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so yeah - i got (semi) stranded... in nashville, TN. some help with failure analysis?

VW_Lupo_TD

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Ok guys, would appreciate some input on following scenario.
wanted to post this here before I update my travel blog.

3-27: I get Diesel in Bardstown, KY, at a BP ~32gal + half a bottle of Stanadyne Performance Formula, as always and head down the backroads to cave city, all is fine, except for battery post - ran really low volts at night.
3-28: Battery post redone, almost 14V right away and started fine, got groceries and some around town driving.
3-29: en route to mammoth cave doing 30 mph at idle through the state park, the truck "stumbles" (for the lack of better words) as if it got cut off from fuel. Goes right back to normal and i park and shut it off after (as always) making sure EGT are under 300F.
after a 2 hour tour (it was awesome i am about to post pics and the story for the last couple of days) we get out and here it comes :

Problem: The Truck started extremely hard. It took me 3 cranks (each between 5-10 secs) to get it started. After it starts it more or less "stumbles" again for a few secs, then runs again just fine.
We let it run for about 10 mins, shut it off and try again - same thing. But once it ran it ran fine - so i make the call that we head for the Interstate and if we get there without trouble we head down south on I65 towards Nashville and see what happens. The only time it "stumbled" again was on the on ramp to I65 between 60 and 65 mph, but after that it ran normally all the way to nashville. We arrived at our destination and checked out a couple of campgrounds. after each time the truck started perfectly. But the first stop that took longer than 5 mins and it cooled of a bit, i almost could not get it started again and same stumbling issues after start and sometimes after starting to drive. Since i really did not want to shut it off but had to, i wanted to play it safe and I checked into a hotel as close to the Jim Reed Chevrolet dealership in Nashville and will try to be the first one there in the morning (especially driving there myself). I will omit my guesses to what it could be and wait for the pros to tell me what they think.

Demographics: tell us about your truck and your ambient conditions:

- Year: 1994
- Suburban 2500
- 4LE80
- ~203k miles
- IP was replaced by dealership under warranty at ~95k, i replaced FSD cooler with heath PMD Isolator at 160k, Heath GLE chip, Heath TM and rebuilt turbo, freshly done Injectors and glow plugs, also see attached xls
- Model: ‘‘F’ engine
- Ambient outside temp: it was colder days, but nothing freezing
- What fuel are you using? BP Diesel, the tank before that TA center
- What fuel additives are you using? Stanadyne Performance Formula, half a bottle per tank fill up
- Where are you located? right now a shitty hotel in nashville, TN

General maintenance: inspect and evaluate the condition of each. When were they last changed?
- Air filter 3-14
- Fuel filter 3-14
- CDR Valve? before my time, still looks new though
- Coolant – last flushed/replaced at ~160k
- Oil – synthetic/regular, changed at 202155miles
- Batteries – state of charge, (matched set) replaced before my time
- Battery cables and grounds just removed, cleaned and tightened a couple of times
- Glow Plugs - how many miles on them? i would say less than 2k What type? Bosch Duraterm by heath
- Injectors - last changed at ~202500 also Bosch by heath (non HP)b


History: (Describe how the problem first appeared.)
- What were you doing when it happened? like i said "idling" at 30-35 mph
- How was the truck running fine before this problem appeared? just fine
- Has this problem ever happened before? nope, maybe kind of when FSD cooler / PMD started going, but not quite like it
- Have you checked for DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes)? NO


Diagnostics:

1] Starting:
1a] Does the engine start? Y, but barley
1b] Does the engine crank over? Y
1c] Are your batteries fully charged? they show 14V when it runs
1d] Have you removed, cleaned, and tightened all battery connections? the problematic one, yes
1e] Does your Wait to Start light come on for a time? How long? No clue. Will pay attention to that next time, but i think it does.
1f] Does your glow plug light come on? Y For how long? ~6 secs, then 5 times after that (GLE programming)
1g] Do you see smoke from the exhaust while cranking? What color? Not while cranking, but afterwards a little, as always before too

