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Stainless Steel Brake Lines

RI Chevy Silveradoman

RI Chevy Silveradoman

At your service
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Has anyone tried these brake lines? Do they really help the feel of the pedal and prevent the softness of the pedal?

http://www.merchant-automotive.com/russellbraidedstainlesssteelbrakelines2001-09chevygmduramax.aspx

rus672440_w.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If I needed new lines or felt like they were worth it (they probably are) I'd go that route.
Check with Henry at Creatures of The Night too. He might be willing to stock that at a better deal for us TTS guys.
 
I have been told they make a night and day difference but, I have no first hand knowledge on it. They are just too much for my pay!
 
WELL WORTH THE MONEY! I put em on my BURB shortly after buying it and can't stand to drive a vehicle without them now. The only downside I have run into is with the ABS. They don't flex which means the ABS will overcompensate when it locks and unlocks as the stock rubber lines act as cushions for the breaking system. You get used to it really quickly though, and it just takes some getting used to is all. My BURB went from being able to push the pedal all the way to the floor on a dry road and the tires just starting to chirp to now I can feel it almost walk at half pedal from the brakes locking and unlocking from side to side.
 
RI Chevy Silveradoman said:
Thanks Paul. :thumbsup:

Thanks Ferm. I don't mind spending the money if it makes a big difference.
Click to expand...

Most people know how the brakes were on the earlier trucks, but with just a set of updated pads, new proportioning valve(TSB on the BURBS), and the stainless brake lines my BURB stops with less pedal pressure or movement than the 01-07 trucks do. Stopping is NOT an issue in my BURB. My wife hates it as I can throw her into the dash at will even with her seatbelt on.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Most people know how the brakes were on the earlier trucks, but with just a set of updated pads, new proportioning valve(TSB on the BURBS), and the stainless brake lines my BURB stops with less pedal pressure or movement than the 01-07 trucks do. Stopping is NOT an issue in my BURB. My wife hates it as I can throw her into the dash at will even with her seatbelt on.
Click to expand...

So you can basically melt her into the seat with the d-max, then immediately introduce her to the dash all within seconds :D
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Most people know how the brakes were on the earlier trucks, but with just a set of updated pads, new proportioning valve(TSB on the BURBS), and the stainless brake lines my BURB stops with less pedal pressure or movement than the 01-07 trucks do. Stopping is NOT an issue in my BURB. My wife hates it as I can throw her into the dash at will even with her seatbelt on.
Click to expand...

Can you explain what you are talking about with this "new proportioning valve (TSB on the Burbs)"? I'm not happy with my brakes on my 94 K2500 pickup and want to have better brakes.

Don
 
I used the SS lines on a 1995 Yukon. It did not make a big difference. The rubber lines do flex and some mush is removed going to the SS lines. The problem is the single piston calipers flexing also causing the mush feel. (Assuming no air in the system.) Upgraded dual or quad piston calipers will help.

For the K2500:
Replace the proportioning valve. They go bad and the rear brakes quit working. If you can break it loose with a brakestand (hammering the throttle and brakes while stopped) you have rear brake issues - with the 6.5 power level anyway and 4.10's.

Get the Wagner - Brake Shoes Part # : PAB655R for $102.00. These make a night and day difference in stopping power esp. towing.
 
handcannon said:
Can you explain what you are talking about with this "new proportioning valve (TSB on the Burbs)"? I'm not happy with my brakes on my 94 K2500 pickup and want to have better brakes.

Don
Click to expand...

The BURBS used a proportioning valve that limited rear brakes to 600 PSI max whereas the trucks used 800 PSI max. Basically you replace teh BURB valve in the ABS unit with a pick-up trucks valve. It made a noticeable differrence on my BURB after adding the extra weight with the DURAMAX/ALLISON up front.
 
WarWagon said:
I used the SS lines on a 1995 Yukon. It did not make a big difference. The rubber lines do flex and some mush is removed going to the SS lines. The problem is the single piston calipers flexing also causing the mush feel. (Assuming no air in the system.) Upgraded dual or quad piston calipers will help.

For the K2500:
Replace the proportioning valve. They go bad and the rear brakes quit working. If you can break it loose with a brakestand (hammering the throttle and brakes while stopped) you have rear brake issues - with the 6.5 power level anyway and 4.10's.

