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Stanadyne PMD Change

MAGNUM SERVICES

Intelligence Guided By Experience
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Covington,Kentucky
Just wanted to let you know Stanadyne has a NEW PMD with a Higher Heat rating. The "old style" is Black and the "new style" is Gray. Stanadyne has changed the Harness end that plugs into the PMD. They changed the shape of it AND the resistor so you can't use the "old style" harness on the "new style" PMD. If you are buying a PMD from Stanadyne be sure to get the "kit" # 35976. Mine was replaced under warranty and I had to make an extra trip to Diesel Injection in Cincinnati,Oh. because the parts man did NOT give me the whole "kit" , just the PMD and I had to go back and get the correct harness to fit the "new style" PMD. He told me ALL Stanadyne PMD's made after October of 2008 have a TWO YEAR Warranty. The parts man did file a little off the resistor and it fit into the opening as it should. Keith
 
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Hey, it was good to talk to you today. Glad I could help get your truck up and running again.
For anyone that runs into the same situation you can shave down the polairity bars/tabs on the original harness connector. Then the old style harness will plug into the new PMD. Obviously you will be pluging new style gold plated pins into the old non gold plated pins. I do not know if there will be any long term problems due to the different metals.
Another option is when you buy a new style Stanadyne PMD and cable from me I will set up your new cable with the proper connectors and the correct gold plated pins.
One more option, if you bought your new style PMD from someone else I can still fix you up. Just send me your new engine harness (the one that comes with the new PMD) and I will depin the connector and make a new extention cable with the correct gold plated pins.
In about two weeks I will have the proper connector (already have the pins) for the new grey PMD.
 
The info on the 'New' Stanadyne PMD was out well over a month ago... first post I could find on it (here) was by Leroy on April 30:

http://www.dieseltowingresource.com/showthread.php?t=10706

My opinion? Stanadyne has been a Royal PITA since forever... they have repeatedly screwed us all over again and again, and made NO move to fix the problem, lower prices, or extend the warranty until DTech started getting our business.

As far as I'm concerned, there will never be another Stanadyne PMD on my truck, even IF my Heath PMD Isolator ever craps out.

In the neighborhood I grew up in, if you turn the other cheek, somebody will kick THAT one, too... Stanadyne has done nothing to deserve my forgiveness after making crappy products for the last 15 years.

Maybe I'll reconsider in 14 years or so...
 
The info on the 'New' Stanadyne PMD was out well over a month ago... first post I could find on it (here) was by Leroy on April 30:

http://www.dieseltowingresource.com/showthread.php?t=10706

My opinion? Stanadyne has been a Royal PITA since forever... they have repeatedly screwed us all over again and again, and made NO move to fix the problem, lower prices, or extend the warranty until DTech started getting our business.

As far as I'm concerned, there will never be another Stanadyne PMD on my truck, even IF my Heath PMD Isolator ever craps out.

In the neighborhood I grew up in, if you turn the other cheek, somebody will kick THAT one, too... Stanadyne has done nothing to deserve my forgiveness after making crappy products for the last 15 years.

Maybe I'll reconsider in 14 years or so...

Back at the Place dieselman65 spoke of them around the beginning of March.

Leo
 
Now - about using different metals in the connectors...

Any time you have 2 different metals conducting electricity, you set up a potential problem situation... one metal will attempt to 'steal' electrons from the other - that's what happens when a metal corrodes, or rusts... it is losing electrons and turning into an ionic compound with something else, like Oxygen, for instance. The metal that loses electrons is called the anode, and the one that gains electrons is called the cathode.

Gold doesn't lose electrons easily, so it tends not to corrode (oxidize)... that's why it is used in computer connectors, because it stays shiny and maintains a conductive surface. Aluminum (another often-used conductor), on the other hand, DOES lose electrons easily and oxidizes quickly, turning dull (getting a layer of Aluminum Oxide on it) and losing its' surface conductivity.

They attach 'sacrificial anodes' to pipelines, propeller shafts, and lately, even to vehicles to prevent electrolytic rusting... the material (usually magnesium, which loses its electrons very easily) 'sacrifices' itself by giving up electrons so the steel (or copper) doesn't have to. Every few years, you replace the anodes, and your pipeline or propeller doesn't rust.

Mating 2 different metals in a connector is poor practice; Aluminum and Copper, Zinc, or Silver would be terrible -- Gold with another metal shouldn't be too awful, because gold is so stable... but I still wouldn't do it if I had any other choice.
 
Back at the Place dieselman65 spoke of them around the beginning of March.

Leo

Yep - but he had no information and was trying everything he could to slam DTech, which led us to think he was a stanadyne dealer... he kept coming up with make-believe stories about how his 'engineer friends' had cut them apart and found inferior components, or design flaws, and about how his shop had installed hundreds of stanadynes, all above the manifold, with no problems... he also kept plugging SSDiesel as the supplier of great heatsinks.

I think he was Walt in drag....
 
Yep - but he had no information and was trying everything he could to slam DTech, which led us to think he was a stanadyne dealer... he kept coming up with make-believe stories about how his 'engineer friends' had cut them apart and found inferior components, or design flaws, and about how his shop had installed hundreds of stanadynes, all above the manifold, with no problems... he also kept plugging SSDiesel as the supplier of great heatsinks.

I think he was Walt in drag....

):h
 
Even if you re-pin a connecter harness to have have gold pins, there is still the mis-mated metals connecting to each other somewhere? Just curious, is it any different inside the insulation than inside the weatherpack?
 
Now - about using different metals in the connectors...