2] Fuel Issues (if not running):
2a] Can you hear your lift pump working? Y, brandnew on 3-15
2b] Do you get a steady flow of fuel from the water drain (T-handle) ? Could not check that yet. but assume OK, since LP new.
2c] Loosen the inlet line from the IP – is fuel coming out (Lift Pump on)? ___________
2d] Loosen an injector line and crank the engine - does fuel come out? _________
2e] Do you hear a vacuum (hiss) when you remove the fuel cap? ___________

3] PMD / IP Issues
3a] Heath PMD Isolator
3c] Condition of grounds / ground wires to IP / PMD. Check Harness. _________
3d] PMD Make: ___________
3e] PMD Age: 5-3-08, 187k mls

4] no stalling issues

5] Running Issues
5a] On cold start, does upper rad hose get hard before engine warms up? _______
5b] Any bubbles or oil film in coolant overflow tank? _______
5c] Any white slime on oil surfaces (dipstick, CDR, oil Fill cap)? __________
5d] Excessive white smoke from exhaust on cold start? _________
5e] Excessive black smoke from exhaust under hard acceleration? __________

6] Performance Issues
6a] Do you have gauges? Y
6b] Maximum boost under load? 12PSI
6c] Have you added a performance PCM (reflash) or Chip? Heath GLE
6d] Have you changed exhaust / downpipe / crossover? Heath Super Flow and Hi Flow Cross over, almost brandnew
6e] Wastegate – mechanical or vacuum? Heath TM for GM8

7] Temperature-related Issues:
7a] Single or dual thermostats? Dual
7b] Have you replaced them lately? Manufacturer of replacements? nope, have been there for a while
7c] Have you pulled and cleaned Radiator and coolers lately? nope
7d] Have you replaced the fan clutch? nope
 

Attachments

  • Kommandofahrzeug.xls
    42 KB · Views: 13
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First thing is check LP operation. When you get it running, check for voltage on pin G, bottom left, of the OBD1 connector, that will show you if the OPS is sending power to the LP. Check the fuse on the passenger side firewall. With the truck off, push the LP fuse top, where there is a slit, onto one of the battery junction posts next to it and see if LP starts up.

Then check codes, do you know how? Just jumper pin A&B (top right) of the OBD1 connector, turn Key to ON and count SES light flashes. If you need more info let me know.
 
First thing is check LP operation. When you get it running, check for voltage on pin G, bottom left, of the OBD1 connector, that will show you if the OPS is sending power to the LP. Check the fuse on the passenger side firewall. With the truck off, push the LP fuse top, where there is a slit, onto one of the battery junction posts next to it and see if LP starts up.

Then check codes, do you know how? Just jumper pin A&B (top right) of the OBD1 connector, turn Key to ON and count SES light flashes. If you need more info let me know.

will try that tomorrow.

try the pouring water over IP trick if it helps I'd suspect pump

since the thing starts right back up when it is still hot / warm - i doubt that will help me any.
But who knows, it helped me a couple of times when the PMD on the FSD cooler died - did not know it would do any good on the IP itself also ....

sounds like a IP

yeah, i am starting the empirical failure analysis on the other end of the food chain with a fresh fuel filter and maybe glow plug controller and go up from there..... but it has crossed my mind also. will try and call the dealership that replaced the IP on warranty on 95k mls and see what they say how long that warranty was good for on replaced IPs.
 
I think oil pressure sensor. Since we are pulling ideas out of our bottoms.

Maybe a simple air leak too. I've seen that one.
 
If you are lucky the fresh fuel filter may cure it. Maybe the last fill up had some bad fuel. Leo
 
I think oil pressure sensor. Since we are pulling ideas out of our bottoms.

Maybe a simple air leak too. I've seen that one.

Thats true, I had a stumble problem on my 484 and a few weeks later I had a fuel line give out but never had any leaks.
 
This sounds suspiciously like a bad LP/OPS. Did you try bleeding fuel out of the water drain line while idling? Check the fuel pressure.

-Rob :)
 
just pulled in the dealer. he assured me he has a lot of old guys working here that might still know how to change the fuel filter on the 6.5. we will see.....
 
