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Snapped a glowplug in the head

A

Acesneights1

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:suicide:
The last one on D/S snapped off flush. No apparent compressionleakage and the truck starts fine wihtout it. Anychance it will blow out or fall in ? I was studying another one and it looks like that part that snapped off shouldn't compromise the integrity . I really don't want to pull the head for a Glow plug. It has Duratheerms and starts perfect without it. Anyone else running with a snapped one ? I seem to remember the same thing happening to my last 2000 and it was fine.
 
No. That is for removing stuck ones. The only way it's coming out is to pull the head and drill it. Unless there is a danger of it coming apart which I can't see, I'm leaving it be until I have a real reason to pull the head.
 
It starts better than any I have ever owned. New Injs and Duratherms are the bomb. 60gs suck compared to these as long as they don't swell....:eek:
 
The snapped off glow plug can be removed by welding a nut onto it. I had very good sucess doing this. I had to weld the nut on several times for the heat to get things loose. My 110 volt wire feed welder worked great for this.I do the same for broken bolts in manifolds and heads or blocks. The weld won't sick to the cast iron.
 
How did you snap it off? Were you trying to remove it or installing it? There is an insane low torque spec on those, and when I removed my old ones they came out with barely a twist of my wrist. I tightened it to like twice the torque spec and still not what I would normally feel like doing.
 
Trying to get the old one out which means it is not going to come out easily. As long as there is no risk of engine damage I would rather leave it be. If I screw with it and cause a compression leak I'm screwed and I need the truck in a week for a small trip. No time right now for a head job. Do you guys think it's safe ? I can't see how it could fall off. It's snapped flush.
BK,
I have also done that many times but this one is in a bastard spot.
 
Personally, I wouldn't run it with the glow snapped off. I'm Not shure where the heating element is held on place. Element falling off would be catostrofic.
 
x3 just leave it. You could get lucky with one of those reverse drill bits?? when you have time.
 
Could try to weld a nut to it if you have easy access.. nothing to lose really, it'll either come out or not. I've heard the welding itself can help free it.
 
yeah but it's the one all the way in the back and if I disturb it to the piint of a compression leak but still can't get it out I'm screwed. Nope, given my luck, I'm leavin it be.
 
Acesneights1 said:
yeah but it's the one all the way in the back and if I disturb it to the piint of a compression leak but still can't get it out I'm screwed. Nope, given my luck, I'm leavin it be.
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Good idea.. with your luck that will be the one WAP thats all swollen :) IT'll be fine on 7. Hell I started mine with a dead cylinder when it was 8df out, parked overnight. Fired right up. Smoked like a champion of course, but started no problem.
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
FOREVER???:confused::eek:
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Until I have a better reason to remove the head. One dead glow is not a good reason. The truck starts flawlessly without it. My old 2000 had a dead one and always started no matter what the temps. In fact it started better than my Tahoe which had all 8. I've come to the conclusion that ac delco 60gs suck. They don't start good unless you have a manual override. I have to say the truck started excellent on the WAPs as well. They claim to have fixed the swelling problem....:icon_bs:
 
I agree with you on the 60G's. But that was because 4-5 of mine burnt off. Never found the rest of them in my blown engine.
 
I have 4 60'g's that I replaced, and 4 who knows whats on the other bank, but I've never had a hard start issue. Little smoke at first when freezing out, but goes away within seconds. (Enough to fill my carport cloud)

As long as it fires up right away a few seconds of smoke in the winter doesn't bother me one bit. It might be normal.
 
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