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Sea water inside cylinders

F

FellowTraveler

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Well, I'm pulling out the injectors and glow plugs spinning the diesel to remove water in cylinder's. I was thinking about connecting my shop vac blower to the intake manifold and blow air through the diesel for say a few hours.

I'm suspecting the CAC has a crack or something because of the water getting into the 6.5 cylinder's. I've been running in deep fresh water 3' and never had water egress.

There is no water in crankcase however I will drain that and put in fresh dino oil for a short period then drain and install my AMSOIL.

I was wondering if any of you pro's have ideas as to what else I may need to do to the 6.5 in this case if anything....
 
I heard of dozers being lost in the sea and they'd pick them up with a helicopter and drop them in a fresh water lake for a few day to get rid of the salt
 
ak diesel driver said:
I heard of dozers being lost in the sea and they'd pick them up with a helicopter and drop them in a fresh water lake for a few day to get rid of the salt
Click to expand...
I have salt neutralizer I spray on the body, chassis, suspension, under body, engine bay etc., however using my water supply for rinsing is harsh too as it has chlorides mixed into the water.
 
No need to pull both injectors and glowplugs. I would just pull glow plugs. Turn it over by hand 2 full revolutions. Examine air filter, and all plumbing to intake manifold.
Check transmission, differentials, transfer case.

The sooner you can get it up to everything operating to
Operating temperature the better- it will steam off. If you dont see any water in the current oil, i would warm it up on the existing oil. Any of the reminent water ot steam will mix with current oil, then do oil change.
 
One way I get water out of the cylinders is with compressed air and a blow gun. Then have some one crank it. It gets loud and messy but it does the trick. Blowing out the cylinders works pretty well but like Will L. said get it running as soon as possible. The engine will rid its self of water by itself if it gets warm, and sooner the better.

I had some one give me a jet ski that had been out in the rain for who knows how long, i bet i blew at least 2 gallons of water out of the exhaust. I thought for sure it was ruined but ran great afterwards.
 
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Remember Automatic transmissions have clutches that use a water based glue that hold friction material to the backing plates. Get every spec of water out. If you have a drain plug in your trans pan, burp some out and check it. You won't see it on the stick until it's too late.
 
Everything in there was coated with the oil, so getting it out quick is the key. Taking my untreated truck over a salted road then cleaning it off after the trip, my frame wont rust. Its day after day long term that destroys things.
 
Well, I finally ran the 6.5 it runs like cr-p it starts right up and dose not stall. Have some tapping noise maybe rocker buttons broke.

Codes are,

P0303 MD miss-fire @ cylinder 3,

P0272 C4 balance issue @ cylinder 4,

P1216 ND fuel solenoid response slow,

U1026 ND is loss of communication.

I'll be pulling all the injector lines along w/rocker covers in the AM.

Everything electrical seems to be working, however can’t drive it like this.
 
Tinkered here and there diesel is running a little better.

In the OBD-2 device controller I have the ability to shut down each injector however all but cyl 3 have very little effect when in off position but cyl 3 in off position makes the diesel shake more.

Normal injection pump solenoid reaction time is 1.70 to 1.90 @ all rpm's, mine sits @ 1.990 idle & 2.062 @ 1.2k.

I need some help with this..........
 
Well, I'm waiting on parts and starter from Rock, as I move forward I've decided to go w/DB-2 conversion working out tracking down the parts needed to do it....

As for flood damage, I had done many mods to include encapsulating the chassis and suspension as well as sealing interior floor w/DuraBac naval deck coating, the wiring down low was sealed too and all the electric seems to be working properly but will have to wait on going for test drive to make sure...
 
Well, I'm replacing the starter motor 'a Bosch unit' local parts store wanted $244. ++ for a used rebuilt unit I went to the Rock and got a new Bosch for $170 shipped...used the discount coupon.
 
Bosch stuff is usually good.
I wish the Rock (you're too funny btw) would carry powermaster 9052 nice n cheap for us.

If your old one was working before the brine washdown of '16 - when you pull it, soak it some water an hour or so, then bench test it so the contact points are cleaner while stored as a back up incase the bosch goes kaputt and your waiting for Rock warranty.
 
Will L. said:
Bosch stuff is usually good.
I wish the Rock (you're too funny btw) would carry powermaster 9052 nice n cheap for us.

If your old one was working before the brine washdown of '16 - when you pull it, soak it some water an hour or so, then bench test it so the contact points are cleaner while stored as a back up incase the bosch goes kaputt and your waiting for Rock warranty.
Click to expand...

I plan to do just that and change out the brushes too...
 
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