Any time you have 2 different metals conducting electricity, you set up a potential problem situation... one metal will attempt to 'steal' electrons from the other - that's what happens when a metal corrodes, or rusts... it is losing electrons and turning into an ionic compound with something else, like Oxygen, for instance. The metal that loses electrons is called the anode, and the one that gains electrons is called the cathode.

Gold doesn't lose electrons easily, so it tends not to corrode (oxidize)... that's why it is used in computer connectors, because it stays shiny and maintains a conductive surface. Aluminum (another often-used conductor), on the other hand, DOES lose electrons easily and oxidizes quickly, turning dull (getting a layer of Aluminum Oxide on it) and losing its' surface conductivity.

They attach 'sacrificial anodes' to pipelines, propeller shafts, and lately, even to vehicles to prevent electrolytic rusting... the material (usually magnesium, which loses its electrons very easily) 'sacrifices' itself by giving up electrons so the steel (or copper) doesn't have to. Every few years, you replace the anodes, and your pipeline or propeller doesn't rust.

Mating 2 different metals in a connector is poor practice; Aluminum and Copper, Zinc, or Silver would be terrible -- Gold with another metal shouldn't be too awful, because gold is so stable... but I still wouldn't do it if I had any other choice.

Do you think smearing some dielectric greese in the connector would help slow down the process?

Even if you re-pin a connecter harness to have have gold pins, there is still the mis-mated metals connecting to each other somewhere? Just curious, is it any different inside the insulation than inside the weatherpack?

I have ALL the gold plated pins and am just waiting on the connectors to be built for me. So all the metals will be the same when you get the new cable from me. No mismatch.
 
Even if you re-pin a connecter harness to have have gold pins, there is still the mis-mated metals connecting to each other somewhere? Just curious, is it any different inside the insulation than inside the weatherpack?

You're going to have the majority of the problem on surfaces that aren't firmly mated, matt. Soldered connections, or GOOD crimped connections, either will be OK. The ones that have problems are the ones where there is one contact touching another contact, because you can never be sure how much actual surface is 'hidden' from corroding.

That's why fuses or connectors sometimes get all fubar'd and you need to soak everything with some NalOx, AntiOx, or other contact-cleaning treatments.

Many an electrical gremlin has been banished by simply cleaning the grounds and then soaking the fusebox connections and fuses.
 
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anti-ox = Electricans best friend.

I discovered that stuff when I started as an electrical apprentice. Since Service entrance conductors are 99 times out of a 100 alluminium, we coat the whole thing in anti-ox. After I learned just what it could do, I've used it on just about EVERYTHING.

Every single connector I have taken apart or unplugged on my truck has had a glob of anti-ox lobbed into it once plugged back in. Anti ox to me is like pb blaster to diesel slug. Personally, I'll STRONGLY recommend that everybody at least carries a small bottle of it around there shop. Its inexpensive, and does wonders for disimilar metals.

Ok, I'm done with my rant. Yeah, this thing with the new standyne PMD has been out for a while and I agree with Jim, I'm never putting another standyne on my truck again. Piece of junk
 
Stanadyne can kiss my foot. I imagine the only reason they've come out with this is due to lost sales from the superior D-Tech FSD. They kept theirs intentionally weak as a cash cow, and now it's cost them. I've ordered a D-Tech, which will go in my bumper on a heatsink. The Stanadyne will stay on its own heatsink behind the back seat as a quick-change spare. I plan to always have a spare on its own heatsink. What a stupid design!
 
Stanadyne can kiss my foot. I imagine the only reason they've come out with this is due to lost sales from the superior D-Tech FSD. They kept theirs intentionally weak as a cash cow, and now it's cost them. I've ordered a D-Tech, which will go in my bumper on a heatsink. The Stanadyne will stay on its own heatsink behind the back seat as a quick-change spare. I plan to always have a spare on its own heatsink. What a stupid design!


I agree with you. Huge cash cow. Not only did they get the repeat PMD's, but with GM's warranty they also got an injector pump sale too.... I'll never give em a penny I don't have too either.
 
Whats sad is that the PMD or FSD, whatever, could have been designed to handle the job and do it well. Also the circuitry that does the job the PMD does could have and likely should have been designed into the ECM box or mounted close by in the cabin where the temp is relatively cool.

Unfortunately there was this proprietary thinking "This is ours thing" between Stanadyne and GM.

With this going on there was bound to be trouble and we the consumer have had to pay for it.

If we had kept with the DB2 style pumps (92-93 vintage) we could have had one less giant headache.

Unfortunately folks wont stand up to the EPA and tell them to shove off with their nonsense and totally iresponsible requirements.

This crap is one of the big reasons that GM. Chrysler and Ford are in trouble now.

My feelings about going way overboard on the pins and what they are made of is a bit of overkill.

The option to use the anti ox compound is a great and simple solution.

Here in Oregon I have never had an issue with most of the weatherpack connectors and it rains here, A LOT

Salty areas could certainly have more issues though.


END RANT, down off of and stows the soapbox. :D

MGW
 
I think the PMD as it is now, without a heatsync will run hot enough to smoke within minutes. Putting it in the cab or part of the PCM would not work.

There is no way they are able to make CPU's nowadays with 4 cores, and billions of transistors that are smaller than the PMD and (with a heatsync) don't overheat, but they can't make a PMD to do the same job.

I think 15 years ago, they weren't sure if it was PMD or IP related so they replaced both. Forums were just beginning, if not, and getting masses opinions weren't available like they are now.

What would happen if you wired 2 PMD's in parallel?

Is it actually a 'computer'? or is it just a 'driver' that sends a fast powerful signal based on information the computer gives it?
 
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