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Squeak noise coming from rear of truck

RI Chevy Silveradoman

RI Chevy Silveradoman

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I read a few threads in this section, but figured I would start a new one. I have a squeak coming from the rear of the truck, only first thing in the morning when I start to drive. I thought it may be the rear brakes, as I tried pumping the brakes a few times. After I go a short distance, it seems to go away for the day. Is it a U-joint? I know they are easy to replace, but how can you check to see if it is bad? I have been told to go with the U-joint without the grease fitting as they are stronger. What is the verdict on these? Should I go with the Spicer 1480 or the Spicer 1410? Or any other suggestions.
 
U-Joints are easy. My 1st dually I would change one of the three or four once every 3 months. All that holds them on is 4 bolts and two straps for each side.

Too tell if the U-Joint is bad, climb under the truck. Grab a hold of the drive shaft and shake the crap out of it in the two directions the U-Joint is suppose to move. While doing this check the U-Joints for any movement. If they move they are bad.

Another way is to drive the truck around a few miles. Then once again climb under the truck and check all U-Joints for excessive heat. When they go bad the grease is no longer under the caps and the needle bearings inside deteriorate, which causes the excess heat.

To me the first way is easier. I have had one so bad that I could hear the drive shaft sliding from one end to the other at a very slow speed. I still do not understand how I did not lose a drive shaft on that one.

I have been told and could see how and why the grease less U-Joints could be stronger. I prefer the grease able ones myself.

I have no clue what the 1410 or 1480 stuff is.
 
Good luck getting the grease gun on the greasable joints. I can't get the gun to work on mine due to the angles. Also towing has the sealed joints do better for launch shudder.
 
WarWagon said:
Good luck getting the grease gun on the greasable joints. I can't get the gun to work on mine due to the angles. Also towing has the sealed joints do better for launch shudder.
Click to expand...

If you install them correctly you can grease them. The problem I have is I almost never get them installed properly! :mad2:

I refuse to ruin a good one by taking it off to turn or flip it. Those little needles can be a pain! :hihi:
 
The best way i've found to keep the needles in place while installing new u-joints is with extra grease, if you have a greasable unit.

Get yourself set up with a clean workspace and all the tools needed to install the joint in the shaft. Remove the old joint. Next remove the grease zerk on the new joint and pull the cups, being sure you don't lose any of the needles or get any dirt in there.

Now, make sure all the needles are in place, and then fill the cups with a good grade of grease. Having the cup full of grease keeps the needles in their proper place while re-assembling the joint into the shaft. I use a vice to squeeze the cups into place since I don't have a press.

As the cups push into the shaft make sure the cross of the joint centers in the cup. As the cross is pushed into the cup the excess grease initially will squeeze out around the cup, but as the cross and cup come closer to being properly seated the rest of the excess grease will be squeezed out the empty zerk fitting hole. Now you can replace the zerk.

A little extra mess to clean up after a completed joint replacement is well worth knowing needles are in their proper place.

Don
 
No, good point though Mike. That was my next step. I didn't find or notice any excess play in the drive shaft or U-joint. I only have 73K on the clock.
 
Have you checked the parking brakes to see if the inside of the rotor hat is rusted and is causing them to drag, or possibly an axle seal leak that has gotten gear oil on the parking brake shoes? Just a couple of thoughts since you are in the salt belt.

The time I had a u-joint go bad, it made a squeak-squeak-squeak as the driveshaft turned at low speeds that got worse after it warmed up.
 
Another good point Grady. I initially started only noticing the squeak in the morning when I first used the truck. It seems to coincide with the brake pedal. I was thinking that since the humidity picked up here in the Northeast, that the rotors/drums were getting a little rust on them. As soon as I got rid of the surface rust, the issue would stop until the next day. My past experiences with U-joints were more of a chirping type of noise, that got worse not better, the more you drove. That is why I was thinking brakes more than U-joint. I have not taken the drum off to check for any oil (from seal), as I saw nothing on the rims or my driveway.
 
If you decide to take the brakes apart, you'll probably invent some new four letter words in the process. Between the caliper bracket bolts torqued to 50,000 ft/lb and held in place with permanent loctite for good measure as well as the rotors that will be rusted to the hubs, it makes for an interesting few hours.
 
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