OMG, right as i walked back into the service area at JIM REED Chevrolet to see if they had moved my truck yet I had to witness a gentleman looking like Snoop Dogg but wearing a shop jacket trying to start my truck without even glowing it!

As i he cranks away i walk up and say "Good Morning - this would be a DIESEL truck. you turn on the ignition and wait until the GLOW PLUGS light goes off - then you start it."
He says: "What light?" "What is a glow plug?" or something of that sort. i cannot recollect the exact wording as I was FURIOUS and about to faint or die of an brain aneurysm.
I showed him how to start it with the wording "it starts like crap anyway even if you do glow it, so that really does not help". it took 2-3 short tries then started up.
Then he drove off with my truck and i have no clue where they took it. Supposedly they have different shops all throughout the city. GREAT !!!
All my shit in the truck and someone looking like Snoop Dogg and displaying a great work ethic and professionalism driving off in my Kommandofahrzeug.
what irony. If i had enough hair I would pull them out right about now.

Next time I will limp the thing to a tool / parts store and buy ALL the tools and parts that i need and do it myself and just leave the tools back - will probably cost the same and I know it is done right. I feel bad enough getting an oil change done and not doing it by myself. what was i thinking ......

may god have mercy on me and let it be fixed with a new fuel filter.

just as I hit enter, the service advisor / consultant walked up to me and showed me a piece of ? "cloth / paper / pergament" that was in my fuel filter manager ??????????? he says they will go ahead and put in a new filter and see how it runs, then we will see.
If it was on the outside (was that not the INLET? where was that picture again) then it could have just been stuck on the filter surface and would not have caused anything but provide extra filter. If that was on the OUTLET it could have swirled around there and clogged the outlet to the IP ???
cannot think clearly - still in RANT mode, need to go outside and get some fresh air.....
 
OMG, right as i walked back into the service area at JIM REED Chevrolet to see if they had moved my truck yet I had to witness a gentleman looking like Snoop Dogg but wearing a shop jacket trying to start my truck without even glowing it!

As i he cranks away i walk up and say "Good Morning - this would be a DIESEL truck. you turn on the ignition and wait until the GLOW PLUGS light goes off - then you start it."
He says: "What light?" "What is a glow plug?" or something of that sort. i cannot recollect the exact wording as I was FURIOUS and about to faint or die of an brain aneurysm.

I would have grabbed the keys from Snoop, went inside and cancelled anything that was in process and left for the nearest auto parts store after i saw that before they did any more damage and wanted to charge me $500 for a starter they burned up.

Don
 
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maybe i should have, god knows i was thinking about it.....
i was so perplexed that i did ask the service advisor if he just heard me explain to his car transfer person how to start a diesel after he drove off - he was embarrased and said "well - but he is NOT a technician." that made me fell A LOT better.
 
I have had my share of issues out on the road with dealership mechanics.

OMG some of these clowns could not get a passing grade in Junior high shop class let alone fix your car.

My guess is fuel delivery to the IP, OPS not working, filter plugged (always suspect it first)
Lift pump inoperative.

With the engine running you should be able to open the drain valve and have fuel flow out the drain hose without stalling the engine. If not the OPS or the LP is at issue.

If these items check out then I would seriously think about the PMD.

For gods sake dont let the dealership talk you into an IP at this point.


A DTech PMD is the way to go and they are less $$$$ than a factory one and they are better.

Hard starting, stumbling and such is a definate hallmark of a BAD PMD

How much time on the PMD ???

Keep us posted

MGW
 
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already has PMD isolator and new LP (on 3-15) OPS was done with the first new LP in may of 08. will run over and see what he says how far they have gotten.....
 
WAYY simple check to see if it is OPS, just start it up and check for voltage on pin G of OBD1 port, the bottom left contact. That will show you how much voltage is passing to the LP, if no voltage OPS is dead.
 
WAYY simple check to see if it is OPS, just start it up and check for voltage on pin G of OBD1 port, the bottom left contact. That will show you how much voltage is passing to the LP, if no voltage OPS is dead.

please state how much voltage i should be seeing.
 
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