starter lead issue, and my brace was loose from the may install.... must check these things....
 
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