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Sheared off starter bolt

Sinners Saint

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Houston, Texas
Anyone else ever had this happen? The outside starter bolt sheared off in the block and I had to remove it. Just want to see if its a normal occurance.
 
It's not uncommon. Usually happens from not having the bracket on the front of the starter. If you only broke a bolt you are lucky. Most times it will take a chunk of the block out with it.
 
It's not uncommon. Usually happens from not having the bracket on the front of the starter. If you only broke a bolt you are lucky. Most times it will take a chunk of the block out with it.

BK, any chance you have a set of these bolts off & handy to measure?

I'm curious is they happen to be the same dimensions as any of the off-the-shelf ARP starter bolt sets for Chevy? The 2 bolt kits run $12-13, so if one of these std cat #'s are the right bolts, they'd probably be a good peace of mind upgrade.

I attached a .pdf of the relevant page in ARP's catalog. Wouldn't think they'd mind as it's publically available on the net.
 

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You never know if they designed the bolt to break at a strength less than the block. Meaning I'd rather have a broken bolt than a broken block.

I'll stick to OEM bolts here.
 
You never know if they designed the bolt to break at a strength less than the block. Meaning I'd rather have a broken bolt than a broken block.

I'll stick to OEM bolts here.

I agree. Having snapped on, I'm checking them on oil changes and replacing them with batteries.
 
Has anyone had a failure breaking a chunk of block off w/ the rear support bracket still tightly fastened?

Reason I ask is it seems unlikely that type of block failure would happen without starter weight allowed to act as a lever arm on the block.

Could see starter bolts possibly failing either by that lever arm stress, or possibly over torquing & then a failure starting at/near the knurling/stress riser.

Could even see bolt fatigue building, but not to the point of failure at the point in time somebody figured out to put the rear brace back on. Then daily vibration causes the weakened bolt to fail later.

Not trying to be argumentative, just working to understand the true cause of these not uncommon failures.
 
starter bolt size is: M8 x 1.25 x 18

IIRC, someone had posted either here or "over there" on a nice 599 block they had gotten ahold of, but the block had a healthy chunk ripped out of it from where the starter sheared off.

I think I got lucky with mine. I had been going for a few months without that bolt when I finally realized what the rattling noise was(heat shield for starter was bouncing around during idle) I picked up a bolt from Sears of the same specs and popped it right in.
 
I am still running the bolts that came with my truck 4 years ago. 2 years of that were running without the starter brace.

Now with the brace and Factory bolts I don't worry.
 
starter bolt size is: M8 x 1.25 x 18

IIRC, someone had posted either here or "over there" on a nice 599 block they had gotten ahold of, but the block had a healthy chunk ripped out of it from where the starter sheared off.

I think I got lucky with mine. I had been going for a few months without that bolt when I finally realized what the rattling noise was(heat shield for starter was bouncing around during idle) I picked up a bolt from Sears of the same specs and popped it right in.

I understand the M8 diameter & 1.25 threadpitch, but are you sure on the 18? What unit's? Maybe 8 cm?, although that seems shorter than I recall the bolts being.
 
I'm pretty shure the starter bolts are m10x1.5x?They have to be over100mmin length. I can measure in the morning. I already have my shoes off. I have had 2 of the braces break in half. They are wimpy. This is the one I made for my 93 to clear the frost plug heater on the passenger side. It's 1x1x1/4 angle iron.
 

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The starter bolts are m10x1.5x11.5mm. I believe failure with bracket installed could be caused by fatigue in the bolts. Both from tightening and stress from the starter pulling on them. A stud with full engaugement in the threads would be better but it would need to have the knurling on it and a socket end like the head studs have for removal. A flange mount would have been a much better design.
 
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