Get the Wagner - Brake Shoes Part # : PAB655R for $102.00. These make a night and day difference in stopping power esp. towing.
Click to expand...

I haven't tried the new linings yet as mine are still around 60% or so at almost 200K miles on em. On a YUKON you have the lighter 1500 calipers up front IIRC. I know on my BURB I only push the pedal down maybe an inch before she's stopping. I have actually warped my rotors on my BURB with the stainless lines from pushing on the brakes too hard when they were hot. For me the stainless lines were probably my single best mod I ever made to her, but even stock I had good brakes(just couldn't throw people out of there seaats before the stainless lines).
 
I have stainless lines on my 88 and it made a huge difference. I can stop that truck on a dime if need be, even with the 35s. The Dana 44s had HUGE calipers and the 14SF in the rear was larger than stock as well. I'm running a 2500 master cylinder and got lucky, my stock proportioning valve works great with that combo.
 
WarWagon said:
The problem is the single piston calipers flexing also causing the mush feel. (Assuming no air in the system.) Upgraded dual or quad piston calipers will help.

For the K2500:
Replace the proportioning valve. They go bad and the rear brakes quit working. If you can break it loose with a brakestand (hammering the throttle and brakes while stopped) you have rear brake issues - with the 6.5 power level anyway and 4.10's.

Get the Wagner - Brake Shoes Part # : PAB655R for $102.00. These make a night and day difference in stopping power esp. towing.
Click to expand...

I've looked online and asked around locally and so far haven't found anything for caliper upgrades for the K2500. I have the 8 lug which, from my searching, seems to have the same front brakes as the SRW K3500. The DRW does have different front brakes, but they appear to be the same size piston with just a thicker rotor.

I recently found the 3.5" drum brakes off a Burb. I'm thinking they will be a bolt on item but I havent tried yet. A local guy says he has a place where he can send the shoes for a special kind of lining that will make a big difference.

I'll have to go out and test the prop valve to see if it's working right.

A few years ago I put stainless flex lines on my Toyota FJ40 and did four wheel discs in place of the old drum brakes at the same time. I can't completely seperate one from the other though when I say the difference was night and day.

I already have a set of premium semi-metallic pads from CarQuest, not yet installed. So I'll check out the wagners.

Don
 
1/2 ton GM brakes are simply undersized and perhaps beyond help. The 3/4 ton systems do a better job, but, fall short of 4 wheel disc. At least I am not putting pads on every 12K like I did on the 1/2 tons. SS lines will be in the plans when the burbs needs brake lines.

FWIW: The main cause of rotor warp is a hard stop that gets the brakes almost red hot. Then sitting with the red hot pads without creeping forward. This heat treats the rotors in one place - where the hot pads sat and kept things hot while the rest of the rotor cools off. After a hard stop you have to creep forward a little bit every 10 seconds or so. I throw rotors away after this as you have to grind the hard spots out as a cutting tool, most brake lathes, have the tool bounce off the hard spots.

Setting the parking brake on hot drums will warp em as well.
 
handcannon said:
I've looked online and asked around locally and so far haven't found anything for caliper upgrades for the K2500. I have the 8 lug which, from my searching, seems to have the same front brakes as the SRW K3500. The DRW does have different front brakes, but they appear to be the same size piston with just a thicker rotor.

I recently found the 3.5" drum brakes off a Burb. I'm thinking they will be a bolt on item but I havent tried yet. A local guy says he has a place where he can send the shoes for a special kind of lining that will make a big difference.

I'll have to go out and test the prop valve to see if it's working right.

A few years ago I put stainless flex lines on my Toyota FJ40 and did four wheel discs in place of the old drum brakes at the same time. I can't completely seperate one from the other though when I say the difference was night and day.

I already have a set of premium semi-metallic pads from CarQuest, not yet installed. So I'll check out the wagners.

Don
Click to expand...

According to the GM manual ,the srw 1 tons have the thicker rotors also. Napa only lists one thickness of rotors for all 8 lug applications. They also only list one caliper for all 8 lug applications.
Slotted rotors with aggressive pads make a day and night difference also.
 
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